"Big South Journey, from Centre to South I" Top 5 Page for this destination Madagascar Travelogue by Norali

This time, some pics taken during our Big South Journey on Route Nationale 7. This journey is a classical one that travel agencies and tour operators use to arrange. Though I recommend now doing it with taxi-brousse, cheaper and a great way to mingle with locals. Or, if you can afford it, help yourself with documentation, hire a car and chauffeur. You would be able to stop everywhere you want, that is not always possible with taxi-brousses.

From Tana to Tolagnaro (Fort-Dauphin), a series of diverse landscapes... some 1000 km to discover.

As for our journey, we travelled from Tana to Toliara (Tuléar) with a chauffeur who used to work as a guide as well. With an early leaving, it is a journey that you may do in one day but we chose to travel as cool as possible. Two days to reach Toliara. Thus, we travelled for 3 hours from Tana to Antsirabe.

Tana, Antsirabe and Fianarantsoa share the same landscape as they belong to the Higlands (high altitude: 1000- 2500 m). Ricefields are located in Tana and Antsirabe plains as in Fianar area, hillsides also "host" cascade ricefields.

Arotel hotel in Antsirabe by Norali

Antsirabe, 160 km from Tana, known for its thermal source, is the freshest area in Madagascar. Part of Antananarivo province, it is located in an altitude of 1500m.

Before entering the city, you may buy fruits on nicely set stalls alongside the road (esp. in Mahandraza).
As for its setting, you will notice a kind of European style of its urban area.

Bira (its nickname) is also well-known for agriculture as its inhabitants supply Antananarivo and other regions with vegetables and fruits, exception made for tropical fruits. This area counts many centers dedicated to agriculture and breeding researches, in cooperation with European academics (Norway, Belgium...) who exchange students and send teachers.

Cottonfields, tobacco fields are parts of its landscape as well. Malagasy national beer, a pilsener type, Three Horses Beer (THB), is produced in Antsirabe.

While Toamasina and Mahajanga welcome great influxes of holidaymakers during winter holidays (well, they use to be the European and US holidays) from July to September, Antsirabe or Bira welcomes holidaymakers in Easter holidays.

In the past, circa. 1870s, Norwegian missionaries, seeking for freshness, established there. French settlers developed the city as well. That entitles it this European style setting.

Have a look at my Antsirabe page to see more of the city. Also find in Tlogues there other pictures of Tana-Antsirabe roadtrips that a good friend of mine took with a pro camera.

Go there to relax as the city is really calm, rather clean. Antsirabe is also the trade place for precious stones that are extracted in Southern Ilakaka. Tritriva and Andraikiba lakes are worth seeing. Both have their own legend. Ask your guide to arrange a trekking there. Beware, a fady exists concerning Andraikiba lake: No pork meat is allowed.

Still in the Highlands (Marc)

After our lunch in Arotel restaurant, we headed to Fianarantsoa, 408 km from Tana. Antsirabe- Fianarantsoa in 5-6 hours for 240 km.

Still in the Highlands (Marc)

Cascade ricefields in Fianar area (Anne)

On our way to Fianarantsoa, we travelled through cities: Ambositra, Ambohimahasoa.

From Ambositra, Nationale 7 adjoins East coast forest that hosts Zafimaniry and Tanala peoples... "Tanala" means "those who live in forests".

In Ambositra area (90 km), discover Zafimaniry artcraft. Zafimaniry peoples are great handcrafters, sculpting precious woods like palissandre, rosewood. Crafts range from wood pencils to styled chairs, jewel box, candy box... This is however a huge proceeds that leads to exterminate forest and its rare and precious diversity as trade of those wooden jewels expands.

Have a look at my Faritanin'i Fianarantsoa page to see more of Ambositra and Ambalavao.

Stayed in Fianarantsoa for the night, in Plaza Hotel... BTW, "Fianarantsoa" means "the city where to learn good", "good" as opposed to "evil"...
I remember have eaten in Papillon restaurant delicious grilled tuna steak! One says that it is the best restaurant in Madagascar (with Colbert) as for French cuisine.

Fianar city counts many editing houses, historians... due to Betsileo peoples' taste for hard work, learning, intellectual effort... No doubt that it deserves its name... City counts three distinct layers. Downtown is dedicated to commerce and other shops. Uptown, old city, hosts history lovers and intellectuals. Between the two, an administrative district.

Fianarantsoa is known for its wine, Lazan'i Betsileo, Maromby (from Maromby monastery), Soavita. The region was "held" by French missionaires, that makes Fianarantsoa counting more catholic people than other parts of the Island. Vineyards are seen from the Nationale 7. We hadn't done it but it is possible to visit vineyards.

Worth noticing: as a result from catholicism spreading, you would see many statues of Marie, Blessed Virgin in Fianar region.

Alongside wine production, this is the region that produces Toakagasy, a rotgut made from rice or sugarcane alcohol... Off the record selling though.

On morning, we left Fianar for Toliara.

Ricefields in Fianar area (Norali)

Ambalavao, then Ankaramena and Ihosy.
Ambalavao is less than an hour from Fianar. Artcraft: Antemoro paper, made from crunched Havoha barks. Motifs are made with flowers petals, that are laid on the paste obtained from crunched barks. The whole set is left there for drying and to have the paste hardened.

As the trip advances, landscape changes, yellow, grey and orange replace green.

Weather is drier and drier. From Ambalavao, Andringitra massif (at an altitude of 2658m) is replaced by rocky mountains.

From Ambalavao to Ankaramena, rocky mountains and red earth. From Ankaramena to Ihosy, rocky mountains are replaced by steppes. Dry grass with baobab trees.

Ihosy junction (Marc)

At Ihosy junction: choice is given between heading to Toliara on one hand, to Toalagnaro (Fort- Dauphin) on another hand. Choice is made: Toliara...

40 km to go through Horombe plateau. See second part for pictures and comments of this diverse region. After hardship, due to bad quality road, Isalo Massif is in the middle of this Bara region. Isalo is known for its natural pool. Its National park has its cascade that is worth seeing and is home of many lemurs, reptiles and birds species. I didn't have the chance to visit this park because we wanted to make the journey as short as possible.

A stop at "Relais de la reine", Ranohira, a beautiful place.
Please find pictures of Ihosy - Sakaraha in parts II and III including Horombe plateau, Ranohira, Isalo canyons, Sakaraha.

We continued the trip and went across Sakaraha region, with tiny villages. See parts II and III for details about those cities as landscape there deserves a real focus...

We continued our journey. A descent followed an ascent in bushy landscape, and we entered Toliara city. We saw the Table at city entry. It was dark and, for sure, I (neither my friends) don't have any picture of this Toliara table.

Arrived in town, we stayed at Le Capricorne. Nice, comfortable and clean bungalows, discreet personnel in a superb complex. Had a nice stay there but fell asleep as soon as dinner was over... Tried to discuss out in the garden and patios though but the bed was calling me :-)

The day after, I discovered a city that is far poorer than other Malagasy cities. Of course, the country is not rich but comparatively to the others, Toliara center didn't seduce me at all. However, the big South journey is one of most interesting road trips I ever made... Some 1000 kms to wander, discover, to marvel at...

Like in every city, ricksaws are everywhere, carrying people pulled by a "driver". Though work is hard for pousse-pousse drivers, especially those in Tana who pull, rather than carry, hundreds of kilos of lumbers, iron bars..., they are seen as lucky because they do have a job.

Ifaty beach (Norali)

Toliara yellow sanded, desert beaches are appreciated though... Here in Ifaty (25 km North from Toliara center), where sandhills are common.

Second part: a focus on Horombe plateau.

Third part: Isalo massif