"Leave Kharthoum, If You Can" Sudan Off The Beaten Path Tip by kucha

Most people miss anything outside Karthoum. This could have something to do with the tragic civil war, roaming bands of guerillas, or simply the local government's reticence to issue passes to unsuspecting tourists. Still, if you must go to Sudan and you have your insurance in good order, anything at all is better than the heat and stench and crowds of Khartoum.

Kharthoum's setting at the confluence of the White Nile and Blue Nile and the physical vestiges of the colonial era and of the 1881-1885 Mahdist uprising are wonderful to see. From Khartoum one can drive out into the desert and north to the fascinating ruins of the 3,000-year-old Nubian civilization. One can go for a boat ride on the Nile or walk or run along its banks in the early morning hours before the intense heat tightens its grip on the city.

How about getting further out of the city? I traveled, at great risk and greater discomfort, to the tiny, rural town of Um Rawaba. Today, I cannot even find this village on a map .... and why would I want to? Well, I will say that this visit was the best thing about my visit to Sudan. Great people, friendly smiles, warm hospitality and, most of all, a feeling of hope. I can only pray that hope continues, despite many continuing years of violence and lack of progress in this country.