Restaurant Name: Chez Palmyre
Chez Palmyre is a tiny family-run restaurant. There are only six tables and one is occupied by the family, who take it in turns to cook and serve an authentic French meal. The décor is genuine kitsch. There’s even an old-fashioned phone – the sort you dial rather than push buttons – remember those? The old-fashioned look (ie they’ve not re-decorated since the 70s) is more cheerful than stylish.
The night we went, December 2004, only two other tables were occupied. I suggest you get there on time. It was a bit like eating in someone’s house. We were all served at about 7:30 pm. Four girls who tried for a table at 8:30 were turned away with raised eyebrows. The Patron and his wife obviously decided that three covers was ample business for an evening. We had a very relaxed, charming and unhurried evening vastly improved by the absence of smokers – luck rather than management.
As usual it was the menu which looked great value that attracted us, four courses for 13 euros and wine from 2 euros a glass.
2006. Since finding this restaurant, we have been back for many evening meals, it IS hot in the summer despite the ceiling fans. An enthusiastic review in the New York Times, summer 2006 means reservations are essential to guarantee a table.
Favorite Dish: You will get a very French meal here, you have to hang on to your knife and fork between courses which are served individually, not all lumped together on one plate. This is very typical in France ie to get a bowl of salad leaves dressed well, very simple, THEN a small steak by itself, then a bowl of vegetables. It makes a nice change and you really notice the individual flavours. Portions look small but this is deceptive. At the end of the meal we were all pleasantly full. This was helped by the bread basket which was kept topped up throughout the courses.
The 13 euros menu consisted simply of a choice of four starters, four meat/fish dishes, four vegetable dishes and four puddings one of which was a cheese course.
The best combination in terms of balance and value was the Salad Nicoise starter or ‘assiette anglaise’ (charcuterie) followed by the steak with a bowl of thick soupy ratatouille then the cheese course – a fair-sized chunk of brie with extra bread. If you didn't want cheese, the crème caramel looked good -a slice from a large homemade pie.
Coffee is 1,40 euros and the tiny selection of wine starts from 2 euros a glass for the house red or rose and 7,30 euros for a bottle of house red or rose. A bottle of Cote de Provence is 12 euros. A brandy with your coffee is 4,60 euros.
Chez Palmyre is an authentic, cheap and handy place to eat in the winter – there is no terrace or outside tables, more desirable in the sumer. Not sure of the opening times or days closed. (I suspect this will be an ad hoc arrangement) Best just to walk by and check on the day – you’ll also get to see the daily menu that way.
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Theme: Local
Comparison: least expensive
Phone: 04 93 85 72 32
Address: 5 rue Droite, Old Nice
Directions: At the north end of rue Droite (away from sea) in the Old Town. Around the corner from the pizza restarant - Bar du Coin and a restaurant called Saf Saf. Easy to miss.
From the Cours Saleya, left at the Chateau Hill end of the Cours and up rue Droite.
Website: http://tinyurl.com/umobp
Other Contact: http://www.allaboutnice.com/rest
on Jan 4, 2005
