flyingscot4's VirtualTourist Home Page

Personal

The musings on these pages are not my attempt at being different, as much as my attempt to not be boring. Information and descriptions that I could write have been done better many times by others. I want the reader to visualize what I have witnessed and I won't recommend something that I have not personally done or seen (unless I so state). I took every picture shown unless stated otherwise. Obviously, the opinions are those of an unintentionally verbose lunatic.

I was fortunate to be stationed in Germany from 1962 to 1965 and lucky enough to have traveled throughout Europe with a very inquisitive group of German university students. I provided the Volkswagen and 11 cent per gallon gas. We went everywhere. Weekends were for travel, and travel we did, to the tune of 90,000 miles. I fell in love with Europe.

I love Europe!!! Besides the friendliness I have experienced in all of the countries, European travel is made special because of the superb public transportation systems. One does not see much when driving a rented car because of the narrow roads, cars, trucks, buses, pedestrians, bicycles, scooters, and maniacs. I usually travel alone, and use public transportation exclusively. I may try renting a car in the future, but that will be just to get to places that are difficult to reach any other way.

The European transportation system embraces it's senior citizens and entices them to be out and about. Almost everyone is close to a bus stop, which leads to a train station, which leads to other towns and cities. All of these require walking. The seniors of Europe do not need to belong to a gym for exercise, they just need to go to the bakery, market, or butcher.

I am not a really adventurous person when it comes to food, high places, or roller coasters. I have never been to South or Central America, the Middle East, or to Asia or Australia. I do hope to get to the latter before my back, legs, feet, and heart give out. I still carry a backpack and usually stay in hostel dorms. The backpack is getting heavier, but I can still lighten the load a little. I generally travel during the "low" season to avoid the tourist throngs. I carry two cameras: a Sony A700 with four lenses, and a Canon SD800IS. I am 68 years old and proud of it.

Because of my age, I may look at things a little (or a lot) differently than folks who are considerably younger. While my opinions will be those of a person my age, I will try to not be critical of younger generations because of their attitudes, habits, values, and beliefs. Mine have changed much over the years and theirs will too. It’s not growing old as much as it is growing up.

And that's enough about me...

My pages are an attempt to highlight the places I have found truly meaningful and uplifting. I seek out both the personalities and emotions of the locations I visit, not just recommendations in a guide book. I need to be able to wander, wherever I go, and it is the results of those wanderings that will make up my pages. I will share what I know or remember about a particular place, but further research is up to the reader. Pictures are my stimulation to research a particular place and I hope that my photographs will speak to, and encourage others to try the adventure of solo European travel.

I am going to start with Germany (especially Bavaria) and Austria. I have more recent familiarity with these places (and more digital photographs). I'll add pages from Ireland, Scotland, Belgium, France, Italy, the Netherlands, and other countries at a later time.

In the Tips and Travelogues I will try to show others what I have seen and enjoyed; visual tours photographic in nature. Beauty is everywhere and finding it is the adventure. All one has to do is to wander. The German language has a word for it: “Spaziergang.” It means to take a walk or stroll without haste or purpose other than to do it. Perhaps the best English translation is to "ramble." I hope that you will join me on my “Spaziergangen” and experience some of the same beauty and adventure.

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Mariensäule and the Glockenspiel - Munich, Germany

Why I Am Doing This

My metamorphosis as a traveler is the result of experience and age. Some of my mistakes were made more than once because I am a slow learner. Some were expensive lessons. During the past 20 years the mistakes have been fewer for two reasons: first, I learned that the most expensive and important travel commodity is TIME, not money. Second, I'm going to run out of both. Therefore, the goal of all of this is help others learn from my mistakes.

Frequently, having a "theme" helps to formulate a travel plan. The "theme" (romance, castles, etc.) helps keep me focused on what I want to see, based on the theme. Then, when I reach a destination, I can go immediately to the Tourist Information centers (TI) with my specific questions ready. There I can get a simple, over-all, self-guided tour of the important sights of the locality which I should be able to complete in fewer than three hours. That leaves plenty of time to revisit the more theme-oriented attractions. Also at the TI, I seek out information about public transportation and restaurants that locals frequent, as well as local "deals." I use the TI as my first guide for all the important things.

Parenthetically, some cities and places can only be experienced by personal visits. Jerusalem and Rome will take one's breath away. The Anne Frank House, Auschwitz, and Dachau cause visitors to stop taking pictures and experience the emotions of standing on grounds that have a huge emotional effect. The unspoken impressions formed will stay forever, with or without photographs.

Trip Planning

Through years of some successes and many mistakes, I have devised a simple plan on which to base the amount of time necessary for me to "experience" a location. It is based on many years of trial and error on my part, but it is now close to perfect for me and it may help others. Please bear in mind that I do not have the luxury of return weekend trips as those who live in Europe do have. I admit to being envious.

Basically, small, picturesque towns require two days. That is enough time to see all the sights, visit a nearby castle, monastery, etc., and thoroughly enjoy simple pleasures like coffee and pastries in the afternoons. Also included is enough time to enjoy evening strolls through the old city with stops at inns for slow dinners as well as beer and wine pubs. Larger towns and small cities require three days to accomplish the same. Medium cities need four days and large cities (over 1 million in population) need five to eight days depending on the number of day trips from the city. While these numbers may seem high, please remember that the true goal of any vacation is rejuvenation and not physical collapse.

The success of any trip depends on planning and luck. Luck has to do with weather. If the weather is good, one can do anything. If the weather is bad, good planning will have accounted for the possibility. The above guide allows for poor weather and allows for indoor activities for half of the stay. The traveler may not go to as many places, but he/she will "experience" the places they do visit. "Planning" is being prepared for things to go wrong. Wherever one travels, rain, snow, windstorms, blizzards, lost luggage, rail strikes, illness, etc., can be encountered. Lost luggage can be countered by "packing light" and "carrying on" luggage. Rail strikes (especially in Italy) can slow one down, but they too are manageable. Insurance and knowing the health risks of a location allows for some illness control. Only weather is completely out of the traveler's control. Raincoats, umbrellas, and willingness to get a little wet will help. Planning indoor activities prepare one for weather (rain and snow) issues.

Finally, while there are advantages and disadvantages, solo travel is always an adventure and usually a great experience. It is more strenuous and challenging, but, for me, the rewards far outweigh any negatives.

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Rothenburg ob der Tauber from near the Burgtor

The Value of Time and Solo Travel

Regarding cost. It is somewhat more expensive to travel in Europe than in the US. Staying in hostels can actually be less expensive for a single traveler. In 2007 I stayed in Munich, Germany for a week on about $60.00 per day including food, lodging, entrance fees, and transportation. Cities are more expensive than towns and some countries are more expensive than others. The old "East" zone is still a bargain, but that too is changing.

Solo travel does not necessarily mean individual travel. It means travel utilizing public transportation (whether alone or in a small group), and the ability to change plans on a whim. The solo traveler is limited only by money and time.

Time is the single most precious commodity of the traveler. Time, not money, is usually the biggest deterrent to travel, so using time wisely becomes the hallmark of the experienced traveler. "Budget time wisely" is the first of my two mandatory travel commandments and "pack light" is the second. Solo travelers may not see as many places on a single trip, but they will know, understand, and be comfortable in the places they see. Most importantly, they will look forward to the next trip.

Short distances in Europe mean that one seldom loses a day for travel (except when moving long distances). Germany, for example, has one third the population of the US in an area about the size of the state of Montana. Much less time needs to be devoted to traveling between locations and more time can be spent relaxing or seeing new places.

Since the places of interest in Europe are so convenient to each other, it is easy for the solo traveler attempt to squeeze extra stops into a day's schedule. Attempting to visit two cities or towns in one day is almost always a mistake (including towns on major rivers like the Rhine and Danube). I visited to Augsburg and Ulm on the same day. I had to run (I use the term loosely) to catch a train, and while I did catch it, I became an immediate concern for other passengers as to whether I was going to survive my two hundred yard sprint (I use that term loosely as well). When I finally dragged my body back to the hostel, I realized two things: I attempted to accomplish too much, and that I remembered little about either city. I did remember catching the train very well.

To see a place and it's culture, rather than just the sights in a city, allocating enough time in each place becomes essential. Tour operators take tourists on a bus or walking tour of the city, pointing out the different places of interest, then, depending on the tour, tourists are taken to different sights around the city. Then it's on to the next stop with some short visits along the way. The two advantages of organized tours are luggage transfer and organization. Most of the tourist's time is planned for them.

Solo travelers don't have the advantage of large organization pricing, planning, or baggage transfers. However, solo travelers have the opportunity to do more with the time they have. Most European cities have both bus and walking tours of the city in which they point out the highlights. Many cities have hop off-hop on tour buses which can be a very good value. Solo travelers do not have deadlines by which time they must return to the tour bus or hotel. Solo travelers learn about public transportation and how to be independent. They have the opportunity to shop in local markets, grocery stores, department stores, etc.. They can sit at a cafe on a square with a glass of wine or beer and watch tour groups as they scurry around. More importantly, a traveler "experiences" a city or a country by taking the time to "digest" what they have seen. Leisurely lunches at outdoor gasthauses or bistros, beer gardens and beer halls, coffee and pastries, are not only wonderfully relaxing, but part of the lifestyle. It is so easy to be part of and proves the value of budgeting time. In short, I can not teach wandering. Just do it.

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The German ICE (300+ kph) in Munich Hauptbahnhof

Public Transportation

Subways, trams, and local bus transportation. Local public transportation is critical to solo travel. Travelers MUST learn to utilize the transport systems available, and they are not difficult. Usually, cities are classified in "zones" which are concentric circles on a map of the city. The Zone number increases the farther it is from the city center. Travel in, say, Zone 1 is one price which goes up with each succeeding zone. Single use tickets can frequently be purchased from the driver on trams and buses. Otherwise they can be purchased from machines at the bus station/stop. Subway tickets are purchased in machines at the different stations. There are usually a number of options. One can purchase a ticket for 1 destination, a "day ticket" which is good for 24 hours, or a trip strip that has 5 or 10 or 15 "strips" on it. It is usually 2 strips for a Zone 1 trip, and more for the outer zones. The strips are good on all transportation (sometimes including local trains). (More information coming in "Tips" at a later date)

Rail and long distance bus transportation. Rail and bus travel in Europe can be very cost effective. Most countries and regions have special prices for families and individuals. The "Regional Tickets" on German trains allow up to five adults (or two adults and three children, or any other combination of 5) to travel anywhere within the region from 0900 to 0300 the following morning for only €29. There are "night train" specials as well as weekend specials. There are also deals for seniors in every country. While rail travel is expensive on a per mile basis, the traveler doesn’t have to go as far. Public transportation in Europe is marvelous, and there are few places that one can’t get to. Small hotels, pensions, and B&B’s are no more expensive (and in many cases, less) than in the US, and not difficult to get to if one has good directions and the knowledge necessary to use public transportation.

The German, Swiss, Belgian, Austrian, Netherlands, and Scandinavian systems are top shelf. Italy and France are good, but can be problematic at times. In the former East zone, the systems are improving but still far behind the West zone. Bus transportation is also available to virtually every city and town in Europe.

Obtaining the knowledge to use public transport is easy. Most train tickets are available from ticket machines located in the train stations. Once you are used to them, they are quite simple to use. Most operate in the same fashion throughout Europe and many have multi-lingual instructions. Also remember that there are many Europeans who do not speak the language of the country in which they are traveling. If they can figure out the machines, so can I, and so can you. If you still have trouble, stand aside and watch others use the machine. Then when a young person comes to the machine, ask them in English, "Excuse me please, can you help me to get a ticket?" Most young people speak some English because they have had eight to twelve years of English in school. If that doesn't work (it will), look for a sign with the small letter "i" above a door or with an arrow to follow. The "i" is for "Information" and it will be either Tourist Information (where they will speak English), or rail information where they will speak English and also sell you a ticket and print out a schedule for you. (The reason for learning the machines is that the small stations and train stops have only machines and many are not multi-lingual.) Also, Many trains allow ticket purchase on-board.

Another advantage to public transportation is being able to travel and see the cities or towns from the standpoint of a local. This is especially true of bus transportation. While slow, buses go through the central parts of the cities and towns allowing visitors to choose places to they wish to visit at a later time.

Whether by train, bus, or ferry, learning how to use the public systems and going off on one's own will add to the visitor's personal enjoyment as well as to the overall personal adventure.

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Spring in Dinkelsbühl, Germany

Destinations

In most of Europe, the main hub of transportation is at the main train station. The major mode of transportation is by rail and most transportation systems (bus, tram, subway) emanate from this station. As a solo public transit traveler, it is also the first stop to:
1. Recheck your departure times. (Critical.)
2. Purchase your return ticket (if necessary).
3. Get directions to the local TI (Tourist Information). They all speak some English.
4. Get walking, bus, or tram directions to the city center or other destination.

The second stop should be at the local TI, usually near either the train station or the city center. There you can:
1. Get information about the city, walking and bus tours, etc.
2. Book hotel/hostel accommodations.
3. Get information about the major places of interest. While some places will take two or more hours to visit, in many cases, the attraction is just a building or a central square. Many are statues that are worth seeing and photographing, but don't warrant more than a few minutes.
4. Get restaurant recommendations (for local places with English menus).
5. Get a city map with a sample walking tour.
6. Research the various styles of architecture in the "old city."
7. Research side trips in the surrounding area.
8. Ask the "dumb" questions. They don't expect you to know much.

Before going on, a reminder that good manners are very important. A pleasant "good morning" or "good day" with a smile is worth miles of good will. While it sometimes doesn't seem like it, most Europeans are very polite in their own countries. If you know a few phrases or words in a language, the locals will appreciate the fact that you are trying. Don't forget the smile.

Many small cities and villages do not require a full day to visit. Rather than add a second main place to visit, spend a couple of hours rambling through the town or sitting in an outdoor cafe or having coffee and pastry at one of the multitude of shops. Slow down and emulate the speed of the locals. They are seldom in a hurry (unless driving). Relax and enjoy the day!

Places of Interest

In much of Europe, many of the major churches and cathedrals are not in big cities. Frequently, the towns or small cities have very famous churches or cathedrals. Some small cities were once major commerce centers of the country. Fortunes changed with trade routes and the industrial revolution, etc., and while the city lost its' importance, the churches remained. These are frequently some of the first places to visit. Many of the churches have towers that can be climbed for marvelous views. Consider making the climb. Without the tower trip, most churches and cathedrals will take 30 minutes to one hour for viewing and information gathering. Don't overlook smaller churches. They often have remarkable interiors. The TI's will tell you what makes their city unique.

Local folk museums take about the same amount of time as the cathedrals unless the visitor has a very special interest in the subject(s) covered by the museum. The "old" city halls are often ornate and worth seeing. Many of them have very enjoyable histories and legends and some have towers to climb.

Palaces and castles make up the next category. Palaces are edifices of great beauty and were built for the royalty of the area as residences for living during times of peace. Palaces frequently have large and lovely gardens as well as elaborate business and entertaining rooms and halls. The living quarters are also frequently more than sumptuous.

Castles, on the other hand, protected the people in times of conflict between various countries, provinces or just landowners. Most were purposely built on high ground to make them difficult for the enemy to attack. They were defensive and not necessarily comfortable. From their lofty perches they protected the land-owner and his serfs. Castles were most often defeated by siege, not combat, as long as there was a supply of water. It can take over two hours or more to tour a palace or a castle and castles can also involve a stiff climb to reach.

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The Zwinger - Dresden, Germany

Rating system and Major or Larger Cities

Rating system

I have a rating scale that I follow which is very simple and goes from 1 to 5. A five is a place that I enjoyed so much that I want to revisit on my next trip. A four indicates a place that I would like to return to some day. A three means that one visit was enjoyable, but enough. A two means that I would tell others to skip the place unless they have nothing better to do. A rating of one should need no explanation and a zero rating means that I was mugged or something. For the purposes of these tips and travelogues, I will not write about zero's, one’s and two’s.

Major or Larger Cities

The differences between large cities and smaller cities and towns are largely just numbers. There's more of everything and in greater sizes and quantities. Obviously, they require more time to experience. Transportation systems are larger and more frequent, as well as more crowded. Some small cities may have almost as much to see as much larger cities. Bamberg, Germany comes to mind as an example.

In large cities people are in a hurry during the work day. In the evenings and weekends, most European cities seem to slow down to a more leisurely pace (except for young people who still have limitless stamina or are willing to accept the consequences of hangovers and lost sleep). Nightlife becomes more important in the larger cities as there is much to choose from. Most cities have major opera houses as well as theaters. There are smaller venues for every kind of music from rock, to jazz, to folk, and traditional music of the area. Of course, there are also the pubs of every culture and nationality. One can never say, "There was nothing to do." One needs to know how to find it, that's all.

Food becomes more than just sustenance in major cities. Major European cities feature world cuisine. If it is considered a cuisine, European cities will have it. There are many types of regional cuisine available as well. In many parts of Europe, lunch is the main meal (at noon or 1:00 PM) which may or not be followed by a nap. Spain and Italy are famous for the afternoon naps when stores are closed and the main meal is not till 9:00 or 10:00 PM at night.

Large cities are also the places to find the large, world renown palaces, residences, museums, art museums, theaters, and opera houses. The museums can be on a variety of subjects, and can take a long time to tour, two hours at a minimum. The ornate theaters and opera houses also should not be toured in a rush. This is true as well for the major art museums and science and technology museums. They have much that is worth seeing and understanding.

In other characteristics, the large cities and metropolitan areas are the same as their smaller counterparts. The train stations are bigger with more conveniences. Shopping in the finest of stores is available. The first place to stop is still the main train station, for the same reasons, followed by the TI, also for the same reasons. The information to gather is the same. The biggest difference is the number of sights and the time necessary to see them.

Larger cities will have more tours in different languages and more people are likely to speak other languages, predominantly English.

Regarding the Internet

Internet Cafes are more available in European cities than in the US. Most hotels have WiFi and many inns have at least some connectability. The point that I want to make is that internet research should be done on rainy days, before or after your journey, or at night if you have nothing better to do. Quick emails are one thing, but to spend valuable vacation time sitting at a computer is a definite waste. I saw an American woman at an Internet Cafe in Amsterdam talking to herself and the monitor while going through a huge list of things that she was watching on Ebay! The Dutch just shook their heads.

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Maria and Siegfried - my special people

Dedication, Base Cities, and Side Trips

DEDICATION: I am unbelievably fortunate to have a very special base city in Nürnberg, Germany. My cousin, Siegfried (by a dissolved marriage) and his lovely wife, Maria, live just outside the city, and graciously allow me to stay with them when I am in the area. I dedicate this page to them, (as well as to their children, significant others, and grandchildren, plus my nephews), my very wonderful family/friends. It is because of them that I am so very comfortable in Germany, and I take this opportunity to acknowledge and thank Siegfried and Maria publicly.

Side and day trips

Side or day trips away from a base location make more sense when traveling solo. The fewer times one changes lodgings, the better the trip will be. Every change of hotels or hostels, means time is lost doing nothing but packing and unpacking. There is also the matter of luggage transfer. Personally, I feel that the only reason to change lodgings is if the lodging is terrible, or if one is moving to a new base. Changing lodgings takes at least half a day, if not more, and the inconvenience of moving will create a strain on the rest of the day. Hopefully, this warning will caution people to be careful in their lodging choices, not only in quality, but in locations convenient to their expected itinerary.

Examples of Base Cities

If one has a base in Munich, for example, all of Southern Bavaria as well as the Tirol and many places in Northern Austria are within day trip distances. There are many guided tours that leave from Munich each day. The Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is easily accessible from anywhere in Munich. Salzburg is even included in the Bavarian Länder ticket (25 Euros for up to 5 people traveling together, and a single ticket for one person is only 19 Euros). This ticket is good from 9:00 AM until 3:00 AM the following morning. ICE, IC, and EC trains are not included in this offer. For groups, this is a great bargain, and for individuals, it does save money over the cost of a single return ticket.

Other good bases include Nürnberg for cities like Bamberg, Bayreuth, and many other Franconian towns. Würzburg is in the heart of the Franconian wine district, and Mainz is an ideal city to tour the Rhine River going South to North. Koblenz is a perfect base for trips from North to South on the Rhine and Mosel Rivers (some of the world's most famous wine country). I have also found that one can use Ghent, Belgium as a base for visiting, Brussels, Brugge, Ostend, and Antwerp. The Waloonia (South) part of Belgium also has good cities to serve as bases.

Once a base city had been reached, the only thing left to do is to grab a day pack, go to the grocery store (many are located in the train stations themselves) and purchase a picnic lunch or a snack for the train trip, and take off. That is just as easy as getting on the tour bus.

Caution!!! Rail travel can be problematic if a trip involves multiple train changes. For the most part, trains leave and arrive on schedule. If the arrival platform of the train on which you are traveling is #21, and you are transferring to a train leaving on Platform #3, be sure to allow enough time to walk to the platform. It is not uncommon to encounter train conductors who do not speak your language. Until you become familiar with reading the rail schedules in each country, go the the Rail Information counters at large stations. Generally, the counter personnel will be able to advise you in your language or in English.

Also, on "Express" trains, individual railroad cars usually have a destination city listed somewhere on both ends of each passenger car. Be sure to get on a car with your destination city listed. It is common for trains to add and lose cars at different stops, so if you are traveling to Berlin from Paris and your car says Frankfurt Hbf (hauptbahnhof), you'll be delayed getting to Berlin, and you will not enjoy your stay, however brief, in Frankfurt.

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Duke - my new "best friend"

Guidebooks, "New Pal," and Last Bits

A word about guide books. These books are written for two reasons: profit and to aid the tourist/traveler. I have heard, but cannot prove, that some of the guide book authors receive gratuities for their recommendations. I can not confirm that, but it should not make any difference. Most of the recommended places, I have found, are all above average. At any rate, Rick Steves does a good job discussing guide books in his publications and his opinion is far more knowledgeable than mine.

One of the things that many travel people recommend is to take only the pages of the guide books that pertain to your trip. Just tear the pages out of the book and staple them together. It is a good idea, but then you are left with a folder full of disorganized pages, and that is a waste. I take the book to a print shop (Kinko's) and have them cut the spine off the book (the process is called "unzipping"). Then is ask them to either drill holes that will accommodate a small two or three ring binder or "spiral bind" the pages. That way I can take only the pages I need and still maintain the book when I return. The books don't change that much in any two or three years, regardless what the authors say, and the histories never change.

Personally, I like the Michelin Green Guides for basic guides, The Blue Guides for histories and background, Rick Steve's publications for good basic places, and Rough Guides for budget travel.

One of the things that many guidebooks neglect to research is homes that rent out single rooms. They don't research these places because there are so many of them. This is a resource for lodging that should not be overlooked. The rooms are clean (you'll probably have to share a bathroom), the breakfasts are usually better than hotels and hostels, and the proprietors are very friendly and knowledgeable. This is one of the best ways to see a country as a local. For example, ask to accompany the proprietor/ess to the store in the morning when he/she gets the fresh rolls, milk, and pastry for breakfast, as many do. You will learn a lot and gain the friendship of the locals.

New Pal

I have a new "best friend." He is a six year old German Shepherd that I rescued from a shelter where he had been for five months. He had been considered too old to others who looked at him. Well, that was right up my alley. I had been told the day before that I was too old to backpack and stay in hostels.

His name was Deuce, which I didn't like, so I changed it to Zeus, because it sounded similar. I didn't like Zeus that much either (I couldn't let him be top dog), and finally hit on Duke. He does have an attitude and talks back continuously. Our disagreements are quite loud, and I usually seem to be on the losing side. He has no knowledge of the meaning of the words "no bark," "quiet," or "shut UP." Our shouting matches are becoming legendary in the neighborhood, and I think that I might change his name to "Dammit." It will be easier to just say "Shut up, Dammit." He is also very protective, and somewhat aggressive, but he mostly lets me be king, and I will therefore admit him to the royal circle, and Duke it is. It will be a realm of the two of us.

Last Bits

Now that I have been at this for awhile, I hope that what I have written will be of some value to readers. I did not intend it to be this long, and I promise that most of the tips and travelogues will be much shorter. Travel is the "chicken soup for my soul; I can only hope that my words and pictures will make it yours too.

Update: 02/09

I have just added a Travelogue, two videos, as well as a new Bavaria page and Tips that detail some of the Bavarian Christmas Markets. As an American I envy the German folk at Christmas time. If you will go to these pages, I have every confidence that you will agree. I hope that my images will bring joy to all my old friends and to those friends I have yet to meet.