Travel Tips

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HISTORICAL CENTER

Been the capital of Brazil for over 200 years, Salvador has in its streets and buildings a lot to tell. The Historical Center is a part of town recently (and by horrendous ways) restored for the taste and pleasure of the tourists. Its most popular district is Pelourinho.

In times of the sugar cane cicle (XVI and XVII centuries, mostly) the farm owners (and consequently slave owners) had a farm in the Recôncavo area (check my
<a href="http://www.virtualtourist.com/m/.16324/article/217/23/?s=g">Cachoeira Travelogue</a href>) and a house at the capital, where the main harbours and piers were.

That's how Salvador was born and developed - up the hill facing the pier. Pelourinho was all built up, brick by brick, by the slaves, as the rest of what we call "Old Salvador". It diserves special attention though for its name - Pelourinho is the name of the log or column where slaves are tied to to be tortured.

The pelourinho (object) itself is no longer there, but you can still see the marks on the brickway of Ladeira do Pelourinho where it used to stand. Join me, ladies and gents, in the the Historical Center streets of the cradle of Brazil.

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Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado

One of the most important brazilian writers of all times, Jorge Amado has had his books translated to inumerous languages. Amongst the most famous there are "Tieta", "Mrs Flor and her two husbands" and "Capitains of Sand".

This beautiful house at the top of the Ladeira do Pelo (=Pelourinho's nickname) was turn into a foundation in his honour, for he lived there (it used to be a pension) in his times of student and young writer, when the district was still dangerous and inhabited by prostitutes and equally poor people.

Later those were cast away to favelas and received something like 50 dollars per family as an indenization to leave their houses and give way to enterprises.

That is why everyone who lives in Salvador knows Pelourinho is a kind of a Disney World, clean and safe and folkloric Salvador for tourists only - a make up on the colonial houses and the pain of knowing that those who called it a home are living in paperwall houses, praying God not to send rain.

*sigh*

But back to Jorge Amado... inside the Foundation there are copies of his books in many languages and all sorts of souvenirs. Beautiful t-shirts and miniatures! Also there are some very good concerts there every now and then, in the anfitheatre Zelia Gattai (named after the brazilian writer and Amado's wife) .

Traditionally the famous Olodum rehearsals were held there, but I guesses it's changed.

Visit the Foundation's site <a href="http://www.fundacaojorgeamado.com.br"> here </a href>.

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Terreiro de Jesus

Terreiro de Jesus is the delicious square that announces to the world the entrance to Pelourinho. In that square you have nowaday's Olodum rehearsal, every tuesday night after the blessing in Sao Francisco church.

You have also Cantina da Lua, a delicious cafe owned by the gentle Mr. Clarindo, a legend in the town as being one of the most important supporters of samba and influences in the fight for the rights of the blacks (in Brazil it is not a prejudice to call someone black - actually it's quite gentle to do so, even though the person you're talking to is white as a wall).

From that square you see the new Basilic Cathedral, or Se Cathedral (the old one was burnt down), the entrance to the Saint Francis square, some internet cafes, a coffin house (!), the old building of the Faculty of Medicine (first of its kind in the country) wich is being restored now and is worth visiting... Also Sao Domingos church and another one I forgot the name.

In the picture on top you see a painting of how the square was hundreds of years ago, and below it a recent picture of the old Faculty of Medicine.

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São Domingos Church

São Domingos is not one of the greatest churches in Salvador, but it will be of use for me to explain some myths and facts about the churches in town.

It is said that there are 365 churches in the city (catholic). Some say this number is exagerated, others say it's not even half of the real number. Well, you choose to believe whatever theory you want :).

Let's play a game now: pay attention to the church. What is wrong with it? Is there anything missing? Yes - a tower. And why?

Because every church, after ready, has to pay the Vatican an anual tax. How does the Vatican know a church is ready? Two towers. As you'll notice in Bahia not many people were willing to pay that tax. Only the most important ones have both towers!

* working*