Darband: "Siping on Chai, smoking ghelyoon..." Tehran Nightlife Tip by Karmacholo

Iran is not the place to go out and dance at night, at least not in a club. So, if you are not invited to a party, you should take advantage of being in this city on the foot of the Alborz Mountains.

In northern Tehran, just above Tajrish Square and at the beginning of a popular hiking track, is the night spot location called Darband (or Sar-e Band).

It is a collection of street-side cafes and open air restaurants that will show you the real side of Iran. In a relax atmosphere, dining on flat benches covered with Kilims, you will be served all kinds of Kababs, Yoghurt drink and dips, and can smoke your ghelyoon (Water pipe) while drinking some real good tea.

People are all around you, real Tehranis from all walks of life, taking advantage of their off time, enjoying life with their families, or scores of youth walking around, talking and laughing loud, and sampling the candies and sour delicacies offered by the street side vendors.

Iranians stay up late and start late on going out. So, don't expect things to get busy and interesting before 10 PM.

Almost all restaurants serve the same quality food. The further up you go, the more chic and expensive they become, and more "modern". I like the midrange ones that have their benches by the water and serve you in their gardens! It is just great!

Dress Code: However you like, but if interested in meeting interesting people, don't wear your work clothes or that work jeans. It is a casual place.

Address: Darband Sq., at the end of the Darband Street
Directions: Just take a taxi from Tajrish and tell them to drop you off at Darband.
Theme: Eating and Drinking