Travel Tips

The “Kumayri” Historic District, an open air museum with over 1,000 18th and 19th century buildings, is the only place in Armenia to see an authentic historic Armenian city. Nearly all the buildings in the Kumayri District have survived two major earthquakes – in 1926 and 1988 – and quite a number of buildings show signs of damage from both! But because of the sheer number of buildings, and the efforts made to completely restore some of the most important ones, the Kumayri District leaves most visitors with a strong impression of the city’s romantic past as a great center of Armenian culture, a major outpost of the Russian Empire, and a thriving center of trade where rich Armenian families built lavish mansions and founded great churches and cathedrals.

The Kumayri historic district lies at the core of present-day Gyumri, Armenia. Over the years, Armenia's second largest city has been named Kumayri, Gyumri, Alexandrapol, Leninakan, then briefly Kumayri again and now Gyumri. Archeological excavations have shown that the area has been populated since at least the third millennium BC. Numerous dwelling places, graves and settlements have been found. The first recorded mention of Kumayri is from 773 and describes the revolt against Arab domination led by Artavazd Mamikonyan that resulted in a revival of Armenian statehood. Later, during and after the reign of Bagratids, Kumayri developed into a well-built modern town that was a center of commerce for the region.
The Kumayri Historic District covers an area of about 1000 hectares and over 1600 buildings and monuments of historic significance, including the ho-mes of important Armenian cultural figures and wealthy families from the pre-Soviet period, and several churches, including a Russian chapel. Much of the historic district suffered from the 1988 earthquake but the basic fabric remains intact and most of the damaged buildings are restorable.

As you arrive at the Sev Ghul, you will see the colossal statue of "Mother Armenia" on an adjacent hill. Beyond the statue lies the Turkish border. In good weather, villages in Turkey are visible in the distance. Gyumri was annexed to The Russian Empire after the last Russo-Turkish war in the 1820s. The city was a significant military foothold for Russia and in the 1830s, plans were drawn up for massive fortifications, including the Sev Ghul. The fortress, heavily armed, had three entrances: from the Yerevan, Kars and Akhltskha Roads. In case of a siege, the fortress site could accommodate 15,000 soldiers and officers. At present, the 102nd military division of the Russian Federation is stationed here.

This ritual Russian Orthodox structure, used in earlier times in conjunction with funeral rites, is known as the "Plplan Zham" (Shimmering Chapel) because of its silver colored reflective roof. The chapel was built 1879-80. A Russian military cemetery was adjacent until it was replaced by a children's resort in the 1950s. The church is located at the intersection of Nalbandyan and Teryan Streets.
In order to form a complete picture of the old city, walk down Ajemyan St. (15th Street). Most of the houses are single story black tuff, architecturally typical of the period. You°ll pass by The Yuzbashyan Houses (3) on your right on the way from the Russian Chapel to the Central Park. The Yuzbashyans were well-known upper class merchants in Alexandrapol. The grouping consisted of the Yuzbashyans' mansion and an adjacent rental section, which was damaged in the 1988 earthquake. The Central Park is only a few steps from here.

Gyumri's Central Park was founded in the 1920s on the site of the old city cemetery. The park offers sweeping views of the city to the south, east and west. Amusement rides, vendors and a cafe make the Park a good place to take a break before you continue on your tour. Look for the old theater building, located at one of the Park's entrances, where in 1913, the first Armenian opera "Anush" premiered, with composer Armen Tigranyan conducting. The theater is on the site of an earlier theater, where in 1861 an amateur group inaugurated a rebirth of Armenian performance art in Gyumri.

The Pedagogical Institute located across the street from the Central Park's main entrance, was built at the end of the 19th century as a business college. At the time, it was one of the world's first institutions of higher learning dedicated solely to business, and was renowned all over the Transcaucasus for its high educational standards. During Soviet times, the building became a Teacher's College, but it was severely damaged in the 1988 earthquake. Currently, reconstruction is underway by The Gyumri Pedagogical Institute, which will re-occupy the building once it is completed.
Walk past the Pedagogical Institute building going north along Ajemyan Street. You will arrive at Gyumri's oldest manufacturing site - The Gyumri Brewery - and the "Poloz Mukuch" restaurant. Poloz Mukuch, named for a beloved Gyumri folk humorist, was built in the 1860s as a small inn and later sold to the brewery. Poloz Mukuch has distinctive interior and exterior architecture and a hospitable staff - a good place to stop for refreshments or a meal along your tour. You may also want to avail yourself of its clean rest rooms (don't forget to ask permission).
Directly across from Poloz Mukuch is the old Gyumri brewery, built in 1895 by the upper class merchant Tsaghikyan. The brewery functioned until 1982. Renovation is now in progress.
Continue north along Ajemyan Street past Poloz Mukuch and the Brewery and turn right at Rustaveli Street (14th Street).

St. Nishan Apostolic Church (Surp Nishan) was built in 1870. The structure was used for other purposes during the Soviet period, but was reconsecrated in 2001 in conjunction with the 1700th anniversary of the adoption of Christianity in Armenia. The renovation of this lovely structure, whose domes were a distinctive feature of turn-of-the-century Gyumri, is nearly complete.
Continue along Rustaveli Street to Shahumyan Street, and turn right on Shahumyan Street. At Shahumyan Street, you will see the old Gyumri house that is now slated to be restored and used as the Mher Mkrtchyan Museum (Mkrtchyan was a well-known actor from Gyumri). Continuing along Shahumyan Street toward Freedom Square (Central Square), look for the newly restored Avetik Isahakyan Home and Museum. Here you can stop in and get acquainted with the great poet's life and work. Isahakyan was a 19th Century poet born in Gyumri who wrote about Gyumri and the Shirak region.
Next door, at the intersection of Gorky and Shahumyan Streets, is the Hovhanness Shiraz Home and Museum. Both the Isahakyan and Shiraz Museums are excellent examples of turn-of-the-century architecture, and they also provide a feel for the rich cultural life that prevailed in Gyumri during that period.

The Gyumri Restaurant is across Gorky Street and to the left from the Shiraz Museum. The restaurant is located in a picturesque but dilapidated courtyard typical of old Gyumri. The restaurant's vaulted ceilings and distinctive stonework offer a remarkably well-preserved example of interior architecture. Many visitors find that the space calls to mind a dungeon, and it actually did serve as a prison for decades during the Soviet period.

Continue along Gorky Street to the corner of Abovyan Street, where you will see the Aesthetics Education Center where Gyumri's gifted children develop their talents in music and the arts. The Aesthetics Education Center is located in an 1880s building in the former commercial section of the city. Before the 1988 earthquake, historic Abovyan Street was a joyous promenade for the youth of Gyumri - a wonderful thoroughfare where the city's rich architectural and historic heritage formed a backdrop for a vibrant present. Efforts are now underway to restore Abovyan Street to its former glory.
One of the buildings being reconstructed is The Raphaelyan House, built in the 1880s by the wealthy family of that name as a rental apartment building. Later, the building became the Paris Hotel, and during the Soviet period, it served as a maternity hospital. Currently, the building is being reconstructed by its private owners.