Nganjuk Off The Beaten Path Tips by theo1006

Seek out Lor temple

Compared to candi Ngetos, Lor temple or candi Lor is not much more than a pile of bricks. But then it is twice as old, dated at 934 AD. The year is also considered as the foundation year of Nganjuk town.

Candi Lor was built on the order of king Mpu Sendok, to commemorate his victory in a war with the Malay people of Jambi. It was constructed of big red bricks, much bigger than they make them nowadays. In the grounds are the graves of two of the king's servants, Eyang Kerto and Eyang Kerti, as well as headless statues of Ganesha and Siwa Mahadewa.

Most impressive is the tree growing on the remains of the temple. The tree is said to be 500 years old.

Directions: Candi Lor is located in Loceret village, quite close to Nganjuk town. Take the main road from Nganjuk to Kediri, after 3 km turn west only 200 m. Most likely you will find the grounds locked. The caretaker (juru kunci) lives 200 m in the kampung on the other side of the road. His name is Sukohandoyo. An enterprising young boy volunteered to point out his house to us.

Seek out Ngetos temple

It is virtually impossible to visit all Java’s pre-Islamic temples. The countryside of Central and East Java is littered with them. But we make it a point to seek one out when we happen to be in the neighbourhood.
Candi Ngetos is located in Ngetos village, 17 km south of the town of Nganjuk. It is said to have been erected on the order of king Hayam Wuruk of Majapahit, in order to be his grave monument after his demise. That dates the temple in the 15th century AD. Likely Hayam Wuruk wanted to be buried facing Gunung Wilis, which mountain was seen as an abode of the gods. However, it is not certain that Hayam Wuruk’s remains actually lie here. The local people believe that once there was a twin of Ngetos temple called Tajum temple, which might equally well have been his grave.

The temple was constructed of big red bricks, and once had a face in relief on each side over the porch. Only one of these remains, and perhaps some restauration work has been done on it. Concrete lintels have been put above the porches to prevent them caving in.

Directions: Candi Ngetos is easily visited as a side-trip when going to the popular Sedudo waterfall. From Nganjuk take the road to Swahan and Sedudo waterfall. After some 14 km you reach a bridge on your left. The road to Sawahan keeps to the right bypassing the bridge. For Candi Ngetos cross the bridge and once past it turn left again to Ngetos village.