Paris Things to Do Tips by breughel Top 5 Page for this destination

Fountain of St Sulpice Saint-Sulpice Review

The monumental fountain of St Sulpice is of imposing size, 12 m high.
The three lower basins have an octagonal form. The second is decorated with four lions holding between their legs the arms of Paris. From the third water flows in the two lower basins through a nice system of waterfalls.

Above the basins stands a square construction with four niches for large statues of bishops which under King Louis XIV were famous as preachers. Two of them Bossuet and Fénélon are still in the memories of those who like me had to study their works at secondary school. Yes in those times we would read Bossuet and Fénélon at school and have fun at home reading Balzac!
These nostalgic souvenirs just to say that this fountain is really beautiful, actually better than what can be seen inside the St Sulpice church.

Address: Metro Line 4 : Saint-Sulpice

Père Lachaise - Concentration camp memorials. Cimetière du Père Lachaise Review

In division 97, on the North-East corner of the cemetery, stand a number of monuments to the victims "déportés" of the concentration and extermination camps.
Various concentration camps have their specific monument like Ravensbruck, Flossenbürg, Mauthausen (a monument in the form of the terrible stairs leading to the quarry), Dachau, Buchenwald, Neuengamme, Natzweiler-Struthof, Buna, Monowitz & Auschwitz III.
On this memorial is written "N'OUBLIONS JAMAIS!" (Never forget).

Among these monuments to the victims of Nazism and heroes of the Résistance are the tombs of a number of leaders from the Parti Communiste Français. Somewhat surprising from an historical point of view as the PCF joined the Resistance only in June 1941 when Hitler invaded the Soviet Union!

Pont Alexandre III Pont Alexandre III Review

It is one of the most stunning bridges of Paris. When approaching from the Right Bank i.e. by the Grand Palais, there is a sight all in gildings: the four columns with sculptures of the bridge and in the background the gildings of the imposing dome of the Invalides ( "Invalides Exteriors" ).
When approaching by the immense esplanade of the Invalides appear on the left the glazed domes from the Grand Palais.

This steel bridge, 115 m long, 40 m wide, was offered to France by the tsar Alexander III of Russia to mark the Franco-Russian Alliance of 1892. The bridge was inaugurated for the World Fair of Paris in 1900 as well as the Petit and Grand Palais.

The steel bridge in itself is not very visible and that’s what wanted the architects. The views of the Invalides are not obstructed.
Most outstanding are the four columns at the ends. These massive 17 m high socles take part in the stabilization of the whole by preventing the spacing of the anchoring.
They are surmounted by sculptures called “fames”. On the Right Bank “Fame of Arts” and “Fame of Sciences”, on the Left Bank “Fame of Fight” and the “Fame of War”. There is also the decoration of the base of the pylons and the groups of lions led by children at the entries of the bridge.
The bridge features some Art Nouveau Nymphs, gilded Pegasus horses, lamps and cherubs.

It is for me the most spectacular bridge of Paris.

Address: Pont Alexandre III

Directions: Between the Invalides and Grand Palais

Musée d'Orsay - Monet "La pie - The magpie". Musée d'Orsay Review

Nearly 300 VT members made comments here on the magnificent collections of the museum of Orsay and the ancient railway station which shelters them.
I will just visit one painting of Claude Monet which on each of my visits made my hart bounce and my eyes shine with pleasure.
It is a rather large painting called "La pie" (the magpie) of a winter landscape painted in 1869 at the beginning of his career and which for that reason is exposed on the first floor among the pre-impressionists.
At first this painting attracts the glance of the visitor by its almost white monochromy. But quickly we realize that the snow is not white - white does not exist - she shows nuances of grey, blue, yellow with some lines and dark spots in brown or black.
There are the warm tones in the sunny part of the landscape and the cold tones in the shadow.
On the barrier, there is the magpie …
A so fascinating beauty deserves the journey to the Musée d'Orsay.

Monet was an excellent painter of snow scenes and painted some 18 in the area of Argenteuil.

Open 9.30 - 18 h (on Thursday 21.45 h). Closed on Monday.
Tickets can be bought from 9 h on.
Price (2013) 9 €. Reduced 18 - 30 yr 6,50 €. Free less than 18 yr or 18 - 25 yr from the EU .

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Près de 300 VT membres se sont exprimés ici sur les magnifiques collections du musée d'Orsay. Je me contenterai de visiter un tableau de Claude Monet qui est pour moi un "coup de cœur". Il s'agit de "La pie" un assez grand tableau d'un paysage enneigé peint en 1869 soit au début de sa carrière et qui pour cette raison est exposée au rez-de-chaussée parmi les pré-impressionistes.
Ce tableau attire le regard du visiteur par sa quasi monochromie blanche. Mais rapidement on réalise que la neige n'est pas blanche - le blanc n'existe pas - elle présente des nuances de gris, de bleu, de jaune avec quelques lignes et taches sombres en brun ou noir. Il y a les tons chauds dans la partie ensoleillée du paysage et les tons froids dans l'ombre.
Sur la barrière, il y a la pie…
Une beauté aussi captivante mérite plus que le détour, elle mérite le voyage.

Monet, qui excellait dans les scènes avec neige, en a peint 18 dans la région d'Argenteuil.

Address: Ground floor - rez-de-chaussée (section 18)

Directions: Métro: line 12, Solférino station; RER: line C, Musée d'Orsay station

Website: http://www.musee-orsay.fr/

"La Complainte de la Butte." Montmartre - Sacré Coeur Review

The stairs leading to the Place du Tertre made me remember the lovely song " La Complainte de la Butte" (the lament of the hill Butte Montmartre) written by Jean Renoir, music by Georges Van Parys, and voice of Cora Vaucaire. This song was part of the film "French Cancan" from Jean Renoir in 1955.
The fifties and sixties were great vintages for the chanson française.

Coming down of the Butte Montmartre I remembered some verses of this song:
La lune trop blême
Pose un diadème
Sur tes cheveux roux
La lune trop rousse
De gloire éclabousse
Ton jupon plein d'trous

The moon too pale
Poses a diadem
On your red hair
The moon too red
Splashes of glory
Your petticoat full of holes

Les escaliers de la butte sont durs aux miséreux
Les ailes des moulins protègent les amoureux

The stairs of the mound are hard to needy
The wings of the mills protect lovers

Best interpretation is the original by Cora Vaucaire. (on youtube: cora vaucaire "la complainte de la butte").
She also sings in a wonderful way the other so nostalgic French song "Trois petites notes de musique".

Website: http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/

Sculptures. Musée d'Orsay Review

The museum of Orsay presents 200 sculptures of the 19th century in the central aisle, the terraces Lille, Seine and Rodin as well as in room 59.
If you have no time to visit the Rodin museum you will find numerous works of him at the Musée d'Orsay as well as the sculptors Maillol, Bourdelle, Bernard and many others in all styles.
My favourite work is Albert Bartholomé's magnificent bronze statue "crying little girl" (1894).
A wide show case is completely dedicated to Edgar Degas sculptures, mainly ballerina's among which the famous "Petite danseuse de 14 ans" a bronze statue in diverse colourings, with a tutu in tulle and pink ribbon in her hair. The original wax statue was strongly criticized for her hyperrealism at an exhibition in 1881.The bronze statue was made after the death of Edgar Degas.

Open 9.30 - 18 h (on Thursday 21.45 h). Closed on Monday.
Tickets can be bought from 9 h on.
Price (2013) 9 €. Reduced 18 - 30 yr 6,50 €. Free less than 18 yr or 18 - 25 yr from the EU .

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Le musée d'Orsay présente près de 200 sculptures du 19e siècle dans l'allée centrale, les terrasses Lille, Seine et Rodin ainsi que dans la salle 59. Si vous n'avez pas le temps de visiter le musée Rodin vous trouverez de nombreuses œuvres à Orsay ainsi que les sculpteurs Maillol, Bourdelle, Bernard et bien d'autres dans tous les styles.
Mon œuvre préférée est une merveilleuse statue en bronze d'Albert Bartholomé "Petite fille pleurant" (1894).
Au niveau supérieur, salle 31, une large vitrine est entièrement consacrée à des œuvres d'Edgar Degas principalement des danseuses dont la fameuse "Petite danseuse de 14 ans" une statue en bronze avec patine aux diverses colorations, avec tutu en tulle et ruban rose dans les cheveux.
A l'époque (1881) cette statue réaliste à l'origine en cire fut fortement critiquée; on lui trouva un visage "marque d'un caractère particulièrement vicieux"!
L'édition en bronze fut faite après la mort de Degas; la statuette du musée d'Orsay est un exemplaire.

Address: Central aisle, Terraces, Rooms 59 and 31

Directions: Métro: line 12, Solférino station; RER: line C, Musée d'Orsay station

Website: http://www.musee-orsay.fr/

"Jardin à la Française" Jardin des Tuileries Review

No need to be a garden architect to find out that this is a typical garden "à la Française" designed by the famous André Le Nôtre who also designed (or redesigned) the gardens of Vaux-le-Vicomte, Versailles, Chantilly, Fontainebleau and many more.

When entering a French formal style garden I have each time the feeling that vegetation is less present than stones. That's certainly the case at the Tuileries where the gravel lanes and terraces occupy a large part of the 25 hectares; add the two basins, the many, many statues and the buildings of the Orangerie and the Jeu de Paume so that not much is left for grass.

This said, I like this geometrical style which I find restful and calm especially when coming out from a crowded metro (closest station is Tuileries on line 1).

The Jardin des Tuileries is a park where you can grab a chair for free and sit where you like. That was not the case in 1960 - 1970. One had to pay for a chair. For young people it was not uncommon to dodge paying the fee and run away when the supervisor was approaching to make people pay.

By dry weather I would like a bit more green and less of that quite dusty white gravel (same dusty gravel as in Versailles). A shoe-shine boy could make money at the Jardin des Tuileries!

Address: Place du Louvre

Directions: Metro: Tuileries,Concorde

Website: http://www.louvre.fr

Caillebotte, patron of arts and painter. Musée d'Orsay Review

Before my first visit to the Musée d'Orsay I ignored who was Gustave Caillebotte.
Today I am grateful to this generous sponsor of impressionistic painters such as Degas, Monet and Renoir and collector of impressionist art who bequeathed to the French State 67 paintings of which 27 were refused by the National Museums who considered these paintings as "drift of an unhealthy art"!
In those times (1896) the public and administrations were less fond of impressionism than a century later.

But Caillebotte was also a talented painter who painted about 500 works in a style often more realistic than that of his impressionistic friends.
The painter Caillebotte became famous for his sights of the streets of Paris made since balconies, for scenes of the labour life such as the "Raboteurs de parquet - parquet planers" , for landscapes of gardens and parks.
He was a rich man, a naval architect what explains that he often painted nautical scenes as he participated to regattas.

Open 9.30 - 18 h (on Thursday 21.45 h). Closed on Monday.
Tickets can be bought from 9 h on.
Price (2013) 9 €. Reduced 18 - 30 yr 6,50 €. Free less than 18 yr or 18 - 25 yr from the EU .



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Mécène et peintre.
J'ignorais qui était Gustave Caillebotte avant ma première visite au Musée d'Orsay. Aujourd'hui j'ai de la reconnaissance pour ce mécène généreux envers les peintres impressionnistes et collectionneur qui légua à l'Etat Français 67 tableaux mais dont les Musées Nationaux refusèrent 27 tableaux considérés comme "dérives d'un art malsain". A l'époque (1896) on était moins friand d'impressionnisme qu'un siècle plus tard.
Mais Caillebotte était aussi un peintre talentueux qui peignit quelque 500 oeuvres dans un style souvent plus réaliste que celui de ses amis impressionnistes.
L'œuvre la plus célèbre est bien sur "les Raboteurs de parquet" .
Cette salle comporte d'autres belles œuvres de Caillebotte.

Address: Upper floor - Niveau 5

Directions: Métro: line 12, Solférino station; RER: line C, Musée d'Orsay station

Website: http://www.musee-orsay.fr/

Place du Tertre. Montmartre - Sacré Coeur Review

I visited this place in the early 1960s. This new visit will probably be my second and last visit to what became the most touristy place of Paris.
The terraces of the restaurants have invaded in a few decennia the place du Tertre what was not the case on my first visit. The price of 6€ for a cappuccino is probably not far from the price at Palaces Georges V or Crillon in the centre.

I think that what tourists like here is the striking contrast between the village look of the Butte Montmartre and the very architecturally (Haussmann) organized spaces of the centre.
Presently this "aspect villageois" is amplified by the sightseeing and commercial function of the Place du Tertre. A positive point is the fact that the houses are maintained in a good state what is not the case in ordinary French villages.

Website: http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/

Polemics about an exhibition. Louvre Review

Recently started a temporary exhibition from March 28 to June 24, 2013 in the Hall Napoléon, under the Pyramid:
"De l’Allemagne, 1800-1939 - German Thought and Painting, from Friedrich to Beckmann."

According to Le Louvre:
"This exhibition, comprising over two hundred works, offers a reflection on the main themes that structured German thinking from 1800 to 1939. It places artworks and their artists—including Caspar David Friedrich, Paul Klee, Philipp Otto Runge and Otto Dix—in the intellectual context of their time, and confronts them with the writings of great thinkers, chief among whom is Goethe."

This exhibition created a lot of polemics between German media and Le Louvre.
There were strong critics in Die Zeit of 4/04 accusing Le Louvre to accredit "the thesis of an isolated path of German art which would have led directly to National Socialism."
Die Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung followed with two publications on 7/04 and 9/04/2013.
If you read French or German you can follow this polemic in the major newspapers.

If you came only for Mona Lisa, don't mind, La Joconde is not involved in that Franco-German fight.

P.S. About German painters I would like to make my own advertising about my recent comment "Alte Nationalgalerie-To discover"in Berlin.

Directions: Métro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre