Travel Tips

The magic of the forest lies in its infinite promise of discovery. Above, below, and all around, one’s senses are electrified by this mysterious enclosed world. It was only 2 hours I spent in the Central Mountain forests near Bonao, but I emerged exhausted due to a complete sensory overload.
We set off in search of Charco Bonito, a waterfall in the thickly forested valleys beyond Los Quemados. Before anything else, we had to negotiate the crossing of the wide, fast flowing Rio Yuma. Although the water only reached up to my kneecaps, its deceptive currents made me sway like a staggering drunk, much to the mirth of some kids on the bank. So with dignity slightly impaired, we began to step steeply into the forest.
As climates go, few are as hospitable year round as this one. Every crop, fruit and root worth growing simply thrives here. As a result the mountain absorbs you with the sweet fragrance of life; fruits maturing and flowers blossoming. Birds and insects grow heady feasting on fallen pods of cacao. While walking we are able to gather succulent guava or chinola fruit almost bursting the branches with their goodness. Although the sun is directly above the canopy, the dewy leaves keep us constantly refreshed as we brush against them.

For a good 20 minutes we can hear the churning of Charco Bonito in the distance, yet its location is so well concealed one could easily miss it. Through ever thickening vegetation we are drawn frantically like starving children towards the water source. And when we arrive no-one is disappointed. Charco Bonito turns out to lie in a wonderful clandestine glade, an enchanting respite from the claustrophobia of the forest.
We eagerly sate ourselves, diving and splashing in the transparent lagoon. The waterfall rifles my head without mercy then discharges my body back into the pool. I think the aqua bullets softened my head a little. Next thing I know, reclining on a boulder and taking in the scene before me, I’m reminded of those Garden-of-Eden style shampoo adverts on television. It is all quite surreal and intoxicating. After a quick slide down a mini cascade we head back, legs already aching. I cling hard to the rope this time as we cross the river once more, with the feeling of having left a natural fairground. Like a kid turned inside out and upside down by the carousels, I wander home tired and happy.