"#3 - Road to Hana - Hana Town to Li ..." a Maui Travel Page by dlytle

The trip to Hana is often a hurried, one day affair which is really unfair to you and which you might find frustrating at having to end so soon. Unless you live on the left coast of the United States or Canada or Mexico, and can do Maui fairly often, this may be the one and only time you’ll make this thrilling trip. So consider spending at least two days on this adventure. Even if you have already paid for a hotel room in Kaanapali or Kihei, to be able to truly savor the flavor of the Hana Drive, and to see its wonders without dealing with crowds, it might truly be worth it to spend the extra money to stay the night in Hana.

On your first day take a leisurely drive to Hana, stopping at all of the scenic and beautiful spots along the road and unhurriedly and fully partaking of the natural beauty. When you get into the Hana vicinity you can find accommodations at many locations. Fully equipped housekeeping cabins at nearby Waianapanapa State Park are available for a pittance. There are a number of bed and breakfast places along the Hana Drive route, some of them charging as little as $50 per night double. A more expensive option is the Hotel Hana Maui in Hana itself. There are also some bungalows down below Hasawega’s store that can be rented. By staying the night you will be able to see Oheo Gulch and Lindberg’s grave earlier in the morning and without the hoards of tourists that show up later.

So the second day might be spent leisurely driving to see Wailua Falls, Kanahualui Falls, Oheo Gulch and its beautiful pools and Lindberg’s gave in the Palapala Hoomau Congregational Church cemetery. Follow that up with a visit to Hasegawa’s General Store back in Hana, then a swim at the black sand beach at Waianapanapa State Park, followed by a more relaxing drive back to Kahului without a caravan of cars on your tailpipe trying to push you along too quickly.

But keep in mind that the scenery is just one part of the Hana experience. Hana's people are as much a part of the landscape as the fish, flowers and falls are. The region's people are mostly all blood related and their spirits and personalities are deeply rooted in this land. Their isolation has preserved their genuine aloha for the visitor and cemented the bonds of “Ohana”, or family, with their neighbor. This solitary existence has imparted to Hana town the quality of being seemingly untouched, unsullied, and totally unlike anyplace else you've ever visited.

Before leaving the Hana Town area you may want to consider visiting one special beach in this area. On the other side of Kauiki Head from the Hana Bay terminus of route 360 is the very nice, though small, Kaihalulu (Red Sand) Beach. Kaihalulu beach is definitely in contention for the most visually stunning beach in the islands, and therefore the world. The beach is located in the collapsed 'caldera' of a very old volcanic cinder cone, Pu'u Ka'uki'i. It is about 150 to 200 feet long with a striking cliff backdrop. There is also protection from waves as a lava rock barrier blocks direct wave action. The water around the beach is calm and usually clear. Keep in mind that much of the red "sand" is really finely ground rough cinders, but it is just fine for laying out on a beach towel or mat. The natural breakwater makes the water much calmer inside the cove than outside (but beware the rip current at the north end of the breakwater). That, plus the beach's seclusion, and treacherous loose cinder trail access holds down the crowds and makes it popular with nude snorkelers.

The steep walk down from the road is very treacherous, and many severe accidents have occurred there. Many locals refuse to make the trip. So although really only a good stop for the most adventurous tourist, the easiest way to get there is to find the Hana Community Center, it is located near the grounds of the Hotel Hana Maui. Please be considerate of the guests, as several cabins are near the trail that takes you to the beach. Be aware this really isn't public access, you have to cross or walk along private property (Hotel Hana Maui and the Cemetery). Please be respectful of the private property.

Once you have found the Community Center, park anywhere there is public parking. Walk to the south end of the center, where it meets the Hotel Hana property. The narrow, difficult and unstable path starts on the south side of the Community Center and passes an old cemetery. The path then goes down to the shoreline, and back up around the cinder cone. Follow the path back, and be careful while doing so, the cinders make for unsure footing. Follow the path to its end, at Red Sand Beach. Theft usually isn't a problem at the beach itself, but you should be careful to take or conceal anything left in your car where you parked it. You will find that this beach is best visited before 11am. Afterwards the temperature soars and the winds really kick up rough currents.

So now, if you have made the decision to drive beyond Hana to visit Oheo Gulch and possibly Charles Lindberg’s grave, keep in mind that the mile markers are going to start counting down as you travel past Hana. The road becomes even narrower now - less than one lane wide! Be prepared to pull off to allow oncoming traffic get past you, and proceed very slowly.

Your next stop on the road past Hana will be Koki Beach and Hamoa Beach at mile marker 51.7. So take Highway 360 past Hana. The access road is located just south of a large cinder cone. There should be a sign directing you to both Koki and nearby Hamoa Beach. Turn left there on Koki Beach Road which should be a loop road. Koki Beach, a large red sand beach, is the first beach on the left.

The views of the road and the coast make this jaunt worthwhile. There is also a sea arch located near the point to the left. Dangerous riptides make swimming at Koki a very dangerous proposition. Koki is best used for casual beachcombing.

Alau Island is just offshore from Koki, and is a very picturesque "tropical island", as well as being a bird sanctuary. Photographers will want to get pictures of themselves with Alau Island in the background.

Hamoa beach, rated as one of the most beautiful in Hawaii, is located just one mile down the road from Koki Beach. The drive down to the beach alone is absolutely beautiful. There are several beaches in the area, Hamoa being the safest and most beautiful.

Turn down the access road and follow it around until you reach the beaches. Hamoa Beach is located about 1.5 miles down the access road. There's a bus pull off on the seaward side of the road, the beach is just below the overlook. There is no parking next to the beach, park on the road above and take the stairs down to the shore. Proceed down the walkway steps to the beach.

Hamoa is perfect for swimming or snorkeling on the calm days, and good for bodysurfing on the windy. And, just as in ancient times, there is excellent surfing here too. But only when the when the waves are up. Hamoa is unprotected by fringing reefs, so big surf hits the beach unimpeded. As Hamoa is the semi-private beach of the Hotel Hana-Maui, it is well-maintained, as shown by the paved, torchlit walkway leading to the beach. Hamoa Beach is about 1,000 feet long and about 100 feet wide with sea cliffs surrounding it. You can expect to spend about an half hour or more here.

When you get back on the highway at the end of the loop, you will be getting on right before mile marker 48.

Get your camera ready for one of the most photographed spots on the island. These two waterfalls are picture-perfect examples of everything you've imagined: streams tumbling from an overhead precipice, falling into a cool reservoir ringed with exotic vegetation. Whether you snap a few photos or sample the waters and commit the place to memory, you'll have at least a small portion of what you came for. Ah, the joys of island life.

These two impressive waterfalls are to be seen just south of Hana before the Oheo Gulch and its numerous pools. As you drive along both waterfalls will be on the right side, close by the roadside, and fall down their sharp cliff faces, surrounded by vegetation. The first, at mile marker 46.8 about 7 miles south of Hana, is Wailua Falls. 200-feet high, it can easily be seen from the highway. Often tourists will sit on the bridge’s railing to get a photo of themselves with these falls so be cautious as you cross the bridge. If you stop and park and take the time to make the short hike to the base of the fall, you will be in for a truly beautiful sight. The air may be filled with mist as you walk to the base of the mossy grotto at the foot of the falls so be careful of your footing. Wailua Falls is best seen in the morning when the sun is shining on it. Also, the water flow of these falls varies but it is usually beautiful at any flow-rate.

The second waterfall that you will see will be Kanahualui Falls which is located a little farther down the road. There is a pullout on the side of the road past the bridge and then there's a short path downstream to the falls.

These streams and waterfalls are the wet and wonderful reason there are so many bridges on the road to Hana! These mountain streams provide a refreshing reward for the many twists and turns the road dishes out, and even in the occasional dry season the remaining ponds are great for exploring. This side of Haleakala is so moist that a private network of 75 miles of tunnels and ditches provides water for the sugar cane fields carpeting the central plains and for part of the upcountry population. As you drive you’ll see water trickling out of the hillside through ferns and soft moss, and countless mini-cascades finding their way to the sea.

A very beautiful spot, and a place where you will definitely get to stretch your legs on the walk to the stream, waterfalls and pools area, Oheo Gulch at mile marker 44 is a national park. At this park you can enjoy a 15 minute hike down the Kuloa Point loop trail which leads to the most viewed areas as well as the ocean or take a two hour hike along the Pipiwai Trail that takes you to 400-foot Waimoku Falls.

As an advertising stunt long ago these pools came to be known as the Seven Sacred Pools—as if the ancient Hawaiian’s specially revered them in some way, which they didn’t. There are more than seven pools – about 24 actually – and all water in Hawaii is considered sacred. But folks here call it by its rightful name, Oheao Gulch and visitors sometimes refer to it as Kipahulu, which is actually the name of the area where Oheo Gulch is located.

The area is absolutely gorgeous with the Pacific Ocean lapping at the edge of the bottom level of the pools. There are many levels if you want to climb and nude swimming is common at the top. There is a ranger station and plenty of parking. There is a fee (US$ 10 as I remember but then the pass is good for a week) and there are bathrooms. The ranger station is only open until 5:00pm but the bathrooms remain open.

Be sure to bring bottled water if you hike. There are several waterfall pools to swim in. Bring a bathing suit and towel if you plan to swim. You can expect to spend a total of about 2-3 hours at this location. It's the last major stop on the Road to Hana Trip.

And now comes the last stop of our outward-bound journey, a visit of respect to aviation pioneer Charles Lindbergh’s grave. This will be found at mile marker 43.0. You will need to keep a sharp lookout on the left side of the road for a small white sign set back on a narrow road which indicates that this is the location of the Palapala Ho’omau Congregational Church (built in 1857) and Charles Lindbergh's grave site.

Hana is where the famous aviator chose to live the last few years of his life in peace and anonymity. After moving to Hana full-time, Charles was stricken with cancer. Charles Lindbergh would take his final flight in 1974, as he checked himself out of a New York Hospital and flew home to die, surrounded by friends and family.

An unassuming and somewhat shy man, he gave specific instructions as to how he wanted to be buried. No big monument, no road signs and an unmarked grave were his wishes. Well he is entombed in a marked grave but he certainly rests in a very beautiful and difficult to find plot.

The pretty limestone coral church owning this cemetary was built in 1857. Lindbergh's grave is on the ocean side of the cemetary under the shade of a Java plum tree. Before he died, he sketched a simple design for his grave and coffin.

Charles Lindbergh died on August 26, 1974

As you stand there at his grave, let the memories of your knowledge of this famed aviator fly free. Quietly resting at your feet, a great pilot lies buried. Lindberg was a man that changed the face of aviation forever. This man challenged the air and the ocean and won against great odds, and public opinion, while flying in a jury-rigged experimental airplane. Here lies a true American hero! President Gerald Ford said Lindbergh represented all that was best in America -- honesty, courage and the desire to succeed. Amen.

Whew. What a trip. Incredible foliage, lush tropical forests, spectacular vistas, wave-pounded beaches, idyllic waterfalls, hair-raising, hair-pin curves, a few near misses and lots of slow driving and waiting at one lane bridges. Pulling the car over onto very small road margins trying to get that perfect view and photograph. Getting in and out and in and out of the car time after time. Snapping picture after picture – boy I hope you brought enough film—until you thought you were seeing the world through a lens. As one visitor put it, “I feel like my camera’s going to explode!” You have feasted your eyes on bamboo jungles, breezy eucalyptus groves, roadside fruit stands, brilliant tropical flowers and postcard-perfect panoramas that have remained basically the same for hundreds of years. You have put up with your significant other telling you to “slow down” and “be careful” and “watch out” time after uncounted time. You have ooh’d and aah’d until your voice is almost hoarse. Basically, you have survived the Road to Hana! Congratulations!

One final picture perfect moment might still await you however. Depending upon how you have timed your trip, upon your return you might be approaching Hookipa Beach Park just at sunset. If so, do yourself one last favor on this trip and pull into the overlook area of Hookipa Beach. The sun will be setting spectacularly in front of you and this will be the best seat in the house. Snap a few pictures and heave a sigh of relief that the road ahead of you is normal once again.

From here it is only a few short driving miles to Kahului and maybe an hour or so away from Lahaina and the Kaanapali resort hotels. You have just taken, and survived, one of the most magnificent road trips available anywhere in the world. Relax tonight at a quiet waterfront restaurant or bar. Talk about the places you went and the funny things that happened on this trip. Write them indelibly in your memory forever. It just doesn’t get any better than this.

Well, you should be convinced by now that a visit to Hana was well worth the effort, but remember, the drive itself was the real adventure.

See you on the road!