Travel Tips

When a group of government employees of NFA (National Food Authority) and DA (Department of Agriculture) and I headed to Sagada prepared for adventure, we had firmly implanted in our mind hiking out through the terraces and villages and exploring caves and ancient burial sites.

Five of us including a 5-year old girl, Thea, were thirsty for adventure, we were in for a bit of a fright.

In fact, Thea’s mother was surely horrified when we started to descend into the Sumaguing cave. Even Thea noticed her mother’s face turned red. While, her mother did not appreciate showing Thea’s sense of adventure and humored about walking and climbing slippery stalactite and stalagmite rocks.

Our meeting place was at Victory Liner bus station in Kamuning St., Quezon City. We departed for Tuguegarao, Cagayan Valley at 8:00 PM and didn't get to Bayombong, Nueva Vizcaya not until 3:00 AM. Our first stop and rest was the NFA staff house in Nueva Vizcaya, before resuming another long trip to Bontoc, Mt Province.

It was almost 8:00 AM when our SUV service, coming from Lagawe and courtesy of NFA provincial manager of Lagawe, arrived in NV.

On our way to Bontoc, we had breakfast in a small city of Solano, NV. I never had rice and meat for breakfast in years. Although, the food was appetizing and the service at Nena’s restaurant was fairly good. After that big meal, I dozed off in the car.

While Banaue’s terraces are best known, Bontoc is also extensively and beautifully terraced. As we resumed our Bontoc destination, I couldn’t help to feel the drastic change of the weather. It was becoming hotter and more humid. That was because we were descending from the mountains and I found out that Bontoc is nestled deep in a valley.

We arrived in the capital of Mt. Province (Bontoc) at around 1:00 PM, perfect timing for lunch at the Cable Café. I had big breakfast and snack while on the road, but I didn't know why I was still starving.

On their lunch menu, they served a plate combination, which included main and side dishes. I ordered boneless bangus (milkfish) with steamed “pechay” vegetable and menudo (sautéed mixed veges and pork) as side dishes.

After lunch, we headed off to NFA Bontoc’s office and took a nap in the staff house (courtesy of Bontoc’s NFA provincial manager). We stayed here for two nights.

When we woke up around 5:00 PM, we strolled around the town of Bontoc. The town was so special to me, because I spoke their native dialect (Ilocano). I was born and raised in Quezon City, but learned to speak Ilocano in the house. My parents are from the province of Pangasinan, which I think has three native dialects; Ilocano, Pangasinan and Bolinao.

But when we were kids, we moved to Zambales province (before migrating to US). It was where we spent our summers, when schools were out.

Nightlife in mountain areas was something you might not want to do. I didn't think there was nightlife up there, except a family night out.

We were strolling in the plaza of Bontoc and eating grilled corn on a stick. There were no bars or clubs, not that I know of.

Anyway as we were exploring the town of Bontoc, NFA staff was preparing for our dinner (which we did not expect). We were already checking out some restaurants, though. As much as we love to eat out, most of the time the Bontoc's NFA staff cooked our meals. I thought it was very nice of them to prepare us home cooking meals.

When we got back to NFA staff house/office, there was this huge prepared dinner on a long table. It was more than a "fiesta". This is the most I love and proud about being a Filipino, the hospitality is incomparable to all cultures. You would feel the sincerity and kindness from the host.

I enjoyed the food so much that sometimes even I was already full, I still wanted more.

I retired early because I needed to regain energy for our morning trip to Sagada, which is 600 meters and 18 km above Bontoc.

As the others were upstairs gearing up for our cave exploring, the three of us sneaked out and took the advantage of the early morning walk. We had a spectacular view of the sunrise as locals were preparing for their morning activities.

Being raised in a city, I found Sagada a whole different world with cool dry weather in March. And the area is riddled with caves and some interesting limestone formations, which you might find hanging coffins, perched high on a rock face.

Mountain Province is at the center of the Cordilleras, so most common activities visitors may have to expect are trekking and hiking, not only forested mountains but caves and ancient burial sites.

There are literally dozens of hikes you may do from and around. Many lodging houses sell maps that can guide you through these activities. Because many paths close to town criss-cross, you will have to ask residents for directions from time to time.

We hired (imperatively) two local guides employed by the Sagada Tourist Office. Both of our guides were incessantly complaining about our group. Speaking in Ilocano, they claimed we were too slow and took too many pictures inside the cave. And that we were the first group they ever had that took them 2 hours guiding us inside the cave.

As we were on our way into the cave and pass through the easy trail, Gigi screamed hysterically when she slipped on the rocks. Imagine falling into the hole and those spike rocks pierce into your delicate body, it was petrifying.

Because we are all thrill-seekers, we had pursuit the hardest trails digging some gold or silver (whatever!)

A picture of a happy gang relaxing and wondering how we passed through the ordeals. Ahhh, Gigi finally found the humor of this cave adventure.

Gigi seemed so happy to see the “light of the tunnel” again. And remember, “Jesus is with you” (or perhaps behind you).

The ordeal was over and we were ready to tackle another challenge. Going to Sugong – the hanging coffins – that is. To my chagrin, the burial site has nothing to offer but skulls and bones in the old wooden coffins.

Well, what else do you expect? Perhaps, a mummy that was wrapped up 500 years ago.

Your high expectations of the burial site would kill you, as I was told!

Saturday at 3:00 PM, as we were driving back to Quezon City, rain had started to pour. The mountain scenery and the roads had become invisible to our naked eyes. Everyone in the SUV was alert looking out of the window and praying the rain would taper off. And we were so lucky to have Roberto as our driver having the experience and familiarity of the mountain roads.

We made a short stop and had dinner at Lagawe NFA office around 8:00 PM.

We safely got home at 4:00 AM the following day. And I want to thank the NFA staff, especially the provincial managers of Lagawe and Bontoc. They made it everything possible.

From Solano, NV to Banaue, Mt. Province, the road was paved but expect some winding roads along the way. However, the road conditions between Banaue and Bontoc was rough 3-hour bounce trailing the narrow mountain route.

On the road, we had spectacular views of terracing and mountain life along the way.

Our first stop was the famous town of Banaue. It was nothing special, but its rice terraces were indeed both beautiful and amazing. The Ifugao must have labored for several centuries; carving terraces out of the mountains, carrying rocks, building walls to make the terraces permanent and perfecting the art of wall-building and irrigation. Most houses were built of cogon and wood, stand on stilts in village clusters among the terraces.

Banaue has numerous souvenir shops with woven goods, woodcarving, bronze and silver figurines and trinkets, and baskets.
And don't forget to buy a headdress for yourself!

One of my fond memories in this trip was being with these lovely friends again. In January 2000, we had our first trip together to the island of Palawan.

Each of them has individuality that I am fond of. They make me laugh and upset (not in order). They are smart and intelligent in their own ways. Arlene delivers joke with subtle and she cracks me up. Gigi makes me laugh as well for her life evolves in show business. And Faith, she is like the child of the group, yet, so caring and loving to all of us.

Women traditionally wear a colorful, strong fabric from bark and cotton fibers dress. As for men, they wear g-strings and blankets. But today many of the mountain people wear jeans and western attire.

If you have come to visit Mt. Province, show respect for the culture. Some have assumed that “going native” means nudity and public displays of affection, which in fact is offensive to the indigenous cultures.

In addition, many people in Mt. Province object to having their photographs taken. You have to respect their wishes or risk unpleasant consequences, ask them first before you do. You may also want to spare them some change, voluntarily. They do not request for money but it is a nice gesture from visitors to give loose change.

Considering most of them are Christians (converted by the Spaniards), many tribes still practice their ancient religion, with its pantheon of spirits and rites.

If you are traveling in the Philippines per se, drink bottled water. Mineral or bottled water is now part of Filipinos' way of living healthy. Or ascertain the water was filtered or boiled.

Throughout the mountains, when traveling in remote areas, be sure to have a companion or guide who is from the area and knows the trails and the people. For instance, Kalinga-Apayao and Abra often have tribal wars. If you plan to visit these provinces, make sure the tension in the other two has abated.

The travelers, Gigi, Faith, Thea, Faith and I, are would like to thank the NFA Provincial Managers of Lagawe and Bontoc as well as their staff for their warm welcome and hospitality.