Travel Tips

Send Photo to a Friend

Walking to an Akha Hill Trbe Village

Many people ask me about the rainy season in northern Thailand. Most people believe it rains all day and night, far from the truth. You might get a hard afternoon shower that lasts a few minutes, but, beginning around 7pm, it could rain most of the night.

Now that the rainy season is quickly upon us, places with wet, sandy beaches and cloudy, rainy skies seem less appealing. However, the culture-rich, mountainous north is at its most attractive time of year.
There is a wonderful, scenic, and peaceful place where brief afternoon rain showers are definitely an advantage. This little known gem is the community of Ban Thatorn in Mae Ai district and the Chiangmai province.

The spectacular scenery with the Mae Kok River snaking its way through the fertile Farng Valley and disappearing into tree-covered mountains, is a photographer's dream. The brief rain showers keep the air fresh and clean to offer unlimited visibility of this strikingly beautiful area. Big, puffy, white clouds decorating the mountain tops against a rich, blue sky with numerous rainbows occur only during the rainy season. Colorful hill tribe people working in corn fields set on almost vertical slopes that are surrounded by many shades of green from the lush vegetation, complete the picture.

You will be equally impressed by the hospitality and friendliness of the Thatorn people. The area is a unique cultural mixture of Thai, Chinese, and hill tribe people who welcome western visitors, but do not change traditions to please them.

Send Photo to a Friend

A Buddha Statue at Wat Thatorn Temple

The first place to visit is Wat Thatorn. This is where I lived for 2 years teaching Monks and Novices English. The temple grounds, consisting of over 400 rai of land, are famous for their large Buddha statues that overlook the town. The breath-taking vistas from the upper temple grounds are unmatched anywhere in Thailand. The temple is a perfect place for meditation and study because of the quiet, tree-covered grounds and flower gardens. Contrary to popular belief, heavy rain showers only happen at night. Daytime showers occur only on the mountain tops. Between 5 and 7pm, the skies open up with torrent rain. These cool evening rains make it excellent for sleeping. The mornings are clean and clear with spectacular sun rises.

A popular mode of transportation in the area is a bicycle. The paved country road, which winds along the river and through mountain canyons, is easy by bike. It’s possible to enjoy a hot spring bath and visit the Akha, Lahu, Yao, Lisu, Karen, and Shan hill tribe villages in one day. Guest houses are located in a Karen and Lisu village for those wishing to stay with the hill tribe people of the area.
October through December is the best time of year for trekking. No need to worry about getting wet from brief mountain showers, as your dry clothes are never far away at the guest house. Treks can last from a few hours to several days, returning to the Lisu village or sleeping in a house built in the jungle or in a different hill tribe village.

The cool season is also the time of year for bamboo rafting from Baan Thatorn to Chiangrai. The rain adds excitement and adventure to the beautiful Mae Kok river. The many rapids that seem a mere ripple during the dry season become white water thrills. The rafts are large, well built, and covered, yet carefully designed to easily navigate the swift, narrow rapids. Two experienced raft men guide you on this exciting journey packed with beautiful scenery, colorful hill tribe villages, and friendly people.

Send Photo to a Friend

The view of Thatorn from Wat Thatorn Temple

Baan Thatorn is regarded in most guide books only as a quick stopover before traveling to Chiangrai by a long-tail boat. Most visitors stay only a few hours waiting for the boat to depart at 12:30pm to Chiangrai. The few that do stay in the area all comment that the Thatorn area is the highlight of their Thailand journey. They are impressed with the friendliness of the people and the lack of commercialism found in the heavily visited tourist area. Trekking seems to be the most popular attraction, and the groups are small, consisting of two to four persons. Some rules and restrictions apply to maintain village harmony, custom, and tradition. The Thatorn area has much to offer the visitor in the way of accommodations. They have inexpensive guest houses, lush garden resorts, and everything in between.

In summary, Thatorn is a wonderful place - a quiet place that believes in keeping its culture intact. It enjoys western visitors but does not change traditions to please them. Because of the few visitors who stay in the area, the hill tribe people are shy but friendly, so making friends is easy. Talk with them, smile with them, and enjoy their hospitality and friendship. Here you can experience a way of life that is lost in present-day Thailand.