Beirut Local Custom Tips by MM212 Top 5 Page for this destination

Destroying Heritage

Known for its beautiful mansions with red tiled roofs and Gothic windows, Beirut has seen many of them disappear over the years to make way for new developments. Such is the story all over the world, but Beirut's case is more pronounced because it had a civil war. Though many of the remaining Beiruti mansions have since been restored, a greater number is now once again being destroyed. This is in large part because of the hot property boom in recent years in the city, where wealthy Gulf citizens and Lebanese expatriates are willing to spend millions for large apartments with views. The result is that sought-after neighbourhoods, such as Achrafieh, are seeing their mansions vanish at an accelerating rate in favour of high tower blocks. Not only is this a great loss for the city architecturally, but also in terms of its gardens, skyline, sea breeze and general aesthetics; the city's tiny streets are being suffocated. I came across the attached graffiti on the walls of an Achrafieh mansion about to be destroyed. Clearly, awareness is there, but not the laws or will by developers to preserve the old. The attached photos also show views over Achrafieh in June 2006, compared with Dec 2009 with all the modern new towers.

The travelogue: "Traditional Beiruti Architecture" shows some examples of the city's heritage.

Together!

On my first visit to Lebanon in March 2005, I had the opportunity to see the country during interesting times. Demonstrations were being held at Place des Martyrs on a daily basis in which people demanded "the truth" about the assassination of Rafic Hariri a month earlier. It was wonderful to see the Lebanese fully (or mostly?) united for the first time in decades, regardless of religion or sect (see attached photo)! At the time, Lebanon was still under the control of Syria, which was allegedly blamed - justly or not? - for the assassination of Hariri. The demonstrations ultimately led to the withdrawal of Syrian troops from Lebanon, and although everyone rejoiced, the untold reality is that the Syrian presence had helped to maintain a certain stability and a controlled peace in the country. Unfortunately, Lebanon then slowly slipped into instability which culminated in 2006 with a full on Israeli invasion, followed by a political crisis which only began to be resolved at the end of 2008. Although some tensions remain, the situation is now fortunately very peaceful (as of early 2010) and inshallah (as the Lebanese say) it will continue.

The Legend of Saint George

One of the most important saints in eastern churches, Saint George, the dragon slayer, also happens to be the patron saint of Beirut. Here and in churches around the world, he is always depicted riding a horse and fighting the dragon, which according to one local legend, occurred right here in Beirut (was it at the Bay of Saint George?). Saint George's Day is celebrated in churches on the 23rd April, both in the Middle East and in Europe, where his legend was brought back by the Crusaders. Born in Palestine, the saint is said to have been martyred around 300 AD during the time of Emperor Diocletian. His importance to the region, and to Beirut in particular, explains why there are so many churches dedicated to him in Beirut. A large mosaic depicting his fight is also proudly displayed at Place de l'Etoile next to the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Saint George.