Travel Tips

Of course, I know that YOU know that Jerusalem is the touchstone of the world's three biggest monotheistic religions - so I'll spare us the history lesson here.

Some people like Jerusalem for what it represents, others dislike it for the same reason.

So what is that reason, exactly?

A much harder riddle to solve than that of the Sphynx, and infinitely more provocative and controversial.

I've figured out the riddle of the Sphynx.

But I can't tell you how many angels can dance on the head of a pin - and I don't think I can answer that troubling question, above.

I'm hoping a few more trips to Jerusalem in my lifetime, will help me along the path toward a deeper insight, if not the answer.

For now, I'll have to settle with that.

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The first time I saw the Western Wall was under a full moon, it was hauntingly beautiful and I was moved by everything it represents. The second time I saw it was by day, and I was kind of surprised to be shown to the "women's side" on the right (notice the division). I stood and said my own prayers for a while, gradually becoming aware of soft crying. I looked up and some of the women were indeed sobbing.

"Hence, the Wailing Wall", I thought to myself....

Thoughts of "Grand Wizard" meets the "Grim Reaper" crossed my mind when I first saw this person...but there I was in the Armenian Quarter of the Old City - and lo and behold, it was indeed an Armenian priest.

I soon learned that the old walled city is divided into four quarters: the Christian Quarter, the Armenian Quarter, the Jewish Quarter, and the Muslim Quarter.

I spent about three weeks staying with friends who live in the Christian Quarter. It was tough navegating the narrow streets that twist and turn throughout the Old City, but after a few days, I was getting around pretty well. I've heard all kinds of comments about how it can be dangerous here, but I personally felt quite safe. It was a really special experience to live within these walls, even if it was only for a brief time.

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<<< My photo caption is sort of tongue-in-cheek. These three gentlemen look like they're waiting for something...or someone.

As it turns out, no controversy is too small for Jerusalem: the Christian factions who control the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Greek Orthodox, Catholic, Coptic, and Armenian - and if I've left anybody out, I know I'll hear about it soon enough), found themselves in the middle of a dilemma when it came to who gets to lock the Church doors at night.

To resolve the problem, a very Solomonic decision was reached: NONE of them will lock the door.

And that, folks, is how the job went to a local Muslim family whose responsibility is to unlock the Church doors in the mornings, and secure the doors in the evenings.

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"Holy Rock Cafe".

<< Click to enlarge pix.

Nuff said!

The cobalt blue mosaic tiling featured on the Dome of the Rock mosque is beautiful in the sunlight.

Jews still refer to this place as the Temple Mount because it is the site of the Second Temple - in fact, the Western Wall is the last vestige of said Temple, and it's adjacent to the Dome; Muslims refer to this place as Haram ash-Sharif and it's been home to the Al Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock for over a thousand years.

If you want to venture in, you'll pay an entrance fee to the complex but you'll be able to visit the Dome, the Al Aqsa Mosque, and spend time in the quiet complex. Legs and arms must be covered to enter the mosques.

The Mount of Olives can be seen in the distance.

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The Mount of Olives is an interesting contrast to the hustle and bustle of the Old Walled City. I was glad I had my tennis shoes on the day we decided to look for Oskar Schindler's grave. Although the cemetery is Jewish, legend has it that Schindler was buried here in honor of the help he gave his Jewish factory workers during WWII.

The tombstones are literally on top of each other - it's major prime real estate here, based on the belief dating back to the Old Testament that this is the site where the dead will be resurrected first, during the coming of the Messiah.

The panoramic vista of the Old City is really nice from the Mt. of Olives. That's part of the Old City in the background.