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breughel    
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San Paolo fuori le Mura: A major Roman Basilica.
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  • Written by breughel on Dec 18, 2007
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  • Rome San Paolo fuori le Mura
  • San Paolo fuori le Mura - Nave
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  • On a rainy winter day I took the opportunity to visit this major basilica which I had not seen during my previous stays in Rome. I knew that the basilica of St Paul had been entirely rebuilt after the fire of 1823, and thus expected to see a somewhat banal remake, during the 19th century, of the original church. I was mistaken and much amazed when I discovered this architectural wonder.
    I entered by the large transept at the Via Ostensie and already in this part of the Basilica I got lost in admiration looking up at the coffered ceiling with his blazons of the popes.

    When I arrived in the middle of the transept I could discover in the darkness the immense nave divided into five aisles by 80 imposing monolithic columns made of granite.
    The Basilica of Saint-Paul is imposing by the force of its proportions and the relative simplicity of its decoration. It preserved the plans of a Roman Empire basilica since it was built on order of the emperor Constantine in the 4th century.

    The frontage is preceded by a large atrium surrounded by colonnades. This part dates from the 20th C. Works are going on so that the frontage is only partially visible from Viale di San Paolo.

    The cloister, on the right of the transept, is remarkable by the elegance of the small columns of various forms decorated with pieces of marble and gildings.


    Open 7 - 18 h. Free entrance.

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    Address: Via Ostiense 190
    Directions: The Basilica is at only 200 m from the metro B station "Basilica S. Paolo".
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    San Paolo fuori le Mura: The tomb of St Paul.
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  • Updated by breughel on Jun 29, 2009
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  • If the basilica is so sumptuous, and this since the 4th c., it is by no doubt because the Apostle Paul, in fact the number two of the Church, is buried here.
    It was under Nero, around 64, that the decapitated Apostle Paul - he had this privilege being a Roman citizen - was buried along the Via Ostiense leading to the port of Ostia.
    According to the uses in Rome people were buried along the roads leaving the city; the best known example to-day being the tombs along the Via Appia Antica.

    Presently the shrine of St Paul is located at the junction of the nave and transept under the "ciborium". The pilgrims go down there by a double staircase. The tomb of the Apostle Paul is hidden behind a grid under a marble flagstone from the 4th c.
    A reproduction of this marble flagstone is visible with the details in the small museum which is next to the sacristy.
    The stone on which is written “PAULO APOSTOLIMART” is about 2,10 x 1,30 m and placed 4,50 m above the actual sarcophagus of the Saint. The largest hole in the stone is used to descend a censer in the tomb. By the other two smaller holes pilgrims would introduce objects in the tomb which were then kept for worship.
    Carbon dating tests (June 2009) on bone fragments found inside the sarcophagus confirmed that they date from the first or second century.

    Interesting are also the wooden statues from the 14th c. which decorate the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament on the left of the apse.


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    Piazza Navona: Disappointment (December 2007)!
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  • Updated by breughel on Jan 27, 2009
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  • Rome Piazza Navona
  • Navona - renovation of the fountain
  • 2007-08.
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  • Piazza Navona is my preferred square in Rome but at the time of my visit in December 2007 I felt extremely disappointed by the way she looked.

    First of all the large central fountain “Fontana dei Fiumi” of Bernin was in restoration. This marvellous fountain was hidden behind panels with some glazed openings. The unhappy tourist could only see some sculptures supported by scaffolding.
    Since the summer of 2008 the marvellous central fountain is again visible, a great relief for those who love this piazza like me and were disappointed by what they saw.

    My disappointment did not stop there, in December the beautiful perspective of the Piazza Navona is destroyed by fairground stalls mixing a fun fair and a kind of Christmas market without anything of the charm of the Christmas markets of Germany or Alsace.
    Don't expect to sit at the nice terraces of the cafes or restaurants; they look at the back of the shacks.

    On a sunny Sunday in February 2008 I came back with my wife. The last time she had been on the Piazza Navona was in the early nineties. Although the December fairground was gone she also felt very disappointed. She discovered in the sixties what was once a so romantic piazza. Now all romantic has gone at Piazza Navona and has left room for a commercial market.

    Of course this is a personal totally subjective appreciation of persons who have seen this piazza before the great tourist invasion. I'm sure that most first visitors love the present lively Piazza Navona. Elder visitors have found other, still hidden, romantic places in Rome.

    ================
    Note - May 2008.
    From comments received from much younger people than myself (so not influenced by romantic souvenirs of thirty or forty years ago) my disappointment appears to be shared not only because of the works at the main fountain but also because of the somewhat "seedy" aspect of the piazza.


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    Roman Forum: FORO ROMANO - The heart of ancient Rome.
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  • Updated by breughel on May 28, 2008
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  • It seems to me that it is vain trying to describe here a place like the Forum when a well-known guide such as the “Michelin Rome” devotes ten tight pages to it!
    Best thing to do is to walk around, look in all directions, stop here and there to consult the guide book to find out to what corresponds such section of wall, such columns or ruin. I call that "humer l'air antique" sniff the air of the antic Rome.
    My favoured walk starts on the height of the Capitole, then descends the staircases towards Via Sacra and joins the Coliseum. The return is even more spectacular with its superb sights on the Capitol with the back of the Vittoriano monument.

    What strikes the visitor is the cluttering of this forum by all sorts of constructions. Already during the five centuries of the Roman Republic this place overflowed of administrative, legal, commercial and religious buildings. From this period not much remains.
    It is under the Empire that the Forum fills up with temples, basilica, and triumphal arches dedicated to the emperors of which we see now some vestiges. This glorious period stops with the barbarian invasions of the beginning of 5th c. after J-C.
    Rome becomes then the city of the Popes and the imperial buildings are transformed into churches. From the 9th century on the buildings on the forum start to collapse or are stripped off their ancient ornaments. The deserted forum becomes a sewage farm and cows feed on the meadows. During the 16th century the old forum is used as career for the construction of other buildings, of which the St-Peter Basilica!
    Finally towards 1800 start systematic excavations by Carlo Fea who are continued during two centuries. It is only in the 20th century that the topography of the heart of ancient Rome is reconstituted such as the tourist discovers it today.


    TICKETS FOR THE FORO ROMANO + COLLOSSEO + PALATINO at 9 € (full price) have now to be bought at the ticket offices (biglietterie) largo Salara Vecchia or Via di S. Gregorio 30.
    Reduced price: 4,50 € for EU citizens between 18 and 24 years.
    Free for EU citizens under 18 or more than 65 years.


    Open all days from 08.30 till 1 hour before sunset.
    From 25/03 - 31/08 that is 19.00 h; in September 19.00 h; October 18.30 h; 28/10 - 15/02 16.30 h; 16/02 - 15/03 17.00 h.

    It is certainly sad for those who used to pass here each day but it was not very logical to make people pay for the Palatine or Trajan market and not for the most important monumental area of Rome.


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    Palatine Hill: PALATINO - The Romantic Hill.
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  • Updated by breughel on May 28, 2008
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  • Rome Palatine Hill
  • Palatino - terrasse with views
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  • The best and the most romantic way of discovering the Forum is to climb on the Palatine Hill by the entry located Via di San Gregorio 30, close to Porta Capena. The visit begins thus with the vestiges of the thermal baths of Settimo Severo at the South-eastern angle of the Palatine.
    The entry of Palatine is to be paid for but it gives right to a combined entry to the Coliseum and avoids consequently the long lines at this monument which can be joined by going down towards the Arc of Titus and the Via Sacra.

    It is on the Palatine that Rome was born with Romulus in the 8th century before J-C, it is there that Cicero lived under the Republic and it is still on this hill that the emperors August, Tiber, Domitian had their residence. Excavations started in the 18th century and are still going on; they made it possible to discover the palaces Domus Augustana, Domus Flavia, Casa di Livia as well as temples of Cibele and Apollo and a stadium.
    One needs some imagination to evoke the splendour of this site of the time of the Empire but the place is quiet and shaded by beautiful trees of which the famous romantic umbrella pines.
    While moving towards North one reaches the Farnese gardens with a terrace from where one has an extraordinary view downwards on the Foro Romano. It is really a unique sight which no tourist, no photographer could ignore being in Rome.


    Note: The entrance ticket of 9 € to the Palatine includes now the access to the Foro Romano (no more free) and allows a direct entry to the Colosseo. Furthermore visitors should not forget that in most Italian national museums and historic sites the entry is free for the EU citizens of less than 18 years or more than 65. Between 18 and 24 years old there is a 50% reduction.

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    Directions: Next to the Foro Romano.
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    Vatican Museum & City: Museo Vaticano - New opening hours in 2009
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  • Updated by breughel on Sep 25, 2009
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  • Museo Vaticano - opening hours in
  • 2009
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  • The Vatican museo has finally understood that it was a non sense to close at 16.45 h or 13.45 h in winter, what resulted in horrible lines for the most visited museum of Rome.

    In 2008 the opening hours were extended from 08.30 to 18.00 h but in 2009 the opening starts only at 9.00 h.
    Last entrances at 16.00 and closure at 18.00 h.
    On Sundays with free entrance, open from 09.00 h to 14.00 h, last entrances 12.30 h.

    Closed dates:
    Sundays, except for the last Sunday of each month, unless it falls at Easter, on June 29 (St. Peter and Paul), or on December 25 and 26 (Christmas Holiday)

    Other holidays 2009:
    January 1, 6
    February 11
    March 19
    April 12, 13 (Easter - Easter Monday)
    May 1, 21 (Ascension Thursday)
    June 11 (Corpus Christi Day), 29
    August 15
    December 8 (Feast of the Immaculate Conception), 25, 26.

    Entrance tickets to the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel :
    The admission ticket to the Vatican Museums is valid for visiting the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel only on the date of purchase. It is also valid for entrance to the Vatican Historical Museum and Noble Apartment of the Lateran Apostolic Palace (near the Basilica of St. John Lateran in Rome) during regular opening hours if used within the five consecutive days from the date of purchase (included).

    Tickets are not refundable.

    Regular 14,00 €
    Reduced 8,00 €
    Special 4,00 €

    NEW: NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM. Every Friday in September and October it is possible to visit the museum in the evening from 19 h till 23 h (last entrance at 21.30 h).
    Booking online is mandatory. The price of the entrance ticket is unvaried (Full Ticket € 14,00; Reduced Ticket € 8,00; Reservation fee € 4,00). For details see the official site of the Vatican http://mv.vatican.va



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    Website: mv.vatican.va
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    Piazza Venezia - Vittoriano: Vittoriano - Renovation works.
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  • Updated by breughel on Apr 7, 2008
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  • Rome Piazza Venezia - Vittoriano
  • Vittoriano - renovation works.
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  • One of the most photographed monuments of Rome (see the number of pics here on VT) is undergoing restoration works. The central part of the frontage is covered with a sheet.

    For how long? Non lo so!

    Photographers will be disappointed but the two monumental chariots (Quadriga del Unita) in bronze with the winged Victory on the top of both corners at 81 m high and the colossal equestrian statue of King Victor Emmanuel II are not so bad for a pic.


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    Musei Capitolini Museums: CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS - I. Introduction.
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  • Written by breughel on Jan 8, 2008
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  • Rome Musei Capitolini Museums
  • Capitoline Museum - Entry.
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  • If you have only time to visit one museum in Rome I advise you this one.
    You will not be waiting in a long line as with the museum of the Vatican and you will see very famous pieces of the Antique art. Moreover the site of the museum is one of most beautiful of Rome.
    In fact there are 3 museums on Piazza Campidoglio. They are called "Musei Capitolini" and belong to the city of Rome. The sole entry is on the right by the “Palazzo dei Consevatori”. Here on two floors and about thirty rooms is the main part of the collections. The most outstanding artefacts are statues of bronze or marble of the ancient Rome. Most known are “the She-wolf”, “the Spinario” and the equestrian statue of Marc-Aurelius.
    By an underground gallery the visitors reach, after a right turn, the arcades of the antique “Tabularium”, located under the "Palazzo dei Senatorio" and present town hall, from where one has imposing sights on the Foro Romano and the Palatine hill.
    By this same underground the visitors join, on the other side of the Piazza Campidoglio the “Palazzo Nuovo” which comprises a dozen rooms with statues of which most known are the “Faun” and “the dying Gaul”.
    The exit of the Capitoline Museums is by this palace.

    The collections of statues and archaeological artefacts of the “Musei Capitolini” were made up as from 1471 by the Popes and Roman important families like the Horti and the Castellani. The Pinacotheca, art gallery of the second floor was founded by Pope Benoit XIV in the 18th century. There is also a cabinet of currencies and medals.

    Open: 9 - 20 h, closed on Monday.
    Price: 6,50 €, reduced 4,50 €, free for EU citizens less than 18 y. or more than 65 years.
    Nice cafeteria with terrace on the 2nd floor.


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    Address: Piazza del Campidoglio.
    Website: www.museicapitolini.org
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    Musei Capitolini Museums: CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS-II. Marcus Aurelius statue.
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  • Written by breughel on Jan 8, 2008
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  • Since 2005 a new large glass hall built, inside the garden of the Palazzo dei Conservatori, contains the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius (the one on the Piazza is a copy).
    It is likely that this bronze statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (161 - 180 AD) was erected a few years before is death. Where is not sure but probably in the Roman Forum although medieval sources mentioned its presence on the Lateran.
    These equestrian statues called "equi magni", larger than life-size, were much diffused in the imperial Rome but from the twenty mentioned in documents this is the only one which reached us through the centuries.

    The statue was placed on the Capitol's Hill in 1538. Corrosion and fissures in the legs made a removal of the statue in 1981 for long restoration works necessary. In 1990 Marcus Aurelius became again visible in the courtyard of the Capitoline Museum sheltered by a large window. In the present prestigious hall Marcus Aurelius has got for company some of the major Capitoline bronzes, the Hercules in gilded bronze from the Foro Boario and the remains of the bronze colossus of Constantine.


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    Address: Palazzo dei Conservatori, Room 25.
    Website: www.museicapitolini.org
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    Musei Capitolini Museums: CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS-III. Best Bronze Statues.
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  • Updated by breughel on Jan 31, 2008
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  • Capitoline Museum - Spinario.
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  • Best known, of course, is the Lupa Capitolina or She-wolf (Why is there no specific English word for a female wolf like in other languages!?). This famous Etruscan bronze statue (room VII Palazzo dei Conservatori) of the emblem of Roma goes back as far as the 6th c. BC. The twin brothers Romulus and Remus were added during the Renaissance period.

    A most beautiful statue is that of the Spinario: "Boy removing thorn from foot". Certainly one of the most gracious statues of all times, it is probably an original Greek work of the 1st c. BC. (room VI). In the same room, I very much liked the bust of consul Junius Brutus dating from the 3rd c. BC. (nothing to do with the Brutus who killed J. Caesar). Have you seen the expression of the eyes!
    I also admired a bronze statue of a horse of the 5th c. BC which is being restored. What a perfection!


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    Website: www.museicapitolini.org
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    Comments for breughel about Rome
    icunme Sat Aug 1, 2009 06:08 UTC
     Now I must look for this Monte Argentario area. Must be a lovely day trip. Ciao, Carol
    Nemorino Mon Jun 1, 2009 22:57 UTC
     Me again, just checking back to read your new tips and updates since my last visit to this page on October 9, 2008. I hope Emperor Augustus had a sense of humor & laughed when his curule chair collapsed in the Theatre of Marcellus. (But I doubt it.)
    MM212 Mon Jun 1, 2009 22:54 UTC
     Je vois que nous partageons une fascination de la Ville éternelle: i pini di roma, foro romano, les églises, et les musées. J'ai même lu les Mémoires d'Hadrien (en français)! Rome me manque déjà...
    hunterV Fri May 29, 2009 19:45 UTC
     ><><>< Great detail, thanx! ><><><><
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