| Page Views: 1,348 Last Visit to Japan: April, 2005 | Japan visit - in synopsis by unaS - last update: Jan 21, 2008 |
Trip and Arrival I am sitting here in Tokyo at 3.15 am. The computer keeps switching me to Japanese LOL.
The new Terminal 3 at Ben Gurion airport is large, airy and nice. Good open smoking sections, not like the old closed-in tiny room similar to the BKK airport smoking rooms.
I had determined in advance to take only a carry on because of the change from El Al to Japan Air in Bangkok. Managed to get everything I need into 12 kilo only by ruthlessly discarding all kinds of little 'essentials'. Then ... I am told that only 8 kilo is allowed as hand luggage! Ooofff! Lots of talk and convincing - finally allowed because of need to change planes and airlines - Whew!
Lovely surprise on board. The plane is half-empty and I have a row of three seats all to myself! Stretched out and didn't have to worry about cramped legs. Nice! At BKK airport had a lovely foot massage. 1/2 hour for 400 baht, about US$10.
JL air - Surprise again! Same situation. Three seats all in a row empty for me to stretch out on. Only now I am in formal Japanese atmosphere, not relaxed, informal "family" atmosphere as on El Al. Have to consider if they would be insulted by me treating the plane like home and stretching out, so I didn't - until I saw Japanese people doing just that to sleep. So I did too.
The food was very good but I tried a special soya sauce on the tray for the cold noodles - HOT!!! Glad that there was a cup of water and a yoghurt on the tray too!
Landed at Narita - now more than 36 hours without sleep. Suddenly discovered that I no longer had my camera! I inquired at the Lost and Found at the JL offices in Narita - it wasn't found in the cabin. So I must have lost it in Bangkok - I really liked that camera. Bought it cheaply at the Duty Free in London more than 10 years ago.
Exhausted had to take the train from Narita to Tokyo. Took the Morning Liner which is less expensive than the Skyliner and makes only 2 extra stops.
Watching scenery as train passes through the countryside. Suddenly realized that I was actually, finally in Japan! WOW!
Had to get off at Ueno-Keisei. Lucky for me it was the last stop Then needed to find the Ginza line - people very nice and all helpful. A long walk underground, but probably seemed longer than it actually was because I was so tired and dragging my luggage, raincoat, a sweater, my duty free purchases...
Managed to make it to the right place and again friendly people told me which train to take. The cars have a map of all the stations which light up to show which station you are at and which one is next! The stations are numbered so you don't have to read the names each time. I found my stop easily, was travelling in the opposite direction of the morning rush-hour crowd and so had no difficulties.
Finding the correct exit and getting upstairs was another story. So tired by now that I tripped and dropped all of my luggage a couple of times. Got upstairs finally and with the help of a great map from the hotel I was here and checking in within 10 minutes.
It is a business hotel. Nice room, good size, excellent light bulb in ceiling plus lamps. My room is in the back of the building - nice and quiet, some greenery outside the window, fridge in the room, hot water kettle, etc. Free bottled water, soaps, shampoo, shower cap and all.
Fell asleep at 11 am and slept till 5.30. Went out to eat. Desk suggested a really good Yakitori place near-by. Fell asleep again at 8 pm till 3 am. Now can't sleep anymore and am sitting here at the computer in the lobby.
At 8 I have a guided tour to Nikko. |
Tokyo Nikko: The Cherry Tree blooming season was over in Tokyo, but the trees on the road up to Nikko were in full bloom. There is a special beauty to the wild cherry trees that only grow on the mountain tops. Saw 300 year old Cedar trees and some fine examples of the typical Japanese Pine that is so often seen in Japanese prints.
The shrine at Nikko is impressive. Wooden carvings 8-9 hundred years old gilded with a thin layer of real gold. The Japanese Phoenix that could visit only in time of peace.
A gorgeous GONG!!! Very low tone that carries for miles! It is rung using a clapper on the end of a long rope that requires real strength to pull.
On to the Lake and Kegon Falls - an extinct volcano, 1,300 meters high. The climb up that steep turning, twisting road is fantastic. So narrow and steep that there are two different roads for traffic climbing and traffic descending.
At breakfast today there were all of the foods provided yesterday plus a tray filled with all kinds of breads. I chose something green with seeds on it - it turned out to be a pastry filled with sweet bean paste. Delicious!
Today went to Kamakura to see the traditional archery (Yabusame) exhibition. The town of Kamakura has lovely narrow old lanes, tiny houses with small, blooming gardens and trees.
The Yabusame itself was exciting. There were long halts between the rides of each of the 4 competitors and again at the end of each round waiting for them to begin the next round. A sudden rush of powerful horses going at top speed, the shot, an arrow singing, crash of the arrow into the masking paper and board to hit the hidden target behind it. I was standing right next to the run-up of the horses, could have reached out and touched them.
Crowds! Crushing, pushing, pressing...Nobody seemed to mind.
Then visited the Hachiman Shrine. Long climb up high steps - worth the effort. Tried the fortune telling sticks. Ended up tying the paper to the straw ropes to ward off the bad part of fortune.
Lunch was okonomiyaki, a non-sweet pancake. The place was a small, dark room with a huge grill and an eating bar around it. Tasty.
Returned to Tokyo and began to search the station - an entire underground city - getting lost makes one feel like Dr. Livingston! Despite excellent signs it is easy to take a wrong turning and lose one's sense of direction.
Found the JR Shinkansen Information counter but...I was sent from there to...and from there to...and from there to... Ooooffff! The ticket I wanted, the Puratto Kodama Economy Plan is considered a tour and not a ticket (Don't ask me why!). Finally I was directed to a tourist agency that sells the Plan and bought my ticket for the Kodama shinkansen to Kyoto. Excellent price, so worth the run-around, but I was oh so tired.
Took another 25 minutes to find the correct subway and then I got on a train going the wrong way! Had to get off at the next station and back track.
Last night tired as I was, I didn't set the alarm clock - whoooops! I slept till 11 am!! I was even more tired than I thought.
Went out for a local breakfast, spent a lazy day. At the local market bought an obento ("lunch box"). They are available everywhere with different kinds of foods. I tried something that I can't remember the name of...a slice of a of rice roll with fish bits, veggies and a bit of hard boiled egg yolk. Also a pouch of dough stuffed with sweetened rice. Tucked into the back of the box was a bit of marinated cabbage. A healthy, delicious lunch for only 550 Yen.
I was still tired and ready for bed early. I have stayed in budget hotels in many countries. This one is probably the best that I have ever stayed at. Friendly, helpful staff free amenities including bottled water, free yukata, a nice room...this hotel has it all.
Visited Sensoji Temple with the 5 storied pagoda. The avenue leading to the temple is lined with kiosks that sell everything!
Tomorrow I leave for Kyoto. |
| Domestic deer taking refuge from the storm. |
Kyoto Strolled around for 1 1/2 hours. Lovely little back streets, tiny houses, very small but bright and cheerful gardens.
Imperial Palace: Very different styles from most simple and plain to the grandiose Shogun style. Gravel surrounds all - raked into patterns of absolutely straight lines. Boggles the imagination of how the gardeners do it!
Kinkaku-ji: The Temple is 3 stories, each done in a different style. The 2 top stories are covered in gold leaf. Surrounded by a quiet lake that reflects the temple like a mirror. Very aesthetic. Nice walks in area with beautiful gardens, trees. No grass, moss covers everything. Quiet, only birds singing since I have left the groups behind.
Ryoanji Temple: Difficult to meditate in Stone garden of Temple. Too many people. Would like to be alone and contemplate life, rock, mosses here... The simplicity and austerity encourage meditation.
Himeji castle: From the station it is pleasant 15 minute stroll to the Castle entrance. This castle is the only original one of that period still standing. It is not replica!!
Kiyomizu-Dera Temple: In addition to main Temple is made up of supplementary Temples, Shrines, and gardens. Going downhill in the general direction of the bus took lots of interesting turnings. Discovered Maruyama Park and sat in the sun for a while to watch people and enjoy...
Visited the Jishu Shrine and the 30 meter tall Ryozen Kannon but missed the Yasaka Shrine.
Joined the "Johnny Hillwalker" walking tour. In 5 hours we covered only 3 km. overall distance, going up and down very small lanes. The emphasis is on artists and their homes and on history. We observed some interesting aspects of actual home production, as practiced in Japan, of fans, ceramic work and rope designs.
Took the Kintetsu Rail Express train to Nara. The trip is about 45 minutes, costs 610 Yen o/w. The Tourist Info office at the Nara train station is staffed by very pleasant people. I received a free map and a detailed explanation.
Todaji:
There was a sudden electric storm with pouring rain, thunder and lightening. Everyone ran for cover under the roof of the Great South Gate - including the domestic deer!
The Todaji Temple is impressive. It is a simple, unpainted wooden building - but it is also the largest wooden building in the world. The Buddha and the guardians are meant to overawe. They succeed.
Outside of the buildings there are rolling green fields, small babbling brooks, tiny waterfalls, trees and quiet, quiet, quiet. The school groups were left behind, lovely. Felt the tensions melting away...
One can become "over-shrined". I decided to visit the Nara National Museum.
During the month of April only there are daily performances put on by the Geisha themselves, not the Maiko only as usual. I was lucky enough to get a seat for this afternoon.
First though off to Fushimi Inari. A stiff climb up to the top of the mountain (233 meters), much of it stairs. At least 3 times I thought that I was at the top, then the path that seemed to lead down suddenly started climbing again. When I finally reached the bottom my legs were shaking from exhaustion, had to sit down on a step and stretch them out straight in front of me.
The Cherry Blossom dance made me forget everything. I had an exceptionally good seat - right under the musicians, below the entry walkway of the dancers and just 9 rows from the stage. It was an entrancing performance.
The dance told the story of one entire year from Spring Blossom time in the life of a Geisha. Included an agricultural scene in the summer, a fight between a palace guard and a Samurai, the loneliness and abandonment of winter and of course, the beauty of re-birth in the Spring.
I understood not one word of the minimal amount of dialogue, nor of the songs - but it wasn't necessary. The formal beauty of the dance, the stage scenery done with lights and the costumes made it all comprehensible.
A marvelous finale for my visit to Japan. |
> Add to your Custom Travel Guide [What's This?]
| Pros: | "Pleasant, friendly, quiet, serene, different and interesting." | | Cons: | "Language, Confusing trains, expensive" | | In A Nutshell: | "A marvelous place to visit and experience." |
unaS's Japan Travel Tips
| Overview | Things to Do | | | | Restaurants | Hotels & Accommodations | | | | Nightlife | Off The Beaten Path | | | | Tourist Traps | Warnings Or Dangers | | | Transportation
Tips: 4 - Photos: 2 | Local Customs
Tips: 1 | | | | Packing Lists | Shopping | | | | Sports Travel | General Tips
Tips: 2 |
 Comments for unaS about Japan | | | | |
sourbugger Sat Jul 4, 2009 14:10 UTC
totally agree about jap train tickets - complicated is not the word. the range of fares just from the airport into tokyo is staggering | Ina22Marina Sun Jun 21, 2009 22:59 UTC
Doing MY homework ;-)) Thanks a lot for the transportation tips - I could imagine sorting tickets to be of a challenge... | jumpingnorman Sat Apr 18, 2009 03:31 UTC
I hope the young ones will learn how to respect their elders in Tokyo...in the Philippines, we even have a different way to say "Yes" to our elders. Your intro travelogue is so nice to read, well-written and entertaining... | joiwatani Sun Apr 12, 2009 22:59 UTC
Your story is so nice and pleasant to read. I really enjoyed reading them! |
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