Name of Shop: Sawalha Oriental Folklore
This place looked similar to many other souvenirs shops scattered around the St. George Church. What made it stand out was the exceptional hospitality and calm-radiant personality of its owner, Yussef Sawalha. And if you didn’t enter, you would never know what you have missed.
I entered there to buy a Shemagh scarf for my dad. And instead of giving me a standard “5JD” answer (which is an average charge for such a scarf for anyone who looks like a tourist), he asked me what kind of quality do I need, and showed me all options he had – from the cheapest for 2JD to the finest quality for 6JD. I chose one in the middle range. I wanted to try the scarf on (which I thought would be fun for the sake of picture), but he instead offered me to try a beautiful embroidered Bedouin women dress saying: “I want this to be one of your fondest memories of Jordan.” He gave me a beautiful black linen dress with red and green embroidery (to match my eyes) and helped me with a three-layer face niqab (a tricky, and time-consuming effort). And for couple minutes I could experience how it feels (dress-wise) to be a very religious Arabic woman: it is hot and you can’t see much. But it was really a very special experience.
Then, in a while, after browsing though other shops looking for a carpet, I came back to look at his carpets. And again, he asked me: what quality of carpets I want: made in Madaba (which looked rough, Bedouin style) or ones made in Egypt (finer wool, softer look). His prices were two-folds less than for the same staff in the Carpet City (a shop around a corner). and when I asked him why, he answered: “when I started my business, I simply decided to be fair.”
When I was leaving the shop, he gave me a little ceramic coaster as a present, which fell off and broke (for good luck :) when my friends were taking a look on the carpet I have bought. Well, he crossed the street and gave me another one. This indeed turned to be one of the fondest memories from my trip to Jordan, which I will remember and treasure about this particular day in Madaba. I have just one regret: I wish I have bought that dress ;)
What To Buy: embroidered dresses; scarfs; carpets; cushion covers; ceramics
What To Pay: the price will depend on what you buy; but be assured - you will get the fairest price
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Theme: Local Craft
Address: Hussein bin Ali Street
Directions: on the right hand at the beginning of Hussein bin Ali Street, not far from St. George Church