Costa Rica Off The Beaten Path Tips by theo1006

A forest walk with a Maleku guide

The morning after our stay in the Tonjibe guesthouse, young guide Alfonso took us for a walk in the surrounding forest. Alfonso is only 50% Maleku, his father being from San José. At one time only 200 Maleku people remained, while in 1824 there were still 3200 living in 17 communities. As marriage between cousins is taboo, with so few people left the Maleku had to accept spouses from other indigenous tribes (e.g. Bribri), even tico's as long as these are willing to adapt to Maleku culture.

Alfonso pointed out several plants with medicinal virtue, for healing wounds, against pain and natural viagra. But his his ancestors have know many more, much knowledge has already been lost.

Alfonso also led us to an ancient burial site, hardly visible under dead leaves. Here he picked up some carved figurines to let us see them, then put them back. “You westerners store these in museums, we leave them where our ancesters wanted them to remain.”

If you happen to be in te neighbourhood on October 12, that is when the three Maleku villages - Margarita, Tonjibe, Sol - celebrate their yearly festivities!

Directions: On route #143, south of San Rafael de Guatuso.

Phone: Max Elizondo: 506.88 94 67 59

Website: http://www.naturallycostarica.co.cr/2003-2004/northern_maleku.htm

Playa Bonita at Limón

We wanted to see the Atlantic Coast, so we headed to Puerto Limón. There is really not much to do there, except for surfers. At the beach Palaya Bonito 4 km west of town we saw a couple of local youth surfing, no foreigners.
It is the best place for swimming aorund Limón, many locals were here to relax on the beach or the restaurant terraces, even though it was not sunny.

A Maleku cultural performance

After our evening meal at the Tonjibe guesthouse, we attended and took part in a cultural performance. This consisted of dance and prayer por la naturaleza (for nature). We felt the sadness of the performers for what already has been lost, but also their hope that the Creator (gran dios Tocú) will not abandon the natives.

Said elder Dagoberto Elizondo: “You westerners come as eco-tourists to admire Costa-Rica's natural riches, but we natives know how much of it has disappeared. We cannot live in our traditional houses, because few trees remain the leaves of which we were accustomed to use for the roof. So that 25 years ago we reluctantly accepted the offer of president Oscar Arias to have brick houses built for us. We have to walk for days to find a tree of the species of which the bark is suitable for making our traditional clothing. So that we now only wear it for ceremonial purposes.”

The Maleku claim 3500 ha as their ancestral lands, but now own only 800 ha. Most of their land has been converted to pasture by cattle growers. With the little money they earn they try to buy back some land and let forest regrow on it.

If you happen to be in te neighbourhood on October 12, that is when the three Maleku villages - Margarita, Tonjibe, Sol - celebrate their yearly coming together.

Directions: On route #143, south of San Rafael de Guatuso.

Phone: Max Elizondo: 506.88 94 67 59

Website: http://www.naturallycostarica.co.cr/2003-2004/northern_maleku.htm