Boston Off the Beaten Path Tips by vivalasteph

Dividing the areas between Back Bay and Brookline is the Fens, part of Boston's Emerald Necklace, originally designed by Frederick Law Olmstead to enhance the green space within the city.

The Fens includes the Muddy River Reservation, with preserved wildlife, a beautiful co-op garden, rose garden, baseball field, basketball courts, and pleasant walking paths. You can soon forget that you are right in the middle of the city.

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The Fenway Victory Gardens were established in 1942, after President Roosevelt asked cities to provide land for its residents to grow their own vegetables. This is not only the oldest garden, but in fact, the only one still in existence from World War II to the present. The gardens are a continuation of Olmstead's Emerald Necklace.

A stroll through the gardens in the springtime is a joy. Busy gardeners at work, tulips blooming, and the smell of the earth, all the while the skyscrapers loom near by. Gardeners pay only $20 a year to rent their plots, and membership is available exclusively to city residents.

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Phone: (617) 267-6650
Website: http://www.fenwayvictorygardens.com

The Rose Garden in the Fens is a beautiful retreat on a warm, sunny day. The garden was designed by Arthur Shurcliff, and opened in 1930. It contains over 200 varieties of roses, arranged in a circle, with an extended garden with sculptures.

The garden is open to the public from dawn to dusk, and has garden parties, and is available for weddings.

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Website: http://www.emeraldnecklace.org/fenway.htm

Kenmore Square sits at the junction of Commonwealth Ave. and Beacon St., east of the Back Bay. It is a busy square, with a major bus and subway station in the center island. Now home to many chain stores and restaurants, and a new hotel, the Square has undergone a huge redevelopment, though not necessarily a good one for everyone.

Kenmore used to be home to many little clubs and dive bars, and had little used clothing and record stores, and familiar faces looking for spare change. Slightly seedy in the 80's, it was also part of its unique charm. Gone are the days of the hightech disco Narcissus, it has been replaced by The Gap. Gone are the late nights at Charley's Kitchen, a cafeteria style restaurant that was home to the triple cheeseburger plate. Gone are the Saturday mornings at Delihaus, THE place to go for breakfast with mascara still smeared under your eyes.

The biggest loss to the Square is the Rathskellar, dive bar and live music venue extraordinaire. The Rat was the zenith for both local bands, and national and international bands before they hit the big time. It was the first club in America to offer up U2 to the public.

Fortunately, the Citgo sign remains. Almost pulled down several years ago, it was saved by local businesses and serves as a beacon on the city's horizon. Visible along Storrow Dr. as you head west along the Charles, its blinking lights still charm you.

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