"Brings new meaning to the word "quiet"." Castagneto Carducci by cliff.l
Castagneto Carducci Travel Guide: 7 reviews and 24 photos
Castangneto Cardiucci is a very pretty town in typical Tuscan colours of ochre and faded yellows. It is inhabited mainly by elderly ladies and fat tom cats. It has the most pathetic market in the whole of Europe, about half a dozen stalls selling cheap knickers and cleaning products, along with jumble sale type tops at €30 (!) a time. It was quite amusing seeing wave after wave of tourists hopefully going into the square and coming back with expectations disappointed, having to palm their children off with a visit to one of the local cafes.
As you walk into the "centre", you will be assailed by a lady who will assume that you're German, and be dragged into her shop to buy ice cream. The ice cream is delicious even if the marketing techniques are a bit irksome.
There are several enotecas where you can eat and drink, or just try the superb local wine...although at a cost. The one on the main square charges €5 a glass. He told me to sit outside and he'd bring me something to eat. Looking forward to a little dish of something local, I was presented with a dish of bits of crostini of a tooth-cracking hardness. The one further up the road, just after the post box, charges €7 (!) a glass and is full of large Germans who don't notice the prices. This is more expensive than in central Pisa.
Far the best thing in Castagneto Carducci is a new "pub" (non-English people never use this word properly) serving four outstanding beers at €3.60 / 33cl which are brewed in Pisa by the two friendly, chatty owners, young men who bring the beer over twice a week. In a country where the beer is as rubbish as the wine is excellent, this is a very welcome development. Two of the beers are organic. You can't drink Moretti after tasting this.
The town is very quiet, in fact more or less dead between midday and about 5 ish. Food in the very small Spar, amusing locally branded as "Despar", is very expensive.
Taxi fares locally are absolutely jaw-dropping. The 5km from Donoratico to our campsite cost €20, and then to get to the station with luggage was going to be €40, which is so high I suspect something dodgy going on. We got the bus instead and for five people it cost €6 in total.
It's a most attractive little place, but there really is absolutely nothing to do apart from eat and drink. Nothing wrong at all with that, but the almost oppressive quiteness of the place slighty bored me after a week or so.
- Pros:Pretty houses, fab beer place
- Cons:No actually useful shops, laughable market, nothing to do
- In a nutshell:Will come back when I'm 90 and am happy to sit stroking a cat all day
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