"This is what you want, this is what you get" Cabanaconde by the___gecko

Cabanaconde Travel Guide: 1 reviews and 14 photos

I headed off to the Colca Canyon which was the main reason for me being here. The surrounding area of arequipa is pretty desolate and I was thinking how could there be such a beautiful spot out here.

However driving into the valley and arriving at Chivay the first and main town of the valley set up a different scene.

I needed to set sail for a place called Cabanaconde as this was where the entry to the supposed most interesting part of the canyon was.

A 2 hour journey standing up on a constantly crowded bus. i didnt get to see much because I was buckled over like a hunch back for most the ride. Got there after dark which in Peru is about 5.30pm and went with the first local to my hostel.

Great choice as i got to sleep with that cartoon sponge thats on acid all the time. I think his name is Bob.

I then went and sat myself down at the restuarant ajoined to the hostel and it was vegetarian night.

Found myself a table, sa down and who should join me for dinner, a kitten. Just jumped up in the adjacent chair. My soup came out and before I knew it, another kitten, a grey one came and sat on my lap.

I ate my soup and then my pasta and then both kittens decided to use me as there matress.

Now call me a poof, but after my meal I just sat and strked the 2 kittens as they peacefully slept on my lap listening to old soppy love songs they were playing in the restuarant and had tears in my eyes.

There was so much lving enrgy here at this point and it occurred to me that I hadnt had a moment like this in ages because of travelling with others. This kind of nature magic just doesnt have the same energy when in others company.

I ended up drinking herbal tea and just loving the kittens for at least a hour or so. It was such a beatiful moment.

I hen went outside and there was a festival happening in the main square. Nothing special here except for he fact I got to watch the beautiful locals all holding hands doing there local dance to there local music.

I got this great sense of love and connection. the music bringing everyone together. As much as the music doesnt move me (I know youve heard it more than once before), it was just such a wonderful experience to watch and feel the love present amongst these beautiful folks. Kind of reminded me of the days that I once had.

Anyway next morning was spent trying to find a place to have breakfast. Impossible, everyone was sleeping in just about. So I ended up eating bananas and this bread with some kind of sweet icing which was prtty bloody yuck and then I was off into the canyon.

I walked off track once and the locals had no hsitation in putting me back on he right path which happened to be a stream. I got to the edge of the canyon and WOW is all I can say.

It took me about 4 hours to get down as I stopped at every view to admire its natural beauty.

At the base was a place they called the oasis as they have channelled heated water into a couple of swimming pools down there. There were all kinds of huts as well, but seeing I was stupid enough to take my tent, I pegged up.

Before I did this though I got out my trangia and put 7 pieces of San Pedro cactus in and started to cook. After this a English couple approached and totally distracted me. This was ok while we chatted but I then noticed something smelt funny.

I bolted to the trangia and the water had boiled dry and the cactus had been burnt to the *** house thus totally spoiling the pot. So I spent the next hour or so scrubbing with fallen bark and leaves the black *** left from the debacle. As I did this the couple buggered off to set up camp else where.

It was after 3 by the time I got the pot cleaned so I therefore decided there would be no shamen ritual today as it was getting to late to enjoy the canyon in daylight after the trip started.

So instead I decided to bash my way through cactus, rose bushes and all sorts of shrub that I was expecting more in the amazon than here to eventually break my way to the canyon river.

It took some doing to as the hole oasis area is a good 40 metres I would estimate above the canyon floor, but god was it beautiful when I finally made it.

A rich and thick flowing river threw large rocks, surrounded by a giant cliff wall on one side and dense bush (where came from) on the other.

I then spent the next hour or so treking my way down the river which was no easy task. I needed to a couple of times re unite with the shrubs as there was not 1 place on this hole section where the rocks linked a hoping bridge to the other side and the river engulfed the bank on the side I was on a couple of times.

But this made for a interesting Indiana Jones type adventure and the scenery was stunning the hole way around. Met the friendliest local fishing half way around and saw a natural land mark that looked like a condor doing the funky chicken dance.

Then when it was getting dark and I wanted to get back to camp to eat, the task of finding my way back up was just as if not more difficult than getting down.

At least 3 times I had to back track and move along the edge of the oasis cliff to find safe passage. The cliff surface was so brittle, I was breaking off rocks as big as my head on my attempted climb up. In the end I had to use tree roots and branches like monkey boy. This was sure alot of fun.

Eventually I got up to the second plateau and from then on it was just a matter of manuvreing around cactus and other shrubs.

As I made it back I met up with the English couple and another English dude and sat down and chatted to them for a while and ended up cooking dinner with em to. We were then joined by another couple, a Swiss guy and his kiwi girlfriend.

The next morning I was up and cooked my seafood soup for breakfast which was like eating chunky custard as this was the first soup I read afterwards, or only knew to be cause saw the word FRIO that had to be put in the ater before it was boiling.

  • Last visit to Cabanaconde: Jun 2007
  • Intro Written Jun 20, 2007
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