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Arequipa is a very beautiful city. And no, it's not because I was born there that I see it with such proud eyes. I mean, I am very critical of the society that inhabits the city, but if the city were to lay on its own, free from the abuses of people, it would undoubtedly be perfect. It lays in a valley, surrounded by volcanoes, the most majestic being the cone shaped Misti. The Misti sits in the middle of the Pichu Picchu to its right and the Chachani to its left.

Not long ago, it was a common site for the Misti to be snow capped; the snow even went down below its waist, but thanks to global warming, the Misti has had to go naked and rid itself of the snow hat and skirt as they melt again and again. Misti's friend to the right, the Pichu Picchu, who had a perpetual snowy summit, is also suffering from the detrimental climate change. Only the Chachani is retaining its white icy outfit.

In terms of Arequipa's weather, I think it is perfect. Dry climate, if you venture out of the valley you would think you have reached the Sahara desert. The city itself, due to its high altitude-2,380 meters M (7,740 feet FT) during the day time the intense sun can make it seem like it is 80 degrees, but in the shade a nice cool breeze can cool one off really quickly. It can get a bit chilly at night, especially during the winter months of June-August, but even the coldness is not very extreme. The most I have seen it go down has been 30 degrees. So, for practical purposes bring a pair of shorts, t-shirt, sweater, jeans, sandals and shoes/hiking shoes. A hat and sun block is also a must. During the day you can wear shorts, t-shirt and sandals, and at night jeans, long sleeve shirt, sweater and even a wool/alpaca hat during the winter months (June-August).

In terms of its food, Arequipa has some really good and unique cuisine. But, there are three things that you must try if you make it there: its avocados (paltas as they are called in Arequipean Spanish); its cactus pear fruit called locally "tuna" which you can try its three varieties: green, orange and purple. These are sold in markets or by local women on the streets who keep them in baskets and they will peel them for you right there and then for 1 sol per tuna; and a fresh fruit juice made with the local papaya called Papaya Arequipeña. This type of papaya is not good as a fruit on its own, but delicious in juice, so don't try to eat it off the vendor stand.

Another good and local snack to try are the salteñas. These are pastries like empanadas filled with a meat like stew. They are juicy and served warm. Arequipeños usually wake up very early and will most likely have an early breakfast of tea or coffee, juice and a buttered roll. So, at around 10:30am they get hungry and will eat a salteña accompanied by a Kola Escocesa (a local purple Arequipean gasified soda/pop. Kola Escocesa has been produced by a company called Yura since the 1950s using mineral water from the town the co. is named after-Yura, a town not far from the city); or can be eaten accompanied by a freshly made jugo de frutas (fruit juice).

If you are into trying traditional things, go to El mercado de San Camilo (go with very little money and during the day). There you will see many traditional foods, meats, even herbs, and objects to conjure magic. Try drinking a freshly made juice at one of the many fruit stands. They use boiled water so you will be fine. Just to make sure ask them if the water "esta hervida".

For the best and perhaps most unique eating experience try hitting up a local picanteria. These are traditional eateries that in their most traditional sense will still cook all the food using wood burning stoves and are family-owned. Traditionally, farmers would gather to eat at these establishments and accompany their meals drinking chicha de jora. A must try if you are eating at a picanteria. Chicha de jora is served in a large class and its preparation requires several steps, including sprouting corn kernels and barley and fermenting them overnight, which yields a slightly viscous drink that tastes something like sparkling cider.

Around the city of Arequipa you will find traditional towns (they are districts really, of the city) such as Huaranguillo, Sachaca and Tiabaya. These places host traditional picanterias. You will find picanterias in the center too, but be careful where you go, nowadays picanterias are trendy and you can find very fancy ones that are not the real thing and are expensive. My grandfather used to say that if there were flies in a picanteria then it was the real deal. If you want to savor the country side, where tourists don't really go, a place that is safe and certainly off the beaten path but where you can also find a large array of picantarias then go to Huaranguillo. Its very easy to get to Huaranguillo from Cayma. A brown bus heading to Pampa de Camarones along Av. Quinoñez will take you for .60 centimos and its about a 10 minute bus ride (you can take this bus across the street from the mega store "Saga", ask the driver if they go to Pampa de Camarones). Take it to the end of the bus' route. You will know you are there because the bus stops and everyone gets off. Get off and get to the main road and make a left onto the main road, then just start walking down this main road. You will find a famous picanteria called Sulu to your right for example. After lunch, walk behind the Sulu restaurant along an unpaved road for the most beautiful view of the volcanoes and the country side. Or, take a cab to Tiabaya or even Sachaca and ask the cab driver to take you to a picanteria tipica.

What to eat at a picanteria: if you are into shrimp try the shrimp chowder called "chupe de camarones"; if you are into chicken try the "Aji de gallina", if you are into exotic dishes try the "cuy chactado" (guinea pig); if you are into duck try the "arroz con pato" (rice and duck); if you are into beef and spice try the "rocoto relleno" (a deveined hot pepper stuffed with ground beef and other things accompanied by a baked potato dish; if you are into lamb try the "seco de cordero"; if you are a vegetarian try the "pastel de papas" (a baked potato and cheese pie) or "soltero de queso" (a salad made of tomatoes, fresh cheese, olives, corn, and habas) or "escribano" (a salad made of spicey pepper called rocoto, tomato, and potatos). And for desert don't leave without eating a "queso helado". This is an ice cream made of different types of milk and it is deeeeelicious. It has no cheese even though you would think it does from its name.

Try to stay away from overpriced and not so good restaurants downtown (the area known as "el centro")along the Calle San Francisco. The area that locals call "el centro" is the area around the Plaza de Armas & the Santa Catalina Convent. Some of the restaurants that you will find along San Francisco (the third and fourth block) even call themselves picanterias but they are just fancy restaurants that cater to tourists and their food is not even that good. Believe me, I have tried most of them. But, if you are into nice places and want to chill out in a nice place that is not too expensive if you are coming with dollars or Euros then the ambience is nice (full of tourists and Elite Arequipenios). San Francisco street is a good area for night life though (bars, dancing, pool, karaoke, etc.). For western type food try El Turco, they have great middle eastern food.

For western type coffee and deserts (food too) try walking along the first block of the street called Mercaderes and you will see in order of appearance"El Manolo", "Capriccio" which also has another cafe in Cayma, and "el Patio del Ekeko".

The area known as the Colca Canyon is amazing. If you come to Arequipa then it is worth the visit. There are many tour operating companies that offer inexpensive trips to the Colca Canyon. My advise to you, if you can spare a few days, is to take the trip that includes a hike down the oasis and through Cabanaconde. This is certainly the most unique experience, but it does involve some moderate hiking, so if this is not your cup of tea then the traditional tour will have to do.

The traditional tour involves being picked up early in the morning by the tour operator and morning travel to the town of Chivay, the first town in the area, where most likely you will spend one night. Along the way you will see many amazing sites and animals. You will also see how vast and empty some parts of the earth are. Have you reached the moon? you may wonder along the way. When you reach the highest part in the journey (they will let you know you are at the highest altitude), make sure you put one rock on top of another and then another and make wishes as the locals do.

Then you will start descending onto the town of Chivay which is where you will most likely spend the night. First you will be taken to your hotel and then somewhere for lunch in Chivay, then you will hit the hot springs in that town, which I highly, highly recommend, then will probably have the afternoon free to wonder around and be taken to a place for dinner where a band will play traditional music.

The following morning you will be taken to see the Condors in El Mirador del Condo, stopping along the way traditional towns. You will probably spend an hour or so at El mirador and turn around and get back to the city of Arequipa. This tour can run around $35-60 dollars.

If you can spare a few more days, take them and spend a an extra night in the area. You will never see anything else like it.

Peru is a centralized country, meaning in order to visit any of the departments in Peru you must first land in Lima. From Lima take a 15 hour bus (Ormenio or Cruz del Sur offer the best service on sleeper coach) or take a 50 minute flight to Arequipa. If you are interested in seeing sites along the coast from Lima go down to see the Nazca lines and then from there take another bus to Arequipa. Sometimes you can get $30-50 dollar flights from Lima to Arequipa going on the Lan Peru website. If not, you are looking to spend from $70-100 one way. From Arequipa you can take a bus to Puno and make your way from there to Cusco or before reaching Cusco, go to Bolivia. The town of Copacabana in Bolivia is beautiful. A nice hotel to stay in Copacabana is La Cupula. 00 591 2862 2029
E-Mail: bolivia@hotelcupula.com - Calle Michel Perez 1-3
Website: www.hotelcupula.com

If you want to see the southern Amazon, I recommend you go to Purto Maldonado and see the Manu or Tambopata jungle from Cusco where a 30 minute flight can get you there. It is best to hire a company in Cusco, but if you are the adventurous type, traveling without a family then get to Puerto Maldonado and at the airport haggle your way into a nice lodge. The deeper in you get on a boat the better it will be.

If you are into visiting the central Andes. Begin in Lima and take a bus to Huancayo. From there visit the towns of Tarma, if it's during the month of May, don't forget to go to Muruguay where they host the longest party in Peru where you will see traditional dances, music and overall festivities. If local people offer you a glass of beer be grateful, drink the class and leave a tiny sip to share it with the pachamama (mother earth), so your last sip you throw on the ground. People stand around in a circle and share a bottle of beer by the glass. If you dry the bottle it is your turn to buy the next round. From Tarma you can get to Junin, Cerro de Pasco, San Pedro de Cajas or head up the jungle.

If the mountains and coast are more your thing. Starting in Lima take an 8 hour bus to Huaraz (the Switzerland of Peru), then take a bus to the coastal town of Trujillo (far but not impossible). Trujillo is a lovely city with a beach town called Huanchaco. From Trujillo head up north to Piura. Piura itself is not very nice, but the adjacent town of Catacaos is really neat. From Piura try to get to Mancora, a beautiful sea, white beaches and the best surfing ever. From Mancora you can reach Punta Sal by taking a combi for the day. Punta Sal has amazing beaches but it is a bit more expensive than Mancora. The weather up there is warm year round. From Mancora and Punta Sal you can continue north to Ecuador. Ecuador has also a nice beach town called Montanita, but I prefer Mancora. In Ecuador also visit Loja, the town of eternal youth.

I have traveled extensively throughout Peru by myself and recently have traveled from Arequipa down to Puno, Bolivia and Cusco by bus with my partner and six month old daughter. She was by far the youngest backpacker but she did great. She was a hit in Machu Picchu where Japanese tourists asked if they could take her picture.

Like every where else, always be aware of pick pockets. But if you are smart, don't show off your wealth, and are considerate and precautious you will be fine. Even though I have ventured by myself throughout Peru I have never been or felt alone and have always felt safe. You will always meet interesting and kind souls that want to meet you.

If time allows, I will post separate entries for different parts of Peru I have visited as I have almost always gone off the beaten path.

I hope you enjoy my county and feel free to ask me questions. I have also traveled extensively in Ecuador, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, the United States and many parts of Europe.

We currently reside in Argentina where I am working on finishing my doctoral dissertation on topics related to Education Policy.

In addition to traveling I am passionate about social justice, especially language and cultural rights; the Quechua language, culture and spirituality; producing documentaries; writing; nature; hiking; the ocean; and dancing.