"Istanbul: From Constantine to Ataturk " a Istanbul Travel Page by midnight_mike

Istanbul is the gateway between the east and the west. Spread across two continents, Istanbul is the ultimate blend of European and Asian cultures. The most enduring image of the city is the skyline, with its many mosques. But, when it comes to the lifestyle of its people, Istanbul leans more toward Europe. In fact, most people who live in Istanbul consider themselves Europeans.

Once known as Constantinople, the city was named after Roman emperor Constantine, who made it his capital in 330 A.D. Prior to that, the city was a trading port known as Byzantium. Constantine himself called it Nova Roma.

Modern Istanbul is a sprawling metropolis, divided between Europe and Asia, with a population of 10 million. Constantine’s city was limited to a narrow strip of land on the European side of the Bosphorus, now known as Old Istanbul, between the Sea of Marmara and the Golden Horn. At its peak, a million people lived there.

The creation of massive walls surrounding Constantinople allowed the city to prosper under Byzantine rule for more than a thousands years. Most impressive are the Theodosian Walls, erected in 412 A.D., which secured the four miles of the city vulnerable to a land invasion. To assure its impregnability, two sets of walls were built. The outer wall is six-and-a-half feet thick and 28 feet in height. The inner wall, built 65 feet from the outer wall, is 16 feet thick and about 40 feet in height. The walls included 96 towers, some as high as 65 feet, and 12 gates. The most impressive section is Porta Aurea (“The Golden Gate”), known in Turkish as Yedikule, at the southwestern edge of the city. Foreign dignitaries were welcomed at this gate, which used to be lavishly decorated with sculpted elephants.

After the Ottoman takeover in 1453, Porta Aurea was expanded into a fortress. Walking the dimly lit stairways of its seven towers, it is easy imagining yourself back in time. Once at the top, visitors are treated to a panoramic view of the city and the Sea of Marmara.

For the medieval connoisseur, several days could be spent exploring the land walls. But for the average visitor, a half-day is sufficient. First, spend two hours at Porta Aurea. From there, take a taxi north along the inner wall, stopping at interesting points along the way. One of those stops will surely be the ruins of the Blachernae Imperial Palace, built in the 11th century by emperor Alexius I. Major restoration work is underway, closing off the palace’s interior to visitors. From Blachernae, walk five minutes east to St. Chora Church, a lavish example of 11th century Byzantine architecture and craftsmanship.

The second day of a Byzantine architectural tour should start with Hagia Sophia, the Church of Holy Wisdom. Construction, started in 532, amazingly took only five years to complete. It replaced two previous versions of the church that had been destroyed. For more than a thousand years, Hagia Sophia was the largest and grandest church in the world. When Sultan Mehmet II converted it into a mosque, the loss devastated Orthodox Christians. Ironically, Hagia Sophia’s design impressed the Ottomans so much that it was copied in other mosques throughout the empire. In 1935, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey, declared Hagia Sophia a museum and work started to restore its mosaics. Today, it is mix of both faiths.

Just outside Hagia Sophia lies the remnants of an arch known as Million, marking the center of the Byzantine Empire. All distances were measured according to this point. Facing south, to the right of the Blue Mosque, is an oval-shaped road. This was the site of the Hippodrome, where 100,000 spectators watched chariot races. At its center, three monuments offer clues as to the prominence of this stadium.

The Constantine Column, 105 feet in height, was erected by Constantine. It had been covered with bronze plates, but those were removed in 1204 by Venetians who sacked the city. Standing 55 feet high, the 3,500-year-old Obelisk of Theodosius was brought to Constantinople in 390 A.D. from the Temple of Karnak in Egypt. In addition to these two monuments, there is the Serpentine Column, commemorating the Greek victory over the Persians in 479 B.C. It was removed from Delphi during Constantine’s reign. Unfortunately, the snake heads have been detached, one of which can be found in the Istanbul Archeological Museum.

The southern edge of the stadium, which the locals call the Sfendon wall, is the only remaining part of the Hippodrome. To find it, head along the first road southeast of the Constantine Column and look for an ancient wall to your right.

The royal residence, known as the Great Palace, was located between Hagia Sophia and the Hippodrome. It had been abandoned by the time the Ottomans took over and what remained was demolished.

While the Hippodrome and Hagia Sophia were testaments to the wealth of the Byzantine Empire, practical things such as a sewer system and a fresh water supply were necessary in maintaining what had been the largest city in the world. The demand for hot water was accommodated by hundreds of underground cisterns. Two of these are open to visitors. The more impressive is the Basilica Cistern, a minute walk west of Hagia Sophia. The cavernous “hot water tank” was built by Constantine and supported by massive columns. Visitors will notice the strange placement of Medusa heads at the base of two of the cistern’s marble columns. It is not uncommon for visitors to test their singing voices here, as the natural acoustics of the room make it ideal for concerts and performances. The other cistern open to the public is in the basement of Nakkas, a carpet and souvenir store one block southeast of the Hippodrome.

In addition to everything mentioned, the Valens Aqueduct, Divan Yolu (Constantinople's main road) and the pillars from the Forum of Theodosius should not be missed.