Travel Tips

Morning light on these east facing cliffs of South Ronaldsay in the Orkney Islands of Scotland.

The best light is early morning as the sun rises on the eastern horizon, lighting the water and pale sky, warming the rock and easing the birds into another day.

South Ronaldsay is the most southerly of the Orkney Islands, just a few miles across the Pentland Firth from the Scottish Mainland. It is but a short ferry ride across this sea to the unspoilt charm and coastal ecology of the Orkneys.

The cliffs and sea below the Tomb of the Eagles.

Now tell me they didn't appreciate geometry.

Tomb of the Eagles is a 5000 year old stone age chamber perched above these rocky cliffs, like a church and landmark and ancestral claim all in one. No visitor arriving by sea (the only way back then) could fail to miss this symbol of civilisation and society.

A beautiful place to rest your weary bones - I understand if people wanted to be laid to rest here.

The tomb had, in addition to many human remains, lots of Sea Eagle bones - hence the name. Possibly a totem of the tribe / community/

The view of the Orkney Islands form the Scottish mainland.

On a good day it looks ok - but the currents are dangerous.

It is only a half hour sailing - and in past times the gap would have been closer still but as sea levels have risen (post glacial melt) so lands have been lost. Small islands used as stopping points across this fast flowing tidal race are now sumberged, making nasty "skerries" which all too easily used to snarl unwary ships - a treacherous water.

Lighthouses were built and locals used to pilot ships through the waters - so nowadays there isn't even a glimmer of risk or "travel". Not that I mind but imagine crossing this way in a skin boat many thousands of years ago, searching for a new land to farm - and finding it! The Orkney Islands!

Stone houses huddle around an Iron Age broch tower in the most beautiful location.

You can see why they lived here, with it farm land, sheltered bay, great fishing and views to sigh for.

This place is fabulous. Unlike the overly busy and overly protected Skara Brae, here you can still walk amongst the stones, inside the Broch, at your leisure. for how much longer I do not know - as they will beceome ever more popular, and the less you can touch real old stones like this the more they lure people.

That is the Orkney Islands for you!

I have shown you the cliffs and inside, so now here is the entrance to the tomb. The square tunnel is about 2' 6" high, just enough to kneel along.

Again you can have this all to yourself - and well worth spending time here - as much for the view and mood of the location as for the age of the tomb itself.

All the artifacts are in the museum you will have to pass through before walking alone to the cliff. Don't miss out the cliff top walk back - surprisingly good!

So, that is the Tomb of the Eagles, Orkney Islands in Scotland for you.
So much more than you expect - so much more than just Scotland.

In the quiet of the afternoon, this cat took its time fishing out dead animal bits from the front of this car!

Stromness is a sea harbour of old - I guess cats are part of the landscape! very friendly they are too.

I walked along the busiest street in Stromness and nothing seemed to disturb this cat, as there was nothing happening.

A couple of minutes later, as I walked back, the cat was still there, in the exact same sleepy pose ...

... except it had turned around completely, now facing the other way.

Scared for my sanity, I took this picture to remind me.

Journeying back to Scotland from Stromness takes you out past Hoy, its giant cliffs and sea stacks.

As the ferry leaves the shelter of Hamnavoe harbour and noses out into the full Atlantic waters, it rolls and yaws as the heavy swell crashes in. A bit of a rollercoaster ride home - so Rachel chose to rest, while I watched the beam from a lighthouse lurch all across the window.

Usually, the crossing is smooth but when there is a storm blowing you are glad this modern ferry is so huge to ride out the waves safely. Kind of fun too, a real adventure and luxury travel.

The sailing takes a scenic route, not the shortest, but this new supper ferry has shaved 30 minutes off the sailing time - it now takes 90 minutes from Scrabster (by Thurso, Scottish mainland) to Stromness on the Orkney Islands (area called West mainland, can be confusing but the biggest Orkney Island is called "Mainland").

There is an excellent cafe / restaurant on board, so a good opportunity to eat while you sail. Sleeping is another option - as Rachel shows ;-)
but for me ferries are still exciting, even now!