Cairo Local Custom Tips by MariaK

A woman in Egypt has a different status than in the western world. Wife, mother, household leader, a creature to be respected. Ok but as a woman she knows nothing and she should certainly accept the will of her husband.

So, here is the story:

When we visited Cairo Museum, there was a man selling "papyrus" outside. It was the first time being there, he said 10, I said 5. "Ok" he replied immediately.

My husband was beside me and he told me in Greek "Come on, look how happy he seems, I'm sure that these things cost very less, we'll find them cheaper elsewhere"... Well indeed he did seem happy as if he had just found a stupid tourist and made his day.

So I tell him "no" and he turns to my husband "ok my friend, no problem, give me 4". He receives another "no" while we move on but he insists, keeps following us and trying to argue: "But the lady said...".

And there he goes, my husband (who had obviously already become used to the Egyptian way, huh) replies jokingly:"The lady is just a woman, what does she know, she knows nothing". The man, immediately stopped insisting and following us, shook his head with understanding (and as if he completely agreed), and just left. Just like this. And that's a family joke ever since.

For the record, in Khan-Al-Khalili, the same "papyrus" (banana leaf) cost half the money (as first price, before bargaining). He was right. Well I should expect it, I'm a woman, what do I know :D :D

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...try to understand their gestures. Careful, the same gestures don't mean the same thing here (as in your hometown).

So, if you are talking to a local and:
1*.he starts shaking his head from side to side: he doesn’t mean “No”, as one would probably mean in your country. He means, “I don’t understand”.

2*.he raises his eyebrows and lifts his head up and back, maybe doing a “tsk” noice at the same time: he means “No”. You can find this gesture really helpful when someone will be trying to sell you anything that you don’t want. You just raise your eyebrows, incline your head backwards and do a “tsk” noise – they get it (its not certain that they’ll leave though).

3*. he keeps his fingers stretched out and turning the wrist quickly (like turning a door knob): that stands for “what”, “where”, “who” etc. This might mean also “what’s your problem”, so try to figure out what his face tells you…

4*: he puts his right hand over his heart: he means “no thanks”. This should make you wonder if you haven’t offered him anything I guess.

So, when in doubt, start shaking your head from side to side (rule no. 1*).

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At this point I would like to stress out the obvious about communicating in Egypt. When you want to ask someone for directions, you may use your phrase book, right? That’s what I thought when I asked a local woman "where is the entrance of the Citacel" in Cairo. And then she smiled politely, and started explaining in a fast manner. In EGYPTIAN of course. Which I don’t understand. So, I shook my head from side to side, said “thank you” and left. For the record, the Citadel entrance was at the complete opposite side of where we were, so we walked, and walked, and walked...

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Keep a lot of change with you when you visit Egypt. Every service that you require (or not) and is provided to you, means that you will have to give something.

A man who opened the door for you at the airport, at a hotel or at a restaurant, expects to take a baksheesh. Someone who carries your bags or suitcases. A guard of the tomb who offers to show you some "secret" spot. A local who agrees to pose for a photo (he or his camel, his horse etc). You get the point. Some are asking for a baksheesh just because they are there - this often is the case with children in touristy places... they gather around you shouting "baksheesh, baksheesh".

When we reached our hotel, the tour guide assured us that "yes, of course, the tips for the hotel stuff are included in the price of the trip, as it was mentioned in the brochure". OK. But the porter comes, he carries our bags, and at the room door he says the magic word "baksheesh". I told him that I only had Greek coins, we had just arrived from the airport. He thought for some seconds and he replied that Greek coins would do the job. Really? What would he do with a foreign coin? As we realized afterwards, he carried the luggage of another couple of the group, and he exchanged the coin (rounding it so that the new baksheesh would be there too). The couple were also wondering where he found the Greek coin, until we talked about it :D

Keep the change away from your big bills because if they see them they will certainly ask for more baksheesh (after all they saw that you probably can afford it).

Another tip on tipping in Egypt: cheap ballpoint pens will be a good baksheesh too. Everyone wants them and you get away giving less, so everybody is happy. So, it would be a good idea to buy a box of them.

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Premerital sex is a taboo in Egypt, but, the presence of foreign women is a real temptation. Men see it with their own eyes that we are easy (on satelite TV that is :)).

So, some women encounter things like someone following them for a long distance talking passionately or suggesting lewd stuff, someone pinching their bottoms and this kind of things. And these things are disturbing and sometimes frightening.

Here is some advice that I learnt by heart before going and worked well:

*They respect married women, so wear a ring anyway (even if not really married). Also if you have male company, as a friend of yours, call him "husband" anyway.

*Any behaviour that might "suggest" you are flirting might get you into trouble.

*Eye contact is a sure sign you are flirting (see the previous rule) :) Wear sunglasses.

*Expose as little flesh as possible. Cover your arms and legs.

*In case you have an "admirer" making comments that you feel are rude, play deaf and walk away. Don't answer.

*If you need information ask a woman.

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If you go by these rules you are in the safe side. You may not follow them and be ok anyway. A friend of mine who was with me during my second visit in Cairo, after the trip, told me in a dissapointed manner "You made me bring all long sleeve shirts and I saw so many girls wearing stapshirts in Khan-Al-Khalilli; nothing happened to them!".

Well, that was true but, another friend in the same trip, went to the same bazaar and a woman grabbed her shirt and started shouting at her. It's up to you.

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