Captains Flat Things to Do Tips by tiabunna

With the closure of the mine, the Captains Flat railway also closed in 1968. But there was one last hurrah – twelve months later, the very last train steamed along the line as part of the film Ned Kelly and a cardboard “Glenrowan” was built alongside the tracks at The Flat. From all accounts the film (featuring an unlikely Mick Jagger as Ned Kelly) is rather dire, but you’d have to salute the choice of locale! As you drive from Canberra and Queanbeyan, shortly after passing the old buildings of Foxlow Station (nearly obscured by trees planted long ago) you will notice the railway not far away to the left of the road. After this point you also will notice the countryside changing and the hills closing in.

The former railway surely must have been one of the more scenic lines as it weaved and meandered through the countryside – though somehow I suspect few saw its scenic appeal as it mainly carried freight and bulk ore! Passenger services ceased in 1960. From time to time there have been suggestions of using the former railway for a cycle trail, but that seems unlikely as much of it has reverted to farmland and would need to be resumed. Still, this is something to ponder as you drive toward ‘The Flat’, watching for the railway to re-emerge from time to time.

The railway eventually terminated at a station to the right of the road (now a private residence), just before you take a hairpin turn from the former mine site and follow around the tailings heaps (separate tip) before crossing the Molonglo River. Cross the river, turn right into Foxlow Street and there you are – in the main street at about GoogleEarth position 35.5885 S 149.4474 E! The War Memorial is immediately to your right on the corner.

Main photo:The last train is long gone!
Second photo:Railway to the town (in drought)
Third photo:Remains of railway weighbridge
Fourth photo:Heritage Trail sign with old photos.

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Directions: Travelling from Canberra/Queanbeyan, take the Kings Highway toward the coast, then turn right onto Captains Flat Road about 2km outside the 60km speed limit.

Whichever way you reach ‘The Flat’, you will pass along Foxlow Street, the main street through the town. You will find the Miner’s Memorial in Wilkins Park opposite the fire station. It was dedicated to the former miners and their families in 2000, and features the original jenny wheel (the main wheel above the mine shaft) from the second Lake George Mine, with historic photos of the town and of the old mine workings. As memorials go, I find it more appealing and relevant than most.

The memorial features copper plaques showing mining scenes from the town and a listing of the miners lost here in the course of their hard and dangerous work. Actually, it must have been a tough life here for everyone in the old days, with a climate which can be quite cold in winter, the dust, and the sulphurous fumes from the smelters.

Near the Memorial, you will find public barbecues, toilets and ample parking. It is an ideal spot to have a relaxing lunch and to begin your tour of the town. With luck, you may find some brochures about the town in the holder on the main Heritage Trail sign – these will guide you along the Heritage Trail: ask at any of the businesses in the town if none are there.

Main photo:Miners’ Memorial
Second photo:Wheel at top of Miners’ Memorial
Third photo:General view, with Memorial and BBQs in the park.

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Address: Foxlow Street
Directions: From the previous tip, continue along past the shop. Not far beyond, where Foxlow Street bends before crossing a little wooden bridge across the Molonglo River.

The good folk of the Captains Flat Community Association have created a Heritage Trail around the little town, taking in the main buildings and also the old mine workings. While the old buildings are interesting and, indeed, are some excellent examples of period architecture, the mine and its derelict workings will always be the main focus of interest. Although it is possible to walk the town, I think most would find driving the most convenient to tour the old mine areas.

You can pick up a copy of fact sheets and the Heritage Trail brochure from businesses around ‘The Flat’, as well as from the holders on the Heritage Trail sign. Fortunately the Community Association in ‘The Flat’ is not only active, but also right up-to-date with technology. They have an excellent website (see below) where you can not only learn more about the township but even download the Heritage Trail brochure before you make your visit. Maybe that’s not a bad idea, then you can be sure you’ll have one!

Main photo:Heritage Trail sign and brochure holder
Second photo:Heritage Trail brochure
Third photo:Heritage Trail information with old photos
Fourth photo:The directions are well signposted.

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Directions: The Heritage Trail signboard is near the Miners' Memorial.
Website: http://www.captainsflat.org/index.html

From the mine reopening in 1937 until it closed in 1962, the Lake George Mine produced substantial amounts of zinc, lead, copper, silver and gold, from over four million tonnes of ore. I estimate that the minerals extracted, on current (2007) values, would be worth over $2 billion US dollars.

Most of the old mine buildings were removed when the mine closed, but the workings are still very much in evidence – and probably will be for far into the future, because nothing much will grow in the exposed rock areas. The Heritage Trail takes you through the old mine areas and there is a lookout at the top of the hill near the original mine head, giving excellent views of the town and the area.

Main photo:The entry to the former mine
Second photo:Where the minehead stood for the mine
Third photo:Heritage Trail sign with old photo of mine entry.
Fourth photo:View from the lookout area across the town

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Directions: Just follow the Heritage Trail information!

When the mine operated, tailings heaps containing millions of tons of rock were left behind – near the road, these tailings heaps were over 40 metres high! Needless to say, they were unstable and leaching minerals. Consequently, the Molonglo River was a polluted aquatic desert downstream as far as Canberra, where it entered the new Lake Burley Griffin as the centrepiece of the National Capital. And that was what really focussed the need to do something about the environmental situation! The tailings heaps were stabilised at Government expense and the worst of the environmental problems were remedied. The first photo shows the tailings area to the north of the town, with green grass following recent rains, while the second shows the same area some years ago on a Heritage Trail sign.

I heard not too long ago that fish have now been found in the river not too far downstream, so the environmental situation certainly has improved though minerals continue to leach from the rocks, as seen in the final photo.

Main photo:Looking north across the old mine area to former tailings heaps
Second photo:The same view in days gone, from a Heritage Trail sign
Third photo:Driving past the tailings heaps on the way into town
Fourth photo:Stabilised tailings heaps to the south of the town, from the original 1880-90 period
Fifth photo:Water still draining from old workings

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Directions: Follow the Heritage Trail directions.

Australians will remember our former Prime Minister Keating, who famously made a comment about “…the recession we had to have”. The main photo for this tip shows ‘Keating’s Collapse’, which has nothing to do with the Prime Minister, but rather shows the recession left in the ground when one of the major mine shafts completely collapsed in 1961, taking large areas of hillside down with it.

In this case, the name Keating comes from the designation of the mineral band on which the mine shaft was centred. Fortunately the collapse happened late at night when no shifts were working, and there were no serious injuries. This seems a good point to mention that the mine shafts went down to a depth of something like half a mile/2600 ft (metrics weren’t around when the mine operated).

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It isn’t very often that I feature a place in two different ‘tips’ categories, but ‘The Outsider’ definitely is a deserving exception.

Gunther Deix is an interesting bloke. The brochure for his gallery says that he “is overtly eccentric”, and that’s probably a fair comment – suffice to say I suspect he’d have been at home in San Francisco about 1970! He, and his partner Christine, have transformed two old buildings, one from each period of the mine’s operations, into a very different gallery which combines with a coffee lounge/restaurant (separate tip). Between the two buildings is a pleasant open courtyard (heated in winter) which has more artworks. There’s nothing subtle about the overall colour scheme, it’s mainly purple!

Perhaps the best way to describe Gunther’s art is to say that it’s highly personal and individual in style. It ranges from etchings to paintings in a range of materials, and to assemblages and sculpture. The walls of the restaurant and gallery are covered in art, it even covers the ceilings in the mezzanine above the restaurant area. Paintings range from simple sketches to heavily built-up impasto works. Many feature nature themes and many more involve figures. While many are allegorical, others, I must say, are quite disturbing. Without question, you’ll find yourself drawn into Gunther’s world!

Open Friday to Sunday and public holidays, 0900 – 1700 (and Friday and Saturday evenings on reservations only).

Main photo:The Outsider Café and Gallery
Second photo:Gunter “mine host’ and some artwork behind
Third photo:Interior of Outsider Café: artworks and heavy duty heater
Fourth photo:Mosaic on the floor of the second “gallery” building
Fifth photo:Facade of the ‘Outsider’

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Phone: (02) 6236 6160
Address: 86 Foxlow Street, Captains Flat NSW 2623
Directions: Opposite the Captains Flat pub.
Website: http://www.outsidercafe.netfirms.com/

The Captains Flat hotel was opened in 1938 when the mine was newly reopened and, I guess, the possibilities for the town seemed endless. So it seems to have been made for a substantial population. When it was built, it was claimed to have the longest bar in the Southern Hemisphere (that title now rests in Mildura) at over 31 metres.

The pub is typical of many urban pubs erected in that period and there have been suggestions that it would have been far more at home in Bondi, Sydney! One standard feature of this building style is the tiled façade at street level, seen well in the second photo.

I have never inspected the rooms, so don’t feel that I can realistically give an accommodation tip, but this is the main accommodation house in The Flat. The fitout of the 20 guest rooms apparently is in ‘period’ 1940s style.

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Phone: 6236 6201
Directions: It's the largest building in town - you can't miss it!

If you cast back my ‘Intro’ page, you will remember that the town had an initial main period of growth in the 1880s-90s. Consequently, the main ‘official’ buildings date from that period. Here are some of the public buildings.

You’ll find the former Post Office (now a residence) just near the pub. It dates from 1898 and is an excellent example of the type of building being erected in many country areas at the time. Oh, if you wish to post something now, the new Post Office is in the shop.

From all accounts, back in the 1800s, The Flat was a roaring frontier town, so there was a need for a police station and court house. I don’t know what became of the police station from that period but the court house, built in 1896, is now the police station. It’s no surprise that, over the years when the town boomed, there were complaints about the size of the court!

In the pre-TV days, there was a need for some kind of entertainment in the town, so the mining company built a 400 seat theatre in the 1950s. After the demise of the mines and subsequent drop in population, it was converted to a community hall in 1975.

Main photo:Former Post Office, now a private residence
Second photo:Court house, now the police station
Third photo:Community hall, formerly a theatre
Fourth photo:View from the mines area,showing the community hall (rounded rear section) and the back of the hotel.

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