"Here is a Walking Tour of Dublin for VT Members" by Tayto

Print maps and website information reference and bring them with you. Time at least 3 hours.

1. The Schoolhouse Hotel opposite Percy Place junction with Mount St Lower. Here you can have a cup of coffee or perhaps some stronger 'black stuff' i.e. Guinness before you start off.

The Schoolhouse is aptly named because guess what it was an Old School house built in 1859. It is now a nice hotel, restaurant and bar. It is a very pleasant atmosphere on the edge of the city and the prosperous business and residential area of Ballsbridge.

However this site, the nearby barracks and the houses across the road mark one of the most notable and bloody events of the 1916 rising.

2. With the Old Schoolhouse behind you go to your left and cross at the next junction (Haddington Rd) go left about 100 meteres down. On the right just past the Beggars Bush pub you will see a high grey wall with some canons outside a large gate. This was Beggars Bush Army barracks. Now its the home of the Labour Court, the Irish Print Museum and private luxury apartments.

3. Return back to the junction Northumberland Rd and Haddington Rd. Cross at this point to vie no 25. There is a small plaque on the wall of this building. Here in 1916 four Irish insurgents backed by 2 situated in the school house and a further 10 in Clanwiliam hse (now gone) inflicted heavy casualties on two poorly trained and badly led Battalions of British reinforcements coming in from Dun Laoghaire (formerly Kingstown). An interesting British perspective on this event can be read at the following web site
crich-memorial

The author gives a very human perspective on the wasteful loss of young life but perhaps gives the view that those involved in the rising were very well trained and well armed but this was not the case. In fact the rising was militarily badly executed and not supported in the way it was hoped. However events after the rising led to significant change and that is why it is so important in Irish history.

An alternative view of the same events can be found on epublican-news

Whichever perspective you take it does not take from the sense of history you can feel by standing on this bridge and contemplating the events that unfolded here in 1916.

4. Head in the direction of the bridge (Harrington Place) on the opposite side to the old schoolhouse and just before the bridge you see a memorial commemorating the events that took place here in the 1916 rising. Notice to the back of the back of the old schoolhouse a row of artisan cottages (they can make a nice photo if you want to cross back to take it !) before turning left onto Harrington Place

Cross the bridge and take a left along by the canal. This is Dublin's Grand Canal (not to be confused with the one in Venice !) It can be a good photo opportunity looking up or down the canal from this bridge.

Turn left onto Harrington Place and walk along the road overlooking the canal. (you can also walk along the path beside the canal but its only recommended when there are a reasonable number of people about)

5. As you approach the bridge Harrington Place / Herbert Place junction its worth noting the old lock keepers house on the left. On occasions if you are lucky you may still see the lock in operation if a barge is going through. Its a good point for a photo.

6. Turn right at the bridge and proceed down Mount Street Upper. In front of you is an old church known locally as 'The Peppercanister'. If you look at the copper roof you can see the resemblance to a pepper pot. Dubliners always find nicknames for things and often reflect a degree of wit e.g. bronze statue of Molly Malone on Grafton St. is the Tart with the Cart, the dead centre of Dublin is Glasnevin (3Kms north of O'Connell St) ref the cemetery there, new modern office buildings near Tara Street Dart Station look very similar to the Canary Wharf in London but as they are smaller we know them as Canary Dwarf !

As you exit the gate go to your right along the side of the square. On Sunday’s amateur artists display their works for purchase here. This can be an opportunity buy a piece from an up and coming artist that may make you a fortune in the future ! However you need a discerning eye to be successful in such a purchase – mostly its just a bit of fun on a Sunday afternoon and you might buy something to remind you of your trip to Dublin.

11 Opposite the end of Merrion Sq you will find the National Gallery of Ireland. This is an impressive building in its own right and houses a good collection of Irish and International art. The building and many of the pieces have been restored through lottery funds and grants. Entrance is free and there is an excellent café in the gallery. For up to date information on the Gallery visit
nationalgallery

12 Just up from the National Gallery is Leinster House this is where the Irish Dail (Parliament) meets. The building cannot be accessed for this side but it is an impressive building set back from the road. The building was designed by Richard Cassells and dates from 1745. It was originally a private house built on the outskirts of the town and is very much like a country manor now surrounded by the modern city of Dublin. For detailed information and description go to this web site

irish-architecture

13 This is the Natural History museum of Ireland. Personally I find it a bit depressing to see stuffed and extinct animals however it does have its place in appreciating the natural history of Ireland and the bio-diversity that we have lost as climate and modern living have taken their toll. It has been in use as a museum of natural history since 1857, which pre-dates Darwin’s Origin of the Species by 2 years. museum

14. These are Government Offices and house the Taoiseach’s (prime minister) office among other offices. The building underwent a major cleaning process in the late 90’s and it is an impressive building to photograph – perhaps from across the street at the next stop. taoiseach

15. Opposite the government offices is the Merrion Hotel. This is a top class hotel in Dublin and many visiting celebrities and dignitaries stay here. It is a luxury hotel with the feel of the old Dublin. During the winter for example you will find a peat fire burning in the lounge. There is an excellent bar in the cellar…oddly enough its called the Cellar Bar. The entrance is down steps at the left hand side at the end of the hotel. The food here is excellent and well worth a stop off…you never know you may meet a celebrity or tow here. merrionhotel

At the next junction turn right on to Merrion Row. This is good place to plan your evening meal and a few drinks. There is a small pub on the corner of Merrion Row and Merrion Street. Here you will find photos of John Major (former British Prime Minister) and other visting politicians who are tempted to sample a pint of the Black stuff in the Oireachtas (Government) local pub.

16 O'Donoghues: As you walk down Merrion Row you will pass Foleys which is a good spot for some traditional Irish music in the evenings but across the road is O’Donoghue’s which is the most famous of the Irish music pubs in the area. In the evenings any musicians who come into the pub gather just inside the door and play music. They are not a band or and organised group literally anyone who can play and who just drops in can join in. So if you are a bit of a trad singer or player then this is the place for you. Billy Connolly ( a famous Scottish comedian) used to frequent here when he was in town and was an excellent banjo and guitar player. Not many people know that he started off in treaditional music in his native Scotland before going into comedy.

Along this street are some excellent restaurants that are in the mid price to expensive range. Rubicon is on the right (roughly opposite) O’Donoghues and offers a range of interesting and vaired dishes. On the same side as O’Donoghues is the Unicorn (expensive) which is a favourite of politicians and visiting celbreties who are in the know. Lunch in the Unicorn is not quite as expensive and is worth it for seeing a few of the ‘ladies what lunch set’…ie those who are wealthy enough not to have to work during the day and have time to meet up and chat. Its mainly Italian cuisine and if you want a sampler of what their food they have a delicatessen shop which sells some of their own cuisine (their breads are great by the way !) Also on this side is Bang which is a really good modern restaurant in the mid to expensive bracket. It is quite eclectic in its cuisine with a Mediterranean feel. There is a small Bistro opening up which I think will be more in the reasonable category called Kitty’s Bistro though as I have not eaten there I can’t comment on it just yet.

Towards the end of Merrion Row there is an old Hugeunot graveyard on the right hand side. You can’t go into the graveyard but you can look through the railing at it. Its seems somewhat incongruent with the street scene that surrounds it. What’s also interesting if you observe it most locals don’t notice it as they walk past but nearly all the tourists stop to appreciate it.

As the end of Merrion Row on the right hand side is the Shelbourne hotel but this is under major renovations for the next 18 months so I suggest you cross to St Stephen’s Green.

17. St Stephens Green
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This is old Georgian park, similar to Merrion Square, but on a larger scale. It gives you a real sense of how people have used the park for centuaries. When you enter the park you should take a walk along my the pond and you will see an old bandstand.
18. Bandstands were very popular in Britain and as their name suggests were used by mainly military brass bands to entertain people on Sundays. They have now little use but as play houses for children. Still you can imagine strolling here on a Sunday afternoon and listening to the band playing.

In Stephen’s Green during the 1916 rising the park was occupied by rebel forces with Countess Markevwizc being among the most famous of the insurgents present. The rebels held the Green but made a fatal error of not occupying the Shelbourne hotel opposite. This gave the crown forces and obvious vantage point and they inflicted heavy casualties on the rebel forces. The rebels were eventually forced to retreat to the Royal College of Surgeons at the other end of the Green and ultimately to surrender.

19. Fusiliers Arch You exit St Stephen’s Green under an arch which commemorates Irish people who died fighting overseas in British Regiments. Their names are written under the arch so look up as you pass under it.

As you exit to you right here is where you can take the Dubin City Bus Tour, Viking City Splash tour or one of the horse drawn carriages (good if you have 4 people sharing cost but expensive otherwise)

Walk back along the side of Stephens Green and Cross to Dawson Street.

20. Dawson Lounge: On the left hand side you will find a doorway entrance to the Dawson Lounge..this is Dublin's smallest pub and is in the basement. Its not partiuclarly interesting other than its size.
dublinpubscene

21(A) On the right hand side of the street you will find the Mansion House which is the Lord Mayors residence in the city.
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21 B Further down you will find St Annes church. One of the patrons of this church insisted their should always be food available to the poor people of Dublin. To this day a tradition of leaving bread in a small box just inside the church door for the city's poor is still carried on.

On the left hand side of Dawson street there are some good areas to eat / bars with good night life Sam Sara, Cafe en Seine, Ron Blacks, Fitzers and its worth retruning here in the evening time. An excellent but expensive restaruant La Stampa is situated nearly opposite the Mansion House is worth boking for a special occasion or treat.

Take a right onto Molesworth Street. The frist part are governement offices mainly given over to passport issuing etc. On the left towards the end of this street is the Freemason's Hall. Often there are book sales here on Sunday afternoons and there are excelent tours available of this old building.
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22 & 23 In front of you at the end of Molesworth street is the entrance to the Dail (23) (Parliament building) which you saw earlier from Merrion Sq. To the right of this building is 22 the National Museum and Treasury of Ireland. There are many excellent exhibits and this is worth a visit.
irish-architecture

24. The National Library of Ireland On the left of the Dail is the National Library of Ireland. This building is worth entering for a view of the entrance hall.
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This is the end to this walking tour which I hope you have enjoyed. If you have any coments please e-mail to me. From the National Librar continue down Kildare Street. Across the road In front of you are railings of Trinity College Dublin. The entrance to the College is then about 200 metres to your left. There you can visit the book of Kells which I highly recommend.