"Chiosco Bar: A little Pax Romana near the Colosseo" Colosseum Tip by goodfish
Colosseum, Rome: 496 reviews and 946 photos
This is my favorite spot to waste time in all of Rome.
2007: We'd just come limping from the Colosseum (and nine hours on our feet) and were heading through the park across the street when we saw a little kiosk and scattering of tables in a cool, green corner. Sinking gratefully into a couple of chairs, we ordered up a beer and spent a delightful hour or two within view of the ancient arena and the ruins of Nero's Golden House (Domus Aurea.) Our brews came with an attentive waiter and lighthearted chatter from little groups of Italian friends and families seated nearby: grownups sipped coffee and wine in the shade; tiny babies were fussed over and passed around; older children dribbled ice cream and sped around on scooters; lots of laughter... this is still one of my favorite memories of Rome.
We made a beeline here on a return trip in 2012, crossing fingers and toes that it hadn't closed. Not only was it open but our Senegalese waiter from 5 years earlier was still scuttling about with trays of espresso and wine. It was a joyful reunion all around, and Mustafa was very glad to see us - once we jogged his memory.
The best part? It remains virtually undiscovered by the hordes mobbing the pile down the street. We've been here four times (would have been 5 but it's closed on Mondays) and have yet to see or hear another tourist - not that it couldn't happen.
Chiosco has been a park fixture for over 40 years, and you'll find it close to the corner of Viale Della Domus Aurea and Via Mecenate in Parco Colle Oppio. Don't worry about the name of the park as it may not be clearly marked; it's the green space across the street from Colosseum. Best way is to enter the park on Viale Serapide and follow it to the east. The bar is also east of the Domus Aurea ruins, and close to a playground so it's a great place to bring the kids. I'm including a website with a fun write-up from another big fan of this little gem (when it was Pavilion Bar):
Addendum: what with long-awaited weekend tours now available of some restored areas of Domus Aurea, Chiosco will likely be discovered by more tourists: the Parco Colle Oppio excavation is within splittn' distance.
Phone: (+39) 06 39967700
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