"GBAO - Pamir Permit" Viloyati Mukhtori Kuhistoni Badakhshon Favorite Tip by Trekki
Viloyati Mukhtori Kuhistoni Badakhshon Favorites: 5 reviews and 9 photos
Favorite thing: A permit for Pamir region is essential for any travel within the Pamirs (be it for hiking, mountaineering or any other activity).
Police and Military guys will permanently check you, and if you don’t have it, you will be in bad shape – the less worse thing they’ll do is to fine you. The worse… I don’t know, and I did not try to find out.
GBAO stands for Gorno Badakhshan Avtonomnaya Oblast, or the autonomous region of Gorno-Badakhshan, which was established in 1925 by the Sovjets. The autonomous status remained after independence, but it is still controlled by the russians due to it’s border with Afghanistan. Well, this is politically not correct, it is GBAO people, which control the region, but the further I travelled on Pamir Highway, the more I got the feeling that all is still old times (which theoretically I cannot judge, but…. my Karakul experience was enough to make me not want to know more…)
Well, GBAO permits nowadays are issued by a lot of agencies, some being reliable, some not much. I got mine through Traveltajikistan, for GBP 35, plus GBP 0,53 for using creditcard as payment.
I got a scan copy via mail, just before I left, and picked up the original in Dushanbe.
Update, April 22, 2007:
In the meantime I got the information that Stantours is only charging 40 USD for the permit, as opposed to 70 USD = 35 GBP, TT is charging. So even no reason anymore to get the permit through this rip-off TT - ha !
Fondest memory: When you order the permit, make sure you have all 7 GBAO regions listed there. There is no difference in the price, but you might experience problems when a region, you are travelling in, is not listed on your permit.
On mine, you can see:
Хорог = Khorog
Ванч = Vanj
Рушан = Roshan
Ишкашим = Ishkashim
Мургаб = Murghab
It also shows the date, in my case July 15 to August 25.
Missing is Roshtkala (well, maybe I will ask them why they forgot it.........)
Yes, I can recommend to get the GBAO permit via Traveltajikistan, but otherwise I definitely cannot and will not recommend this “establishment” company for any other service. I have made very bad experience with their so-called other services, it seems that they charge you even for a handshake. More under "warnings & dangers".
I have met trekkers, who got their GBAO permit in Dushanbe, from a local reliable agency. As soon as they are back, I'll get their recommendation and publish it here.
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