I loved Wadi Rum, the only down side is that I used Aouda Abdillah as a guide. He is listed on the great Jordan Jubilee web site. I'm thinking he may have paid for that spot as he's a liar and thief.
In an email he promised to be my personal guide on the trip. When I got there he gave me to his younger brother who only spoke a few words of english. He then claimed he never agreed to be a guide and only offered to provide a driver. I have the email so he was lying. His brother was a terrible guide. He did not take me to many sites (eg the map of wadi rum in the cave). He took me to a few places where he would get out of the truck and then lay down and nap for 20-30 minutes. On a 5-6 hour trip they provided no food or water. I heard great things from other travellers who had better guides. they were also provided with simple but cooked meals and water. My driver could not answer questions or carry on the simplest of conversations. The best i got is that he would point at something and say "Bridge 1" or "Bridge 2". After the trip when I met him again I complained about these things, not loudly or aggressively but letting him know i was disappointed. At which point he became verbally abusive and confrontational.
Aodeh Abdulla Al Zlapeh
Desert Service, Camping, Hiking and Camel Trips
Wadi Rum Village - Aqaba, Jordan
mobile: + 962 (0)79 5617902
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At Least Do This: Wadi Rum is one of the top sites in Jordan. Try to get a personal recommendation from someone who's been and enjoyed their guide.
Alternative: I don't believe there is an alternative. You pretty much need a guide to see this area.