"Mangabe I - the "doany experience" to have" Ambohimanga Off The Beaten Path Tip by Norali
Ambohimanga Off The Beaten Path: 9 reviews and 33 photos
I must have a special connection with this hill.
The first hill ever (Ambohimanga apart) I managed to reach the summit although the highest I climbed.
The first doany area where I had a feeling to not be set apart due to my status (I don't believe in the efficiency of pilgriming & asking for blessings at those doany, that pilgrims seemed to not appreciate in Ambatondradama).
The first doany area where I had a feeling not to be pressurized to bring on the money before getting info (such was the case of the lady in Amboatany to whom I asked which King was buried there & which she replied "I need money to take care of the site"...lol). The real doany experience to have is here. Must have spent hours chatting up the guide here, except when he was busy working (: receiving pilgrims & "intermediating" between the latter & Andriantsivongo- the astrologer of King Nampoina who is buried & worshipped on top of Mangabe). Must have spent hours on my first day there & never was I pressured to give bucks. We- he, some of his sons & I- sat in the yard, enjoying the view Northwards & chatted about pilgrims, influent locals (I know some by name for being part of Ambohimanga municipality), politics (it was presidential elections campaign time). He explained about different corners of the doany, the rituals, where & when the zébus to be sacrificed were put to death, which animal to not sacrifice... all kind of info I wanted.
When it was time to leave for some hike on the crest (Mangabe is both the name of the crest & the western part of the crest), he showed me where it was better to walk for me (the beaten path in the high grass). Thanked him for the effort, the kindness, the respect. Given the poor conditions peasants use to live in (those small thatched roofed huts on Pic#4), any bank note is always welcome.
Of course, when I talked about a doany experience to have, it wasn't about practising the rituals there, rather getting insight about them. To practise rituals, one has to believe in them, that I do not.
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