"Highlights of our lava exploration Sept., 2002" Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Travelogue by BlueCollar

We were on the Big Island from September 7th through the 14th. We started planning this trip just a few weeks beforehand after seeing the news reports showing Kilauea producing large surface flows. However, it did not dawn on us that we would be travelling over the anniversary of the September 11th attacks. We kept our fingers crossed that nothing would happen to keep us stranded on the islands. And nothing did.

It seems that the recent reports on CNN and other news broadcasts about the active lava flows from Kilauea's main vent, Pu`u O`o, had triggered an increased interest in travel to the Big Island. Attendance at Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park was way up according to a story in their local paper. Heck, that's why we made another trip back there. We wanted to see more lava. And we did.

Last year we had to hike about 2.5 miles out from the end of Chain of Craters Road to see the lava flowing on the surface. This time it was literally right at the end of the road. So close in fact the Park Service had to move their portable Ranger Station further up the road just in case Pele decided to send a little more their way.

We made a couple trips out to the end of the road before sunrise on our first two mornings there. Although we were staying at a B&B in the town of Volcano right outside the Park, it was still a 45 minute drive out there. And it was worth it! From the end of the road by the seashore you could see the glow of the red hot lava trails some 5 to 6 miles up the hill leading all the way to the ocean. And there was a distinct bright orange glow in the gas cloud that rose from the ocean where the lava entered.

Surprisingly, we were not alone out there. It seems others had the same idea: Get up early and go see the lava. We were up at 3:00 AM and down there by 5:00. And it was worth it!

I put my camcorder in "Nightshot" mode so it captured the infrared light. It made it much more apparent just how "hot" the ground around us was.

Pele's hair?

This is Madame Pele's hair. Well..... that's what it's called. Pele is a blonde, you ask? Seems like it. Hmmmmm....a blonde polynesian woman....interesting. :) These fibers are all over the place downwind from any of the spouting or spurting lava activity. They are created as molten lava is thrown into the air and the thin strands are quickly cooled. The wind quickly carries them away and they settle into reccessed areas like this.

There were a few crazy folks who crossed the flow and were taking photos of the lava dropping into the sea. I was told that there was a 3 to 5 meter drop to the ocean right where you see the gas cloud eminating from. I did not venture out there since I did not feel it was safe. Why? Since this particular flow started back on Mother's Day, it has created a huge bench that was estimated at 30 meters out beyond the old flow towards the ocean and 400 meters wide. These benches are notorious for colapsing into the ocean without warning. Hence, I stayed back on the old flow. The photo second from the bottom, taken from the air, will give you a better idea of the way this bench has developed. For more cautions on viewing lava, go here: http://geopubs.wr.usgs.gov/fact-sheet/fs152-00/

I thought lava followed the path of least resistance? This little beauty proved otherwise. This is two separate photos of the same finger viewed from opposite sides. This finger flowed upwards and stopped. So how is that the path of least resistance?

Walking on thin land! The cracks were glowing red

We used Arnott's Lodge again for a guided hike onto the lava flow. We hiked all the way to that first ridge where the lava was flowing down the hill.
We hiked over this area that was fairly fresh. It was still so hot you could not stand in one place for long because your shoes could melt. The cracks and crevices were still glowing red hot. I would not have gone out here unescorted. As a matter of fact, the Park Service has an agreement with the guides to start the hike before the crowds show up, make sure there are no followers, and return to the road from an inconspicuous area. So we had to hike across the old flow and then approach the road so nobody saw us coming from the direction of the current flow.

A fresh flow

We went on Tropical Helicopter's "Feel the Heat" tour. They take the doors off so you have an unobstructed view. It was awesome. We had gone on Air Kaua`i's tour with their oversized cabin windows which was nice. But you still had to deal with the glare from the glass if you wanted to photograph anything. Here, there is nothing in the way. This is an awesome ride and WELL WORTH THE EXPENSE.

In this photo, which was taken around 3:30PM, you can see the ellipse I placed around the grey finger of the fresh flow. All of the photos of the lava at night posted above were taken in this same area just before today's sunrise.

Another thing obvious in the picture is that the lava is right at the end of Chain of Craters Road. This volcano is now probably the only friendly volcano in the world that is truly wheelchair accessible...seriously! Last year when we were here, we had to hike 2.5 miles across the older lava fields from the end of this road to see the fresh surface flows. It is a very arduous hike over this very difficult and dangerous terrain. And this time it was so easy!

Just remember: When and if you come here, it may or may not be flowing in the same place. The lava flows are dynamic and change almost daily. Go to this website for current lava flow updates with maps and nice photos, too.

Lots of glowing red lava running down this slope. What a sight! It was cloudy and raining pretty much for the duration of our stay this time. On this day, there was a 2500 foot (800 meters) ceiling that the helicopter had to stay below. Therefore, no pictures of the main vent, Pu`u O`o, which was supplying all of this molten rock. Maybe next time. :(