"Dealing with hassle in souks" Tunisia Tourist Trap Tip by maykal

One of the main complaints from foreign visitors to Tunisia is about being hassled by shopkeepers in the souks. I've heard things like "Tunisians are horrible people", opinions based on nasty experiences while out shopping. What can I say....um, well it probably is true of some shopkeepers in touristy markets. They drag you unwillingly into their shop, try to sell you something, anything, then shout at you for insulting their customs if you refuse to buy. They've taken the traditional art of bartering and intensified it, and added to it various phoney traditions like "you must buy, it is an insult to my family if you don't".

Don't forget that these people, however pushy, have to make a living somehow, and they happen to earn theirs by selling all manner of trash to unsuspecting foreign tourists who are, for the most part, happy to lap it up. When tourists walk past with their mantra of "la shukran" and nobody has bought a stuffed camel all day long, then sales technicques become fiercer and more desperate. Don't base your opinions about Tunisians on these few shopkeepers...head to a souk aimed at locals, and you'll see how bargaining is meant to be carried out...a slow process of banter, sometimes accompanied with tea, and no pressure on the customer to buy...he or she can walk away emptyhanded.

Unique Suggestions: Read the clothing tip above...shopkeepers tend to like pretty women in skimpy outfits, so if you cover up a bit, you can walk through the market with a bit more peace. Don't look at anything in a shop unless you really are willing to buy...a sales assistant will pounce immediately. Use your first trip to find out what is on offer, looking from the corner of your eye, then once you've decided what you want, go back later. There's nothing worse than having an idea what you want, and going into a shop not being able to find it...you know you're going to struggle to come out empty-handed, and before you know it, you've bought a hideous painting of a smiling camel.

My guidebook recommended going to the special handicraft shops owned by the ONAT (Office National de l'Artisanat Tunisien or something), which have fixed prices on all goods and the shopkeepers don't hassle you. Souvenirs here are more expensive than in the souks, but it will give you an idea what is available and how much is too much.

Dealing with the hassle...you can try various techniques, but none work very well. Ignoring is probably the best. It might seem rude, but I am now deaf to words like "Welcome in my shop" "Kommen sie hier" and "Venez monsieur, vous voulez acheter quelquechose pour madame?". If i find myself in a tourist market, I never make eye contact with the shopkeepers unless I am on the hunt for souvenirs. I also don't speak English, French, German or Italian, only some bizarre dialect from a country they've never heard of. "La shukran" meaning "no thanks" doesn't really have much effect, as you've already formed a bond between you and the shopkeeper by speaking, and he will jump on it. Some offer their hands as you walk past, but only the foolish shake them. Don't be taken in by any openers such as "Hey I know you, my friend, we met before, you remember?"...99% of the time, you've never crossed paths before.

Fun Alternatives: Don't limit your wanderings to souks in tourist resorts. They are geared up for tourists and tourists alone. Make a trip to another town to find out what a real souk is. Tunis has many touristy souks, but dive into a backstreet leading off these, and you'll be in another world completely...ok, you might not want to buy anything on offer, but you will meet Tunisians who won't drag you into their shop. Sfax is another great place for hassle-free souks, just two hours south of Mahdia. There are also one or two souvenir shops in Sfax, but because of the complete lack of tourists, the shopkeepers are yet to learn the forceful sales techniques of their cousins further up the coast. Souvenirs sold here are usually made in Sfax, rather than imported from Morocco, Egypt or China.