The Redcliffe Peninsula is only about 39km from central Brisbane. While the initial drive via Newstead and Hamilton offer picturesque views of the Brisbane River, the wholly inadequate Gateway Motorway could have you chomping at the steering wheel in heavy traffic!
If you're getting really mad with the M1, the Nudgee Rd turnoff leads to a modern oasis complete with Uncle Tony's Kebabs, McCafe, Red Rooster and Coles Express. Use the ATM's to cash up - as many of the smaller boutique cafes on the edge of Moreton Bay staunchly resist the growing tide of plastic money.
Having stopped, you could divert to Nudgee Beach and see Brisbane's (luckier) dogs cavorting in the waves, or drive a bit further to the Tabbil-ban Dhangun Mangroves for a walk along the boardwalk. However, beware of midges! These bastards are more persistent than Hillary Clinton in a presidential nomination race and they pack a much, much nastier bite!
Onwards towards Redcliffe, the Shorncliffe pier provides scenic views of Redcliffe and the Moreton Bay islands. A coast-hugging walkway heads north towards Sandgate, which boasts an old world Town Hall and Post Office.
Even my usually languid teenage son, who would in most instances only sneer in condescending contempt at momentous world happenings, exclaimed in wonder at the marvel of the Hornibrook and Houghton highways stretching across the blue waters of Bramble Bay towards Redcliffe peninsula. While Hornibrook has been closed for traffic since 1979, it is a popular cycling, walking or fishing destination.
We circumnavigated Woody Point to pay our respects at the final resting place of the Gayundah shipwreck. Having parked near the confluence of Villa Street and Gayundah Esplanade, we trudged south past three hardy fisher-folk; rods bending, lines taught and muscles bulging as they optimistically tried to reel in the rocky Moreton Bay seabed.
Coming face-to-face with the rusting hulk of the Gayundah was quite an experience. Scuttled in 1958 to form a breakwater, Gayundah served a long and distinguished career. Launched on 13 May 1884 at Newcastle upon Tyne, England, the gunboat - armed to the gunnels with 200mm breach-loading 12 tonne and 152mm 4 tonne guns - arrived in Brisbane on 28 March 1885: and promptly triggered the first mutiny in Australian naval history!
Loath to relinquish his charge, ship captain Townley-Wright moored in Brisbane river and threatened parliament house. A Queensland police boarding party soon restored order and the Gayundah embarked on a seven year stint of active duty.
Having sated our camera's memory cards, we proceeded towards the first in a string of narrow beaches kissing Moreton Bay. Scotts Point and Margate Beach is obviously a favourite among Redcliffe's octogenarians. We saw quite a few old codgers plunging into the whitecaps. Good on 'em!
Suttons Beach was a different kettle of fish. Verdant grass lawns, white sand and calm water makes this an ideal location for the family with adorable little snotty-nosed angels. My angel no longer has a snotty nose, which has migrated from his bowser to his attitude and he sat in superior isolated splendour on the gritless grass while I ventured onto the gritty sand.
I turned the tables though, when we arrived at the Settlement Cove Lagoon! Having left his costume in the car, "I'm not gonna swim!", I joyously and gracefully dived into the azure pool, cleaving the cool white-capped water with powerful strokes. Okay, perhaps that's a bit of poetic license, but the water was very nice!
Refreshed, we drove on to the Redcliffe jetty: a weird looking construction with a sheltered rotunda midway and two mooring arms jutting into the bay. A human made breakwater forms a protective sheath around the point of the jetty, providing a safe haven for watercraft.
Our last stop before heading back for Brisbane was the red cliffs of Scarborough off Landsborough Avenue. Lovely isolated beach with rust-red cliffs rearing towards the blue sky... |
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