Prague Off the Beaten Path Tips by sandysmith

Prague has so many architectural styles and detail to admire but this gothic portal - just off the beaten path of the old town square was a favourite. This House at the Two Golden Bears has the finest carved Renaissance portal. To find it leave the old town sqare by narrow Melantrichova St (undergoing repairs during our stay) and then turn into first alleyway on left.

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A little alley at the side of Tyn Church, past the street sellars, leads to the Ungelt courtyard. (Ty'n 2. Prague 1) There is a great coffee house here - Ebel's serving freshly brewed coffee - a great place to pause for a break off for the city sights and regather your energies. A good Jazz club is in this area too.

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Website: www.ebelcoffee.cz

Too often people are intent in crossing the Charles Bridge that they miss the steps down into the lovely quiet square of Na Kampe. If these steps look familiar its because they were used in the Mission Impossible film

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The area of Kampa Island - fomred by a tributary of the River Vltava - is a surprisingly peaceful haven from the jostling crowds on the bridge just above. Its surrounded by several restaurants and hotels - actually a pleasant place for a quiet lunch.

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Any area like Kampa Island because it has a few canals is coined "Little Venice". Well I wouldn't stretch as far as that (its no comaparison to the real Venice) but its still a pleasant place to stroll away from the crowds - and I got my customary reflection picture ;-)

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The stretch of water from the River Vltava is known as the Devil's channel and used to activate the waterwheel on the mill. The waterwheel can still be seen but its barely functional and we were fortunate to see it moving one day of our visit.

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Just behind Na Kampe is the quiet odd shaped Maltese Square -with its embassy of course. There are some nice restaurants and pubs here as well as the grand buildings and fountain in the centre. Just nearby is the Church of our Lady beneath the Chain. This is the oldest church in the Little Quarter - being founded in the 12th century. Churches sem to have such odd names here but this one reflects that there was a chain in the Middle Ages to close off the monastery gatehouse. The church was presented to the Knights of St John (the Maltese Order). This is reflected in the lovely portal and gate of the chuch - please enlarge pic to see the detail of the knights on the grille work and the maltese cross above the door.

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This wall has constantly changing graffitti on it. It began around the time of the Beatles popularity - hence Lennon Wall - and people would write slogans here in rebellion against communism.

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As mentioned before Mala Strana is home to so many embassies in very ornate buildings but the most elaborate is the Geman one at 19 Vlasska (Italian Street) Notice the lovely formal gardens laid out at the rear. You can peep at them through the courtyard but for a better view carry on up the street - past the embassy and into a small park where there is an entrance to a lane alongside Petrin Hill which runs alongside the back of the embassy. The beautiful rear facade of the building can also be seen as well as a historical piece of artwork - see next tip.

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The gardens of the German Embassy were invaded in the summer of 1989 by thousands of East Germans who then proceeded to camp out there whilst seeking West German citizenship. Their treasured trabants were left in the surrounding streets of Mala Strana, as trains were laid on to take them into West Germany. This flood of refugees led to the collapse of the Berlin Wall. To mark this historical occassion a Golden Trabant on legs can be seen in the garden - the Quo Vadis ? - a modern sculpture by David Cerny.

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