Nikos and Anna's Taverna, near Rodakino: "Wild landcsape & sea: a hard-to-find hideaway" Crete Island Hotel Tip by Spincat

This is my favourite rooms place in Crete- a simple family taverna, right on the coast.

The rooms are big: marble-floored, large balconies, most with long views along the coast to Plakias. There's a fridge and air-con if you want it (no extra charge at the time of year we went) and a good shower.

The food is delicious but simple home cooking: the kind of thing best enjoyed in the open air. There is plenty of that here: you can sit on the terrace... under a tamerisk ... at tables above the waves. Sit with a drink and see who turns up to add a bit of bustle to this quiet place. The family who run the place are really kind and laid back. You'll come for a day - you'll end up becalmed here for a week.

Unique Qualities: Just beyond the taverna there is a really beautiful headland walk - a clamber in places - to a string of almost totally deserted beaches. A great place to meet goats, spot wildflowers, swim on deserted beaches, see the stars....

There is only a small cluster of houses and rooms near the taverna. The number has grown in recent years and there is now a hotel too, but an unobtrusive one. The hotel does sometimes runs 'retreats' or courses in Tai Chi or similar, so if you see people standing around in strange postures don't worry, they are doing it for their health!

About a kilometre in the other direction there are other tavernas including a good fish taverna, and up the hill are the little villages of Rodakino (Ano and Kato), where there is a supermarket and couple of kafenions.

The beach at Rodakino is of historical interest - it is where the kidnapped General Krieppe was taken off the island (the 'Ill met by Moonlight" story).

Address: Polyrizo, 74060 Rodakino
Comparison: about average
Directions: Road marked 'Koraka beach' at Rodakino, go right at bottom . Don't be disheartened if get lost! Drive for kilometre or so, stop under taverna's tamerisk trees. Bus : Rethymnon to Rodakino, walk possible-ish, ask at Supermarket re taxis.
Phone: 28320-32173
Price: US$40-80
Theme: Pension/Guesthouse