Another first-rate museum. The name is a bit of a misnomer, since most of the exhibits here reflect the life of a member of the ruling elite: shoes inlaid with mother-of-pearl and so on. The displays are nevetheless interesting enough; but the real attraction (as with many museums in Tunisia) is the building itself, in this case the eighteenth-century bey's house. Typically, from the outside it reveals nothing (apart from a rather large door): inside its a beautiful example of islamic domestic architecture, which has been well restored - from close to it's obvious what is original and what is restoration work: step back and you have the impression of what it looked like when built.
As usual, a quiet and harmoniously proportioned space created by building rooms off a central courtyard, tranquil and private and with beautiful tiles and woodwork.
Directions: ..errm, sort of in the south-est end of the medina. I had a (fair) map but really found it just by circling around.
The Great Mosque of Sfax is not difficult to find: it is in the middle of the medina, not quite on the main thoroughfare leadind up from Bab al Diwan: and unusually it announces itself on the outside, with the remarkable series of decorated niches on the eastern wall. What is harder is getting a good view of the equally remarkable minaret, a riot of kufic script in honey-coloured stone. From the surrounding alleys it is fleetingly glmpsed through the awnings and cables. A better view - and a chance to take a photo without getting in anybody's way - can be had by climbing to the terrace of the cafe in the street running east from the mosque's northeastern corner (look for the black and white painted horseshoe arch. Does a good arabic coffee as well.)
If you are at all interested in architecture and building techniques this museum is a must. And if you're not I'd recommend it anyway, since situated as it is in the old kasbah it offers the opportunity to actually walk the ramparts of the medina, giving stunning views. Well worth 2TD (+1 for a camera)
The exhibits are very well presented and informatively labelled, many in English as well as French & Arabic, and the staff are helpful.
Directions: The kasbah forms the south-eastern corner of the medina walls. Entering throug the gate in the walls, the entrance to the museum is on your right.
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