"Lake Como and Sicily - Fall 2003" by stockton

After enjoying a Prosecco and then some sleep, we woke to the sunrise over the Alps with the mountain tops poking up through the clouds. Landed at Malpensa and picked up a car to drive up to Lake Como at 8am (ie 2am Toronto time). Our destination was Bellagio - not that far north of Milano but it took us 2 -1/2 hours to get there. First we had to navigate through Como at rush hour with a coupla accidents then you take the lakeside road which is very narrow and winding with absolutely no shoulders. I'd say it was really 1-1/2 lanes wide.
Bellagio is truly spectacular and lives up to its reputation as the "loveliest town in Europe". Lake Como is at the base of the Alps and is shaped like an inverted 'Y' with Bellagio at the "crotch". The shore rises fairly steeply . The level was probably down about six feet as it had been a hot, dry summer. We found our hotel after finally finding reverse - the Metroploe is a three-star, centrally located opn the water in Bellagio. It was clean but nothing special. Had a ower nap and then wondered around a bit and ended up at a lovely restaurant called La Punta that was about 10 minutes out of town. Passed some georgeous villas on the way, then more exploring of the shops in town. Main shopping street is pedestrian only. An English couple that we chatted with told us about a restaurant called Trattoria Giacomo that is so popular that it fills up in 10 minutes after it opens at 7pm - naturally we had to go! Sure enough it was full by 7:10!! Dinner was excellent and good value with suggestion for matching wines. With only about 15 tables, there were tons of folks sitting on the steps outside waiting for a table. The waiters would give them a glass or two of wine while they were waiting so it soon became quite festive out there.

Today we decided to the take the efficient ferries to different towns on the lake. For 7.50 euros you can buy an all day pass for the towns at the center of the lake. First we went to Tremezzo ad the Villa Carlotta. There are many beautiful old villas around the lake but this one is particularly known for its 14 acres of gardens. It was first built in 1690 but is named for a Prussian princess who eceived the villa as a dowry in 1848. The gardens are well maintained and full of plants and trees from all over the world. The rhododendron trees are huge.

Back on the ferry to Varenna where we stopped for brunch at Albergo Olivedo (of Rick Steeves fame). It was across from the ferry landing. Perfect weather to sit in the sun, enjoy a carafe of wine and dine on the local fish which is a type of trout.

Lake Como must be hopping in July and August, so September is quiter as things slow down. Wandered through Varenna along the water'scedge on the apsserwlla that hugs the lake. Visited the Villa Monastero that was originally a fmale Cistercian monastery in 1200's. Now it is a conference center. The gardens here are beautiful with nice statuary and curved stone walls.

Next stop was Menaggio. Walked along the water's edge and skipped a Villa here. Had a gelato and relaxed in the piazza. There were 5 gelaterias around the piazza.
Beief ferry ride back to Bellagio where we sat on a patio under a lowered awning and people watched. Dinner tonight was at Bilacus up on the rooftop terrace. Good food, fish de-boned by the waiter and a bottle of Sambuca put of the table for our cafe corretos.

Today we did a walking tour along with a little shopping along the way. The town'shistorical center is called the 'Borgo' . There are remnants here and there of the medieval walls that made up their defense system. There have been villas on Lake Como since Roman times. Pliny and his buddies hung out here. Went through the Basilica San Giacomo, a Lombard-Romanesque style church built in the 11th century, although the bell tower is older.

It turns out that our hotel was the first to open in Bellagio in 1825 and was called the Hotel Genazzini. Thank god they have renovated since then.

Just outside of Bellagio proper is the Villa Melzi that was built in 1810 by Conte Melzi who was a friend of Napolean. Mre gorgeous gardens along the lake with huge old trees from all over the world. We crossed the penisula to the other side (about 10 minutes walking) to Pescallo, a quiet fishing village. Had brunch at Pergola on a beautiful grapevine canopied terrace. Beneath us on the sand was the local artist oil painting the scenery. e was quite good and hade several works for sale at 100 euros. Walked back through the "suburbs" passing many nice hhomes and a coupla more villas.
Back at the hotel we discovered that they had a roof terrace. Took a bucket of Smirnoff Ice and Comparis up to the deserted roof and spent a leisurely afternoon reading. What a view! Weather again was perfect.

Went back again to Trattoria San Giacomo as it was so good. Fresh funghi porcini in three courses was the special that night. More step people.