You just have to see #1 and other Vienna, Austria Things to Do Tips

St Stephan’s surely must take the award for the “Number One” sight in Vienna. The problem is that you are likely to gain the impression that nearly everyone in Vienna also will be visiting whenever you are there! An early start does help though.

Built in the 13th-14th centuries, St Stephan’s has had a hard time, being damaged by wars on several occasions. Most recently, it was severely damaged by fires late in WW II. That damage has long been repaired, but during our visit much of the main tower was so encased in scaffolding that I was prompted to make the unkind comment that it looked like a giant …well, never mind! Apparently the scaffolding is required for ongoing renovation work.

On your first visit, you probably will share our surprise at the extent to which the cathedral is hemmed in by other buildings, making photography very difficult. Equally, the external stonework shows the effects of centuries of soot and dust (Photos 2,3).

One of the building’s highlights is the richly decorated mosaic tiled roof. If there is a clear view of the entire south side roof from the old city area, we were unable to find it. Fortunately, a view of the northern roof with the Austrian coat of arms is possible from the Reisenrad giant ferris wheel at the Prater (Photo 4) (NB binoculars or a long telephoto are required). Another photographic hint – the late afternoon sun (heading photo) is much kinder than the morning light, and from a more suitable direction.

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Address: St.Stephens cathedral
Directions: Smack in the centre of the city.

When Pauline first saw St Stephan's, she was a little disappointed that the cluttered setting of the cathedral detracted from the impression she had gained from the TV shows. What we found inside though, more than overcame any reservations she may have had, and we returned several times during our stay.

Inside, the Gothic ceilings soared skywards, their height emphasised by white banners draped for a forthcoming musical performance (main photo); the giant pipe organ above the entrance looked most imposing and we both wished we’d been able to hear it (Photo 2); at the other end, the richly decorated High Altar, with its painting of the stoning of St Stephan, was quite ornate (Photo 3); and there was the famous pulpit, with its small stone dog at the top of the curved banister keeping back the cane toads and lizards (symbols of evil) (Photo 4) while the unknown stone sculptor with his chisel (Photo 5) peered out of his stone window. And everywhere, as can be seen in several of these photos, were the endless crowds.

Yes, St Stephan's is indeed well deserving of its popularity.

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Address: St.Stephens cathedral
Directions: Look for the busiest part of Vienna and you'll see it.

I’d doubt that many would argue about the Schonbrunn palace (well, more properly the Schloss Schonbrunn) being among the top “have to see” sights in Vienna – and the crowds seem to agree, there were seemingly thousands of people on the (week) day we visited.

During the latter part of their reign, the Schonbrunn was the main palace of the Habsburg Emperors. Construction started in 1696 and extensions and modifications continued into the 19th century. Franz Josef, the last major Emperor of the line, spent his life here and also died in the palace in 1916: after WW I, the Austrian State became a Republic and took over ownership of the palace. The palace complex is enormous, but apparently had been planned to be even larger: the Habsburgs apparently were trying to match their French relatives with the Palace of Versailles! The Schonbrunn, nonetheless, was still sufficient to be included in the World Heritage List in 1996.

In one day (all we could spare), it is impossible to see everything at the Schonbrunn, so we decided to wander the grounds rather than take a group tour through some of the lavish rooms. We were glad that we did and, fortunately, the weather improved during the day.

It’s all very imposing, from the moment you enter the main (rear?) courtyard (Photo 2 - panorama) where the fiacres, lending a nice period appearance, are dwarfed by the building (Photo 3). Now walk around to the front, facing the main gardens, pretend you are an Emperor by standing on the balcony, and be amazed by the view (Photo 4). The grounds and gardens (more photos in travelogue) are designed to complement the palace itself. It’s all on a grand scale, such as the “Roman Ruin” area (Photo 5). On the hill, the Gloriette (separate tip) dominates the skyline and provides a counterpoint across the gardens from the main palace. Somehow our backyard barbecue area now seems inadequate!

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Phone: +43 (1) 8111 3239
Address: the summer-residence of the emperor
Directions: Metro line U4 to Schonbrunn – the walk to the palace is well signposted (or just follow the crowds!).
Website: www.schoenbrunn.at/de/publicdir/

After the Schönbrunn was constructed and the gardens developed, something was needed to complete the picture. At the request of Maria Theresa, widow of Emperor Franz 1, the Gloriette and the Neptune fountain in front of it were constructed at the top of the hill in the 1770s. And the function of the Gloriette? Essentially ornamental, though it was used for dining and functions by the Emperors and now houses a café and small souvenir shop.

I’d have to say that the Gloriette succeeds very well as a counterpoint to the main palace and focal point for the end of the gardens (Main photo). Any doubts you may have about that should be dispelled by the magnetic attraction it seems to exert on the crowds visiting (yes, including us). We managed to avoid the urge to make a direct assault on it, and strolled around the grounds: but there never was any doubt about our destination!

Enroute, pass the Neptune Fountain (Photo 2) then the large water feature which gives great reflections – pity about the delivery van in Photo 3 though! Finally, you’ve reached it, and it still remains imposing (Photo 4) even from closer up. At this stage, you have a choice of the café, an outdoor refreshment area, or just head for the flat roof and take in the view (there is a small charge). We headed for the roof first (seniors discounts apply) and found quite a reasonable view of Vienna (Photo 5) then, as it was a warm day, thought about a cool drink (see “Tourist Trap”).

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Address: the summer-residence of the emperor
Directions: You will find the Gloriette at the rear of the Schonbrunn (if the area you enter is taken as the front).

I thought it something of a surprise that , proportional to the number of tourists in Vienna, the Kunsthistoriches Museum (let’s just call it KHM) seemed relatively less popular than the Louvre in Paris, although there are distinct parallels. Both house stunning collections of art, both have great displays of Egyptian, Greek and Roman antiquities. OK, the KHM isn’t as large and hasn’t featured in any well-known stories, but it is up there with the best and certainly deserves to feature on the “must visit” list of all visitors to Vienna.

Not only are the collections stunning, so is the building itself (and, no doubt, also the matching Naturhistorisches Museum facing it across the park). Both opened in 1891, but it is the KHM which now draws the attention. It was raining when we visited, so we didn’t linger to admire the outside façade and details (main photo). Step inside though, and be amazed at the richness of the marble columns and the painted ceiling in the central atrium area (vertical panorama, photo 2) with its ‘trompe d’oeil’ effect. Then stroll through the Egyptian antiquities section on the ground floor (photo 3) and you’ll be overwhelmed. That feeling continues as you visit the Roman antiquities collection. As enthusiastic collectors, the Hapsburgs also gathered a vast array of carved ivory: the quality of some of the work is ethereal (photo 4), though I must admit being quite uncomfortable about the slaughter of wildlife necessary to have produced it. Finally, the art collection is world famous, and justly so, with a huge array of works by Rembrandt, Raphael, Caravaggio, Bruegel, Van Dyck… and on it goes! (photo 5). What’s more, apart from a ban on using flash or tripods, there is no restriction on photography – our Australian galleries might well care to take note!

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Phone: +43.1.52.24-4025
Address: Maria theresien-Platz, Ringstrasse
Directions: On the Ringstrasse in the Museum Quarter
Website: www.khm.at/
Other Contact: info@khm.at

This was the main palace complex of the Habsburgs for over six hundred years – with endless new additions as each new Emperor took office. Not hard to imagine that it grew substantially over that period!

Now that Austria is a Republic, the buildings have found other uses. Some, such as the Kaiserappartements, where Emperor Franz Josef 1 and Empress Elisabeth (Sissi) lived, are furnished as original and are open for public inspection. Another part houses the offices of the President of Austria. Then there are museums and galleries, not to mention the stables for the famous Spanish horses.

The main photo shows the façade of the building complex, as seen from Michaelerplatz. If it looks somewhat empty, that’s because the crowds were being kept back by a very substantial police presence during the visit of an “eminent overseas statesperson” . Eventually a convoy of black limousines appeared and the serious business of tourism resumed! Our time limit precluded poking around the various buildings in the Hofburg complex – but you could spend quite some time here if you wished!

Main photo: An unusually quiet Michaelerplatz, outside the Hofburg
Second photo:Departing dignitary’s convoy.
Third photo:The crowds return to Michaelerplatz (panorama).
Fourth photo:The Spanish horses in their stables.

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Address: The winter palace of the emperor
Directions: Spreading through quite a bit of Central Vienna !

Strictly speaking, this 14th century church is part of the Hofburg complex. Originally Gothic, it was converted to Baroque then rebuilt as Gothic – now I’d describe it as Gothic with Baroque touches! Some great chandeliers and a pipe organ I’d love to hear playing (main, second photos). Actually, it seems that, apart from church services, there are regular concerts.

Long before the days or organ donation, it was apparently the fashion with various European royal families to bury various pieces of the 'Dear Departed' in different places. And so it was with the Habsburgs, whose hearts were buried in the Augustinerkirche, though there are some tombs here (the main funeral crypt was in the Kapuzinerkirche at the Neuer Markt ). (3rd photo)

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Address: Not surprisingly, in the Augustinerstrasse
Directions: Down the side of the Hofburg, to the left from Michaelerplatz
Website: http://www.sacred-destinations.com/austria/vienna-augustinerkirche.htm

As you wander around the Ringstrasse from the Kunsthistorisches Museum to the Rathaus, you’ll pass the Austrian Parliament building. The columned façade is very much “Ancient Greece meets Baroque” and the overall effect is very impressive (second photo). I’m sure there is a substantial security presence somewhere, but from outside it certainly was not obvious – unlike the French Parliament which has what seem to be permanent mesh barricades!

Most of all, while you are here, you’re certain to be struck by the superb statue of Pallas Athenas, the Greek Goddess of Heroic Endeavour. When we visited, it seemed the gilding on her helmet and accoutrements really gleamed (main photo). This is listed in our guidebook as a fountain, but there wasn’t any watery stuff splashing around when we visited – great statue though!

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Address: the buildings of the famous boulevard
Directions: Between the Kunsthistorisches Museum and the Rathaus.
Website: www.parlinkom.gv.at (link to English left of page, partway down)

We first saw the Rathaus from the city area, bright against a blue sky. It looked impressive, and the sight confirmed that it deserved to be on our list of things to do. Unfortunately, when we visited a few days later, the weather was bleak with light drizzle, and the light dull and flat.

Believe it or not, the Gothic-styled Rathaus is the Viennese version of the City Hall! Built in the late 1800s, the interior apparently is equally impressive, but we visited on a weekend when it was closed – on weekdays it is not only open, but there are guided tours (in German only).

Part of the reason I wished to visit was to try re-creating a photo from the film The Third Man: I did that (see “General” tips), but i also soon found that this is just a great photographic venue! Obviously, the photographic team further down under the arches and taking just THE shot of a bridal couple knew that already. Across the way was the Hofburg Theatre. Go along with your cameras and find out for yourselves!

Main photo: Wedding photos under the arches
Second photo: Rathaus gleaming on a sunny day
Third photo: Toward the Votive Church
Fourth photo: Toward the Hofburg Theatre
Fifth photo: Profile from the Ringstrasse.

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Address: Rathausplatz
Directions: Head around the Ringstrasse from the Kunsthistorisches Museum, past the Parliament, and you'll see the Rathaus across the Rathaus Park - it's over 100M high, so it's hard to miss!

Continuing around the Ringstrasse just a little further from the Rathaus, you’ll find another impressive Gothic building. It looks the part of something from the 1300s, with its gargoyles, flying buttresses, arches, stained glass windows and all – but it’s actually from the late 1800s and was designed by the same Heinrich Von Ferstel who designed the Palais Ferstel (separate tip).

Going by the number of assassinations attempts, successful and unsuccessful, over the years, it seems that being a member of Habsburg royalty was a risky business! The failure of an attempted assassination of Franz Josef 1 in 1853 led to the construction of this superb cathedral, as an act of thanksgiving.

We visited on a rainy weekend day and the interior appeared to be closed for maintenance – certainly cleaning and maintenance was very much in evidence, going by the scaffolding and by the contrast in cleaned/uncleaned sections of stonework (as may be seen in the photos). As a personal opinion, the exterior appealed to me more than St Stephan’s, mainly because of the uniform styling – though my guidebook suggests the interior is vast and empty, so that may have been a disappointment.

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Address: the buildings of the famous boulevard
Directions: Continuing from the Kunsthistorisches Museum, past the Rathaus, and there it is!