The Ultimate French Trilogy in the Marais and other Paris, France Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant Name: Pain, Vin, Fromage

We arrived on a Friday night at around 2000 to discover that they were "reservations only" through 2230. The smell of the delectable cheeses and other preparations was so good that we had to make reservations for the following night.

We were quickly seated upon our arrival on Saturday and were presented English and French menus and the obligatory basket of bread. Though we sat in upstairs, the restaurant offers a dining area in its downstairs wine cellar.PVF offers glasses of a few of their wines but we chose a bottle of a tasty 2000 Bordeaux from their somewhat extensive wine list. To accompany our selection, we chose a cheese flight highlighting the different regions of France along with a platter of cured meats. The restaurant offers a variety of fondues, salads, breads, and other "wine foods" to complete your experience.

To say the staff was friendly would be inaccurate. The same gentlemen who made our reservation, welcomed and seated us, presented the menus and delivered our order was the only person in the dining area. Though crowded, he was efficient, extremely friendly and knowledgeable.

For all you pain, vin and fromage lovers out there this Marais restaurant is a must.


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Theme: Wine Bar/Wine Tasting
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$21-30  » Currency Converter
Phone: 01 42 74 07 52
Address: 3, Rue Geoffrey L'Angevin 75004

Restaurant Name: Pain de Sucre

Wow. I stumbled upon this place on my way back to my apartment when I noticed a line of locals awaiting their entrance into this fine establishment. After stopping in essentially every patisserie and sampling their macarons I HAD to see what Pain de Sucre's fuss was all about. Those delectable disks sandwiching the lightest creamy fillings I had experienced came in a variety of mouthwatering flavors. My favorite? Caramel. So good were these confections that they lured me back the next day to purchase multiple sampler packages as presents upon my return to New York.


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Theme: Dessert
Comparison: about average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: 14 Rue Rambuteau 75003
Directions: Metro: Rambuteau
Website: http://www.patisseriepaindesucre.com/

Restaurant Name: Bertillon

Bertillon was on my must-do list on my March 2008 trip. I wouldn't go as far as saying that it was worth the trip across the Atlantic but it is by far one of the creamiest, heavenly things I have ever tasted. Tucked away in one of the more charming areas in the city this institution lived up to every expectation with it's masterfully created treats, friendly staff, and outstanding service. It was 10am, raining and cold but ironically, this treat in a cone warmed me up and prepared me for the rest of my morning in Paris.

Though they provide creative flavors like blood orange I chose a classic flavor for a classic place: vanilla. Never again will I have my favorite ice cream flavor without comparing it to the one produced by this remarkable place.

Ice cream shop is an understatement. It's in a class of its own.


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Theme: Ice Cream
Comparison: least expensive
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Directions: Ile St Louis Get off at metro Cité and walk past Notre-Dame to get to Ile St Louis. You can also get Bertillon ice cream on Champs Elysees (102 avenue des Champs Elysees).

Restaurant Name: Chez Denise

Chez Denise was another must-do on my March 2008 trip and in keeping with all the great reviews, it was spectacular. We walked in at 2pm, one hour before their lunch service ended. Despite the reviews I've read where reservations were highly recommended, we were quickly seated. The place is small, cozy and intimate and to my surprise not touristy at all. We ordered two main courses: the haricot de mouton (24 euros) and the foie de veau l'anglais (25 euros) and a bottle of the house Bordeaux (25 euros). Both plates were wonderfully created and presented in an unpretentious fashion. The hearty haricot de mouton was an exceptionally great choice in that it was comforting in what was a cold and rainy day. The portions were large and depending on your appetite each plate can easily serve two. Lunch ended with an enormous serving of baba au rhum which we split between the both of us.

The kitchen closed promptly at 3pm after which the chef walked into the dining area to speak with us.

Friendly, efficient. Worth every euro


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Theme: French
Comparison: more expensive than average
Prices: US$31-40  » Currency Converter
Address: 5, rue des Prouvaires 75001
Website: 01.42.36.21.82

Restaurant Name: Paul

Paul is a network of boulangeries/pattiseries throughout France. We stopped into the location on the corner of Rue de Rivoli and r. du Temple for breakfast -- with 34 locations throughout Paris alone it's quite possible that you'll come across one. As a matter of fact, I saw a couple in CDG terminal two. But don't let this commercial institution fool you as what could possibly be among some of the best bread I've had in Paris is sold here. Induldge in the viennoiseries and pastries. (I had an exquisite pistachio macaron on the way out).

Breakfast of orange juice, flute w/ butter and jam, and coffee was about 7 euros.

Friendly, quick, efficient service.


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Theme: Bakery
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$11-20  » Currency Converter
Address: several locations throughout Paris. see link below
Website: http://www.paul.fr/uk/histoire.php

Restaurant Name: rue de la Huchette

Not an original entry here but it's definitely worth noting. Located between Place St-Michelle and r. St-Jaques in the 6me, this livley, touristy, theme-park-like street is lined with budget friendly dining options ranging from half a dozen institutions claiming "the best falafel in Paris" to an abundance of creperies and intermittent bars serving beers by the pitcher.

Rue de la Huchette was uncomfortably crowded for my taste -- but not so uncomfortable where I didn't refrain from eating half of a mediocre overcooked honey and almond filled crepe.


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Theme: Fast Food
Comparison: least expensive
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: metro: St-Michelle
Directions: between Place St-Michelle and r. St-Jaques in the 6me

Restaurant Name: Cafe de Flore

It's a little more pricey than the average cafe but one goes here to experience living history. Sartre, Camus, and Picasso are just a few of the great people in history that frequented this joint. Though the Art Deco interior was cool and inviting, the rush hour walkers outside along the very busy St-Germain-des-Pres indirectly lured me to sitting outside to watch. Just watch.

I've read in several travel logs that intellectuals and a few famous people find their way to this place. I don't know about that but the guy who sat next to us was immediately followed and surrounded by paparazzi. Or were they taking pictures of me?


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Theme: Coffeehouse
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$11-20  » Currency Converter
Address: Boulevard St. Germain