"THE HIGHPOINT OF PERU IS..." Peru Off The Beaten Path Tip by marko727

Peru Off The Beaten Path: 145 reviews and 156 photos

 
 

<B><font color=firebrick>THE HIGHPOINT OF PERU IS NEVADO HUASCARAN. ELEVATION IS 6768 METERS. HERE IS AN ACCOUNT OF THE CLIMB TAKEN FROM THE WEB: <FONT SIZE=-1>
Huascaran Sur (22,205') is the highest peak in Peru and one of the world's most imposing summits. It offers a challenging ascent requiring intermediate level alpine skills, and an unusual opportunity for climbers who want to make an ascent to very high altitude. For though it stands nearly two thousand feet higher than Mt. McKinley, Huascaran's position at about latitude 9 degrees south spares it from the extremely low temperatures and severe storms that are commonplace in the extreme latitudes.

It is recommended that you acclimatize for about four days in or above Cuzco (11,500). We set our first camp at 12,600 feet and with the help of animals, the next day move up to our second camp at 15,000 feet. The third day takes us to one of the most beautiful mountain camps in all the world, right on the col between Pisco Oesto and Nevado Huandoy. Our route to the summit takes us through interesting crevasse fields and up some 30-35 degree slopes and provides us with spectacular views the whole way. With our gradual ascent, expedition team members should feel good on this climb and upon its completion be well prepared for an attempt on Huascaran.
Glaciers flow down from Huascaran Norte and Sur to a saddle between the two massive peaks, and then off the saddle to the west, first gently and then in a steepening icefall. We avoid the unstable areas of the icefall by traversing under the south summit's western face, climbing moderate ice slopes and short steep sections to reach the shelter of a bergschrund above the icefall where we put our Camp III at 19,600 feet.
On Huascaran Sur, we move to the saddle and then turn up the steeper 30-45 degree north face of Huascaran Sur. The climb finishes with a fine pitch on a 45-degree snow rib which leads right up to the summit plateau. The excitement is great as we make our final steps to the top of the Western Hemisphere's highest summit requiring technical climbing skills, and the views of the Cordillera Blanca, the Cordillera Negra, and out over the Amazon Basin are fittingly magnificent.

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  • Written Aug 25, 2002
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marko727

“every high point!”

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