"MEA-SHEARIM" Jerusalem Travelogue by talmid

Mea-Shearim (and nearby ultra-orthodox neighborhoods) is an extraordinary place to see the style of life of the ultra-orthodox Jews (Harediim, in Hebrew), that has been preserved for centuries since the middle Ages almost without any significant change. The ultra-orthodox Jews do not accept the modern ways of life, and they regard them as evil. No internet, computers or even televisions exist in this neighborhood. It is a place, where time does not pass by. However, useful devices such as telephones (even cell phones!) and radios have found a place in the daily life of the Harediim.
You can visit Mea-Shearim and the nearby ultra-orthodox neighborhoods as a tourist, but you must follow certain basic rules; the most important, show respect for their beliefs and customs. It is a general rule that males must wear a skullcap (kippa, in Hebrew), or any other kind of hat. Both men and women must dress modestly, and do not visit there in large groups (2 persons maximum). Remember that Mea-Shearim is a residential area, not a museum. Before taking any picture of the local people, ask for authorization; it is somewhat offensive to regard people as if they were pieces in a museum. Though the neighborhood looks shabby and somehow scary (even more if you have heard the urban legends about extremist Jews throwing stones to people who do not share their beliefs), it is quite interesting and full of life. For a comprehensive guide to walk around Mea-Shearim, take a look here.

Anti-Zionism in Mea-Shearim

Mea-Shearim is the home of the members of Neturai-Karta (Guardians of the City), an extremist jewish sect founded in 1935. They opposed any involvement in the Zionist movement and they have never recognized Israel as a proper Jewish state. They believe that a Jewish state can only be established by the Messiah (Mashiakh, in Hebrew) and that it is illegal to retake the Holy Land by force of arms. Furthermore, they consider Zionism to be an atheist ideology. They strongly emphasize that they do not want any form of confrontation with the Arab people, and blame the Zionists for the wars fought in the region since the creation of Israel. Neturei-Karta also accuses the Zionists of being responsible for the many lives lost during the Holocaust. They refuse to pay taxes and to serve in the army.

Another entrance to Mea-Shearim

The dress code inside Mea-Shearim is strictly observed, though sometimes the rules are more moderate. For example, my friend was wearing shorts, and they allowed us in the neighborhood. In any case, always ask for permission; if you are not allowed to go into Mea-Shearim with the clothes you are wearing at that moment, you should better leave. Men should cover their heads, as well as married women. Women should wear long skirts and long sleeves blouses. Anyways, at the entrance of all ultra-orthodox neighborhoods you will be warned not to enter in immodest dress.

Street scene inside Mea-Shearim

The residents of Mea Shearim live in complete poverty. The houses are very small, airless, and old. The houses are built close together to accommodate for the fast growth of the community because many families have over a dozen children. Thus, the people have little privacy. In a very small area resembling the old ghettos of medieval Europe (Shtetl, in Yiddish), you will find dozens of synagogues (Batei Ha'knesset, in Hebrew) and religious schools (Yeshivot, in Hebrew).

Mea-Shearim street few minutes before the Shabbat

Motorists are not allowed to drive on Shabbat through the streets of the ultra-orthodox neighborhoods. Any desecration of the jewish Shabbat might be met with shouting and in some cases even violence such as stoning. This fact has caused severe clashes between secular and religious Jews in Israel.

An ultra-orthodox boy near Mea-Shearim

Most men in Mea-Shearim and ultra-orthodox neighborhoods are disciples (Talmidei Ha'khahamim, in Hebrew) of wise rabbis since an early age. They devote their lives to full-time religious studies and worship, while their wives raise large families.

Children near Mea-Shearim

Birth control is strictly forbidden among ultra-orthodox Jews. Thus you will see many children in their neighborhoods. Children are raised in a way that contact with the outside world is minimized. Children spend most of their time in school, where they learn only religion.

Children near Mea-Shearim

Though most of the residents of Mea-Shearim speak Hebrew, the most radical sects speak only Yiddish, a German-Jewish language, in their daily lives. They refuse to speak Hebrew, one of the official languages of Israel. They view it as a sacred tongue, only for prayer and religion learning. Many people have the idea that Yiddish is spoken only by old people and even there are some that think that Yiddish is a dead language, but in Mea-Shearim and nearby places you can hear children speaking this singular language.