Travel Tips

Aluminum silicates and ferric oxides were leached out of this red laterite sterile earth.

Landscape is made of dry grass with sandstone rocks, eroded over time by wind and rain into weird shapes. After hardship, due to bad quality road, Isalo Massif is in the middle of the Bara region. Isalo canyons begin here, after a descent from Horombe plateau.

It contains rare plantlife and a miriad of termite mounds, tiny stalagmite pinnacles and is home of small baobab trees.

After 290 km of amazement, from Fianarantsoa, we decided a halt to see this jewel in Ranohira... Well, it is 10 km from Ranohira and at the edge of Isalo national park.

A stop at "Relais de la reine", Isalo, a beautiful place. I appreciate there the use of elements on building this hotel. Colour, style are in line with Le Relais environment, an oasis that is made of dry grass, stones, rocks... The whole site is peaceful and elegant... By far, this is for me the most beautiful hotel in Madagascar. I noticed that they use solar panels for energy supplying.

Isalo is known for its natural rock pool with clear water.. Don't forget your swimming suit as it seems enchanting. Its National park has its cascades that are worth seeing and are home of several species of lemurs, reptiles and birds species (50 species). Those cascades "feed" Isalo natural pool with water.

Isalo National park is at the right of Nationale 7 (if you are heading South). We hadn't seen it but 2-3 days are not too much to visit it. Use VTT or 4*4 or.. trekk! Always with a guide... Admire sunrise in canyons, go for camping there as well. Ask to see "Window of Isalo"...

Another interesting spot: Apes valley (La vallée des singes). A canyon where flora is comparatively abundant: along a river, palm trees and bamboo adjoins with ricefields (yes, forgotten for many kilometers and popping up again). Home of maki lemurs.

One important tip: Isalo park has many fady (forbidden things, accesses). Know them and respect them as rocks use to house graves. Note that subjects related to death, soul and spirit are important to Malagasy culture..

One regret for this trip: I wish I could have more films to take pictures of those landscapes, sunsets... Next time, I would re-visit the Park.

We continued the trip. Still 240 km to Toliara from Ranohira.

Went across Sakaraha region, with tiny villages... A much less interesting area, though unusual as well. This is my souvenir of Sakaraha but it seems that following the craze for Sapphire seaching, Sakaraha became a Far-West city, aggressive, with housing popping up in every corner. But, still, housing was expensive as demand was really high. People came to Sakaraha to find precious gem stones (sapphire).

In recent years ( late 90s), it was challenged by Ilakaka sapphire mines (further north). Ilakaka began then a dangerous shanty town where money floods, where everything is pricey... transportation, housing, "hotels", bars, girls... Many jobless persons in Tana area went there to cater sapphire searchers... as taximen, prostitutes, cooks...

As for "How do they live in this arid area?". Total mystery! I just noticed that there were manioc plants in nearby area...

Two hours further south from Isalo are the tombs of Andranovory. These Mahafaly and Antandroy tombs are among the most impressive in Madagascar. No more film in our cameras, the last shot was for this sunset. It's a pity! In austral winter, sun sets at 5.30 pm so... take it into account as well!
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More roadtrip? I suggest you have a look at my Heading East travelogues. They are tales of many trips I made from Tana to Toamasina city.