Travel Tips

Rue Mouffetard is an ancient street of the village of St Marcel, near Paris.

It has kept its caractere and the main part of its houses are very old.

We have used the metro (station : Censier Daubenton) and previously, we began our tour from the bottom of the street. After the transfer the pictures are on a mess and I cannot order them.

Websites : in English : http://www.paris.org/Kiosque/dec96/mouffetard.html
In French : www.mouffe.com

The fruits look good, Jan Erik.

This one has no guitar but he is a good mime.

A tango lesson by the street.

This frontage is very beautiful with its painting.

On the photograph, it is only a detail.

Here was a Revolutionnary club and a popular public dancing.

Vidocq (ex-convict, then Policy chief of Napoleon) had his headquarter here.

Now it is a restaurant.

Near, at the number 52 there was the Louis Nivelle's house which was demolished in 1938. The workers found 16 millions FF in gold coins he had hidden during the Revolution. A will occompanied the treasure and the current relatives of Nivelle received a part of the legacy.

A pretty shop sign (modern) by the street.

An other one, older, included within the frontage.

The Wooden Spade Tavern gave its curious name to the street which crosses rue Mouffetard.

Have a look to the fountain, still in order.

Rue Mouffetard is a trail since the Neolitic.

It runs South - North, not very straight.

The whole cuisines of the world are represented in the street.

The morning there is a market with fresh vegetable and fruit.

Stop at the baker, he has delicious cakes and all sorts of bread. Several wine stores propose the most famous product of France. Octave, a good ice cream parlour is at number 138.

For travelers, there is aspecialized shop 1 rue de l'Arbalète (see the map). It is the editor of the "Petit Futé" (Small Cunning) a good addresses finder.

On the right of the market, there is the St Médard church of which cemetary was the scene of troubles caused by Jansenists at the beginning of the 18° Century. The public authority closed the graveyard and the morrow a funny guy had put a panel on which this sentence :

By King's order, it is forbiden to God to do miracles here.

All ages are present rue Mouffetard.

Near this place was the Philippe-August's Rampart of which ruins are now included within the buildings.

On this site, there is a charming place, generally crowded, with some restaurants and coffee shops.

You can sit on the chains to listen the street singers or to watch the pedestrians.

Near rue Mouffetard, there is the Lutece Arena.

A part of the stones had been told by the parisians to build their own houses but it remains the bench, curiously partly included within the constructions.

The Arena is placed in a small but pretty garden.

To visit.

Rue Mouffetard gathers numerous street singers during the Sunday morning Market.

The most famous is Christian with his accordion. He is here each Sunday or ferial day from 11AM to 2PM. He sings ancient balades (they are 200 in his repertory) and gives to the attendees a copy of the texts in order to sing together with him.

If you come sufficiently soon, you can take outdoor the breakfast at "Le pain Quotidien" (the daily bread) : a coffee bowl with croissant and baguette.

He has his "Fan Club" who comes every Sunday and some are specialists of one song (Christian writes their name on the score and tells : "Now, we will sing X, the specialist is Y").

Here is Lionel, the specialist of Eddy Mitchel's songs.

Once, a French women, living in USA, said : "Everybody is laughing, but me, I rather cry when I listen that music".

The fans are aged between 16 to 90.

The most ancient Fan is Antoinette, a former club owner of St Germain des Prés. You can recognize her : she is always sit nearby Christian.

Added note : Last times, I went there, Antoinette was not present...

Generally, there are several persons to dance on the music.

To be in, you must know the particular song of the group :
"Viens donc chanter à la Mouffetard.
Même si tu es en retard.
Viens donc chanter à la Mouffetard.
Même s'il y a des canards".

Translation :
"Come to sing at the Mouffetard.
Even you are late.
Come to sing at the Mouffetard.
Even there are ducks". (duck = voice of a bad singer)

Do not miss that. It is a great moment of Paris life. Few priviledged tourists have seen that.

Christian is not a classical street singer. It is not a karaoke. It is an atmosphere : the attendees are really happy to be there.

And Christian when he does not sing is an English teacher. You can speak with him.

I will show later a photograph of the Man with the walking sticks...

Others have more political content songs like the "Compagnie Jolie Môme".

Try to guess what is their political trend.