"Nakasendo trail" a Japan Travel Page by cosmopolit

After enjoying Kyotos many beautiful sights we leave by train for Hikone where the movie "Shogun" was filmed. Here we walk amongst original period homes, lively merchants districts with inns and tea houses used by Samurai the warrior class and traditional quarters of Japan of the Shogunates. The years 1639-1854 of "Sakoku" (closed country)have been a form of military dictatorship which almost isolated Japan for 200 years.

Ochiai with modern highwaybridge a reminder of nowadays..

Finally remote Shinchaya our Inn for the night high up in the mountains. Neither double glazing nor central heating but lot's of fun with feet under blanketed tabletop with heating lamp underneath. Practical as the Japanese are same equipment extended by futon makes for heated bed at night. Sliding room- and cupoard-doors make for more confusing fun as they usually have some landscape painted on. Remember which part of the picture you entered the room!

The hearth at one of the inns we stayed en route. Sitting around it just makes for a very homely feeling in long past times..

Drinking is a national pastime pleasure enjoyed in a more relaxed approach then in the west. Vendingmachines are endemic throughout even in the most unexpected remotest spots you shall not despair for a drinky. Supposedly you've got the right change...
Sake is drunk either reishu cold or atsukan warm which is quite handy in winter or spring in my case. Remember NO double glazing NO central heating. Tokkuri is the magic word for flask and don't forget to order it warm.
Sake barrels on display.

..now that we're spirited and in the right frame of mind. Ready to put on authentic Kimonos wooden clogs and go for a clatter admiring our hosts garden and pay a visit to the shrine to get in touch with a different kind of spirit.

An extremely well preserved post-town nestling on a slope surrounded by beautiful countryside.
Shimazaki Toson famous author of "Before the Dawn" was born here. There's a memorial hall dedicated to him along with other museums.
Be early to find it as pictured since it's very popular with japanese tourists.
It is well worth spending some time here to soak up the atmosphere.

That's one of the museums which represents ancient building style and traditional way of living.
Couldn't it be a 21st century designer home from "Wallpaper"?

Descending through woods past waterfalls, gurgling creeks and streams to small hamlet of O-Tsumago where the inns put on the lanterns at dusk.
Impression of what Japan looked like in the old days and in some spots even nowaday exists.

along the highway carved stones like this can be found, they've been put to protect the travellers.

Tsumago is the best preserved post town on the Nakasendo all modern amenities like telephone poles or electric wires are banned from main street. (Like Switzerland!) Bottom. Commanding views over Kiso Valley and Tsumago.

Hikone castle from 17th century and nearby palace gardens survived in original keep. Perfect views at cherry blossomtime.
Landscapeing japanese style for the observing eye and mind only. Rest your eyes and feel the spirit.

There were strict rules on the Nakasendo highway as to behaviour and what may not be carried along. e.g. princesses disguised as men, weapons etc. Every post town had the rules up on wooden boards as seen here.

another stunningly landscaped garden in the countryside quite a common feature.

Torii gatekeeper at shrine.

Torii the wooden gate.

Mind erosion on mountain in background a frequent problem throughout the mountains. On the way to Suhara we encountered this lovely "punkish" lady in her early sixties. Still going strong and eager to provide us with a bamboocup to laddle water from streams.

A train takes us to Yabuhara from where we walk over Toriitoge pass. On the way another stunning shrine.

If memory does not fail me it's a monastery or similar and a particular feature are the squeaky floors. On purpose they have been designed to make noise to alert at night if there was any movement around the building.

Manicured rockgarden on premises for meditating or just relaxing.

Carefully arranged rooms facing a garden each or just commanding an absolutely splendid "designer" view.
Architecture in my opinion is just breathtakingly beautiful. Ascetic just leaves room for sense and mind.
Amazing.

Instant peacefulness gone is all the hectic tranquility rules.

In Kiso-Fukushima we find the Seki Barrier station on the edge of town. These stations served as check-points on all highways to monitor travellers. Gates were closed at night to prevent movement. Whatever drew the attention of the guards, suspicious looking baggage or people was pulled aside for a search in nearby interrogation rooms. In particular, officials were looking for daimyo's wives who were escaping back home. These were held hostage in the court of Edo to ensure the good behaviour of their husbands.Firearms were the other commodity often smuggled along to be confiscated upon discovery. That was to prevent rebellion of feudal Lords against the central authority.

Stone lantern at the entrance to Narai. These lantern used to be lit all night to guide travellers.

Narai another amazingly beautiful village.

Another train takes us to Matsumoto a castle town up beneath the 3000m Japanese alps.
The castle is a "hirajiro" e.g. built on the plain instead of on top of a hill which explains the massive gate.

The oldest existing donjon in Japan has five stories and six floors. No battles ever fought here despite it's been designed as a fighting castle. It's got a remarkably large moat which actually almost makes for a river.
Matsumoto marked the end of our hiking through rural Japan from here we progressed to Nagoya to catch the bullet train.

From Hikone we continue by train to Sekigahara. From here we travel accross the Mino plain and through Kiso river valley reaching Mitake an quiet post town.

Post towns were spaced along the old highways for travellers convenience and to change horses or for provision of porters. Accomodation was by rank. The highest Daimyos, feudal lords staied in a honjin. Lesser daimyos in a waki-honjin.
Here's our humble accomodation a traditional country inn which made for first hand cultural experience and lot's of fun.

Dining japanese style

In the 1690s the Nakasendo Highway was described by Europeans as more crowded than public streets in any of the most populous towns in Europe. Hence strict adherence to travelling schedules was important to avoid embarrassing clashes for limited space by a daimyo and his retinue. Less important travellers (like us) would stay at a local inn. Occasionally original paving stones (Ishidatami) remain laid out only in steeper parts or rough patches preventing erosion and assisting porters when negotiating tough parts. Making progress from Okute towards Ena ascending through forests we follow the longest Ishidatami in Japan.

Highest ranks have been carried in a richly decorated palanquin with silk cushions, others on horseback but most travelled on foot. Now we are climbing the upper Kiso valley leaving behind Mount Outake heading for Ochiai before the final climb.
If I recall correctly this should be a Waki-honjin.

Ochiai