Tips 1 - 4 of 4 Rome Off The Beaten Path
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Via Giulia is a beautiful street, almost one kilometre long, that leads from the city centre straight down to the Vatican. It was laid out in the 16th century by the famous architect Bramante on the orders of Pope Julius II, from whom the street gets its name. It is actually the longest street in Rome that is built in a straight line; to do so Bramante had to demolish many buildings that had been built along the previous (and much more crooked) street Via Magistralis. Its purpose was to accommodate the large numbers of pilgrims coming to Rome so that they could more easily reach the Vatican. Many beautiful buildings can be seen along this street; the most interesting part is the southeastern end, where you can find the Fontana del Mascherone, the church of Santa Maria in Orazione e Morte, the backside of the Palazzo Farnese (the inner courtyard is also visible from the back doorway), and the Farnese bridge with its hanging ivy.
Photo by sushimifune.
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This fountain is named the Fountain of the Big Mask, for obvious reasons. It was commissioned by the Farnese family and was sculpted by an unknown artist in 1626. The Farnese, who lived in the Palazzo Farnese just opposite the fountain (now the French embassy) were known for throwing extravagant parties in the piazza in front of their palace. On these occasions the fountain would flow not with water but with wine.
In fact, a similar tradition still takes place at the annual wine festival in Marino, a small village near Rome. The festival, called the Sagra dell'Uva, is held on the first Sunday of October. The highlight is the 'miracle' of the fountain, when the fountain in the main square of the village flows with wine, until the wine runs out. After that people start throwing grapes at each other and it turns into a big food fight.
Do take note that not only does the Fontana del Mascherone not flow with wine today, unlike most of Rome's fountains it does not even flow with potable water. There is a small sign saying 'non potabile" in Italian, but it's easy to miss. I have a feeling it comes directly from the filthy Tiber River nearby, which is pretty dangerous when so many people are used to drinking straight from the fountains.
Near the southeastern end of Via Giulia, just behind Palazzo Farnese. Photo by liamr
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One of the loveliest street scenes in Rome is the view of this bridge that crosses over Via Giulia. One end of the bridge starts within the grounds of the Palazzo Farnese, the sumptuous palace of the Farnese family that is now the French embassy. The same family also owned a winter home - the Villa Farnesina, which lies directly on the other side of the Tiber River. The Farnese commissioned Michelangelo to design a private bridge that would enable them (and only them) to cross the river from one palace to another. The bridge was never actually completed and does not span the Tiber, but the part that does exist is a beautiful addition to Via Giulia.
Photo by sushimifune.
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The name of this church translates as 'Saint Mary in Prayer and Death.' It was built in 1576 and belonged to a confraternity who took it upon themselves to give a proper burial to the poor people of Rome whose bodies were often just left out in the open to rot. To finance these burials, the confraternity depended on offerings from the faithful. The photo here is of one of the two offering collections points built into the facade of the church. The Latin writing on the banner held up by the skeleton reminds people, 'Today it is me; tomorrow it will be you.' There are other morbid decorations found in the church; skulls are rather prominent on both the interior and exterior of the building. The church is generally open only on Sunday evenings when mass is held at 6pm; you can slip in a bit earlier to get a peek at the inside, which is very small.
On the corner of Via Giulia and Via dei Farnesi. Photo by liamr.
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Comments for jungles about Rome | | | | |
jkl1111 Thu May 7, 2009 18:33 UTC I went in 2005 after attending a wedding in Siena. I also loved the Risotto alla Pescatora! As my friend & I were enjoying our limoncello, the bride's parents walked up the street! They were on their way to their "favorite restaurant in Rome," Tony's. | cpiers47 Tue Jan 15, 2008 16:39 UTC Fantastic Tips on the Forum - thanks so much for the clear explanations. I'm going to take them when me when I head back to Rome in the spring and look forward to finally "understanding" that part of the city! Grazie Mille. | marielexoteria Mon Oct 8, 2007 11:42 UTC Thank you for these tips. | Pabro Fri Mar 9, 2007 10:06 UTC These are excellent pages on Rome, accompanied by superb historical details. The photos here brought fond memories of my visit there a year ago. |
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