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Galicia is the most north-westerly region of Spain, with a beautiful, rugged coastline beaten by Atlantic winds, rural and fishing communities where time has stood still, wonderful food, folk music... This is not just Celtic but Gaelic Spain and it feels it. Mist rolls in from the sea, the weather is rainy and the land green, the bagpipes are the national instrument and people believe in witches, fairies and the Santo Compana, a procession of souls in torment led by an unfortunate mortal which is the harbinger of death.

I had been to the Galicia area of Spain last July and fell in love with it's people, the food, the wine and the whole peacefulness of the place. I returned to Spain in September and spent 17 wonderful days there which was way too short.

My friend and I stayed mainly in the Nigran area but took many side trips to Santiago de Compostela, Finisterre, Muros, Noia, Carnota, Padron, Baiona, Vigo, A Guarda, Tui, and Valenca, Portugal. We saw many beautiful places, ate some of the worlds best seafood and drank way too much vino. Life is good...

The second small, but distinctive Galician landmark, is the "cruceiros", or small stone crosses on long slender shafts. They can be found in a town or city's central plaza or at some random point on a highway, usually a cross roads.

The exact history of the "cruceiro" is uncertain, but they can be used to mark a significant social or religious area such as a square, be a memorial to an event or person, or indicate a path or street. Historically, the oldest cruceiros are said to date back to the 14th century and have continued to be built into the 20th century. It is impossible to spend any time in Galicia without seeing them.

Grapes ready for the picking...

Tetilla Cheese on display in Santiago de Compostela. It is the most characteristic cheese of Galicia with its creamy, smooth taste.

What do the murmurs say
of the coasts growing green once more
under the lucid glimmer
of the soft moonlight?

What do the tree tops say
of the dark bristly pine needle
with its well measured
sombre groaning?

- "Of your verdant surroundings
and your gracious heavenly bodies,
limit of the green castros
and precious soil....
Do not ever forget
the injustice of coarse grudging,
wake up from your dream,
home of Breogán."