 Lady_Mystique's Paris Travelogues | | | |
|
| Page Views: 4,010 Last Visit to Paris: - | Parisians: Just like the rest of us by Lady_Mystique - last update: Aug 31, 2006 |
Excerpts from Martin O'Brien ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
.....We've heard the story a hundred times. We should know by now. But of course we never learn.
A couple of tourists are sitting in a brasserie on the Boulevard-St-Germain and their waiter is sullen, slow and brings the wrong order. They try to explain the problem but he seems unwilling to understand. Back home, they delight in entertaining friends with tales of the waiter's rudeness and incompetence, maybe even extending the experience to include every Parisian whose path they had the misfortune to cross.
But look at it another way. Their waiter has been on his feet for six hours and is coming to the end of an eight-hour shift. The brasserie is hot, humming and his horse just came in last at the Longchamp racetrack. The étrangers (outsiders) have flicked their fingers, asked for "Deux cafés, Garcon," and then complained when their order arrived with no milk. In any city, anywhere in the world, it would be a very patient waiter who would tolerate being called 'boy', and then appear forgiving because his customers got their order wrong. And when these same customers stroll off without leaving a tip, you really can't blame him for being just a tad unfriendly when the next étrangers take a table.
And the moral of this story? Just remember that Parisians are like the rest of us. In the City of Light, as with anywhere in the world, good manners, common sense and a little bit of local knowledge go a long way. So it's Monsieur, not Garcon; it's café aux lait unless you want your coffee black; and never, ever flick your fingers at a waiter. You wouldn't do it in London, so don't do it in Paris. It'll make life a lot easier for all the étrangers who come after you.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
| Somewhere on a street in Paris |
You can't blame Parisians. And you certainly won't change them. If only because the city they live in just happens to be one of the most beautiful, the most stylish and the most romantic in the world, a city that has survived remarkably intact after centuries of war, occupation and revolution. The names alone are enough to send a warm glow coursing through the blood – Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, Rive Gauche, Montmartre, Champs Elysées (even if it isn't exactly the Elysian Fields), Boulevard Saint Germain, Montparnasse, Notre Dame. And, whether we like it or not, it's all theirs! The tree-lined boulevards, the corner cafés, the river and quais, the bustling street markets, the chic shops, the food, the wine. All of it... If you're Parisian you just can't help yourself. |
There are those who'll insist that the Parisian's celebrated disdain for us is down to history – a simmering, slow-burn mutual hostility that's existed ever since English archers loosed their arrows over the battlefields of Agincourt and Crécy and gave the French the first 'two fingers' salute (the fingers used to draw back the bow). And Parisians are the distillation of everything French.
Others will tell you that language is the root of the problem, our shared inability – or unwillingness – to communicate. There's not much we can do about Agincourt and Crécy, but it's worth remembering that a little french goes a long way. Even in Paris. Try to speak their language and the chances are Parisians will be charmed and flattered and make every effort to be helpful – even trying a little English of their own to make it easier for you (it's a regrettable – and shameful – fact that more Parisians speak better English than we speak French). And should you feel hesitant about trying out your school-book phrases, remember what a Parisian friend once told me: "An Englishman trying to speak french sounds as sexy as a Parisian (Note the Parisian) trying to speak English." And we all know how good that sounds. |  | | Sign outside Parisian home |
|
| | For those fortunate enough to be born – or to live – within fifty kilometres of Notre Dame Cathedral (France's 'Ground Zero'), 'Parisian' is a label worn with pride. Which frequently – and sometimes intentionally – comes across as a lofty superiority towards anyone not similarly blessed. But don't take it personally. Even their fellow countrymen – those unfortunate provincaux who live outside that invisible cordon Parisien – will suffer the same treatment.
But this hauteur is not an exclusively Parisian trait. It's the same with every other city-dweller around the world. The hauteur of the insider. Because Parisians know where to shop, where to eat, where to get the best bread, and which seats to book at the Opéra, they have an immediate advantage over everyone else. And, like true poker players, they play their hand with care.
On one of my first trips to the city, I asked an acquaintance for a restaurant recommendation in Montmartre. I noted the name, booked a table and was surprised to find lukewarm food and chilly service. Two weeks later I found another restaurant further down the street – smaller, more anonymous – and who should be there but my acquaintance. When he recognised me, he raised his glass. I'd passed the test. I'd learnt – and he'd taught me – something useful about his city. You find your own Paris – don't expect it to be handed to you on a plate. |
After even the shortest acquaintance, it's clear that Paris is an easy city to love, and be proud of – its stately boulevards, its glorious parks and gardens, its grands palais and grands projets. But Parisians are still a demanding lot. An English friend who visits Paris frequently, raves about the city's Metro system. "Two minutes per stop, five minutes for a change. And so clean." Another friend, however, is not so certain: "But it could be so much better, n'est-ce-pas?" But then she is Parisian – born in Montparnasse. And for Parisians, sometimes even the best is never quite good enough.
For some people, the lure of Lutece (the old name for Paris) becomes so beguiling, so intoxicting they move in – buying or renting apartments, preferably with a good rooftop view and hopefully close to a local market. Those who have made the move will boast about low rents, cheap wine and the way the streets are hosed clean each night. How civilized it all is, how friendly. Even if, in the same breath, they start moaning about the size of their apartment, or the traffic, or the curtain-twitching concierge with lipstick the colour of the skirts she used to wear, or the fact that there's no lift to their fifth-floor atelier.
Even for an outsider, you see, it doesn't take long to become Parisian. | | |
> Add to your Custom Travel Guide [What's This?]
| Lady_Mystique's Paris Travelogues | | | |
|
 Comments for Lady_Mystique about Paris | | | | |
hunterV Sat Oct 17, 2009 19:51 UTC
Hello, Maria Annastasia! Thanks for your wonderful story about your favorite city! ><><>< | nyperose Sat Sep 20, 2008 05:56 UTC
Splendide page sur Paris! J'adore la ville lumière:-D | Herkbert Wed Sep 3, 2008 23:32 UTC
Maria.. you captured my favorite picture for your main pic. I have that shot but alas, it was during the day. I am hoping to try again when we return to Paris in December. Loved your tips and pics.. Tom | Nemorino Wed Sep 3, 2008 23:05 UTC
You've added dozens of fine new tips and updates to this page since I last stopped by, which was on April 2, 2006. Again I enjoyed reading your highly literate and entertaining (and informative!) travelogues and tips, with a nice personal touch. |
|
|
email me
add as friend
