Travel Tips

Where as the coast gets dry in summer, the capital of the Rif Mountain region, Tétouan, lies in the cool valley of the "Wadi Martil", just kilometres inland from the Spanish coastal enclave of Ceuta. Formerly the capital of Spanish Morocco, this pretty city has a tangible connection with Andalucía: balconies and windows framed by iron grilles, shaded squares and patios with refreshing Moorish-Andalusian fountains, white plasterwork and flamenco.

This connection is accentuated by the fact that many of the Moriscos, expelled from Spain by King Felipe IV in the 16th century, settled here. The extent to which their descendants are still nostalgic about Andalucía is borne out by the 400-year-old tradition in which the keys of homes left behind in Spain are still passed on from generation to generation, yet the locals have recreated the beautiful Hispano-Moorish architecture of old in this charming capital of northern Morocco.

Khalif's Palace
The old palace of the Khalif also served as the residence of the King's representative during the time of the Protectorate, when Tetouan was the capital of Spanish Morocco.

Gateways
Seven magnificently sculpted gateways offer not only a visual delight, but also a variety of ways to breach the age-old ramparts and enter the town from different angles.

Tetouan long had a highly deserved reputation of being the least tourist friendly of all Moroccan cities despite its architectural charm. But just like another important tourist destination, Marrakech, police has hit hard on "unfriendly guiding" — men who follow you around trying to get you into their cousin's art shop, and charging hefty tipping for simply following you around.